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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:28 am 
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Got the new motor and trans in and it runs excellent, want to check the timing and I am not sure I am doing it correctly.

I hooked the timing light to the no 1 plug wire which I believe is the plug closest to the front of the engine. Remove the vacuum advance hose from the distributor and rotate the distributor to the correct timing. Am I forgetting something???? When removing the vacuum advance hose should the motor pick up or drop RPMs. When removing mine the idle stays the same. I have a weber carb with all the smog stuff removed.

Any help appreciated
Thanks again


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 12:20 pm 
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Make sure that when you remove the vacuum hose from the distributor, that you plug it off to prevent a vacuum leak from effecting your timing setting, and just do it to it.

Make sure your points are set right, and your plugs are gapped correctly first though.

Your idle should be at about 800-900 rpm's...and your fuel/air mix should be set correctly, and that's about it.

To set your fuel/air mix...just turn in the mix screw carefully(make sure you don't turn it all the way in tight and "bottom it out") untill the engine starts running rough, then turn it back out counting the turns untill it runs rough again. The median point (half the total turns between the two) is the proper setting for your truck.

Good luck and have fun with your truck!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:47 pm 
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If ya realy wanna git-r-done, order a Pertronix Ignitor to match your distributer type. then you can yank and toss the points, condenser and vac advance.Then set your timing once and for all.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:00 pm 
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79 Luvr, I actually have one but am scared to try and put it in. Can you get it in wrong, 180 degrees out?????


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:33 pm 
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newluv wrote:
79 Luvr, I actually have one but am scared to try and put it in. Can you get it in wrong, 180 degrees out?????


Didn't have a problem with mine, and I actualy had to modify the baseplate a litte, so it isn't sitting exactly where the points used to be. I did have to rotate the dizzy about an inch or 2 counterclockwise from "normal", purrs like a kitten now.

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 Post subject: Pertronix
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:32 pm 
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Here's a link to a well documented installation, not a LUV but the guy took some good pics along the way.
http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Pertronix_Into_TD.html

And he has a good article on static timing the Pertronix after install.
http://www.ttalk.info/PertronixStaticNeg.htm

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:49 pm 
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One thing I did notice about his installation kit, was it called for replacing the points plate alltogether, something I started to do with my install.

It only dawned on me after I "milled" out a new one from some sheet aluminum I had laying around(luck me it was the same thickness). The kit I have seems to have been intended to mount onto the points plate, I guess due to the fact that the Nppondenso dizzy has the vac advance(which is currently disconnected and irrelevent now)... So after reading his article, I think I will go back and fab out a plate to totaly replace the stock plate, and keep the points mounted to the actual points plate it and keep in my truck toolbox for future "in case of emergency" use.

As to your original question about "messing up and installing it 180* out", I'm not even sure that's possible, I do know from what I've read and from my own install, that the timing will be advanced a bit once your finished. Mine was advanced enough to make the engine run realy rough, but I simply retarded it a few degrees(counter clock wise) until it smoothed out.

Good luck with your install, I'd say go for it. The tech guys at Pertronix are there too, and very helpful.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:30 pm 
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I have found these trucks run allot better running about 12* advance as opposed to the 8* that the specs recomend.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:42 pm 
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MEPR wrote:
I have found these trucks run allot better running about 12* advance as opposed to the 8* that the specs recomend.


Ditto....and pfft on the 900rpm, only if ya like sputtering and weakness. Unless you have a new pristine engine.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:49 pm 
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My 77 always seemed happiest around 12-14 but my 79 rattled like a marble in an empty paintcan at anything over 10. The only difference was the lack of an EGR valve on the 79. If you have a header with no EGR port you may have to stay closer to the stock timing.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:26 pm 
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My series 8 manual says 6 degrees at 900 rpm, which is what I set mine at and it runs very well even with an 80's electronic distributor and weber manual chock carb.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:33 pm 
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MEPR wrote:
I have found these trucks run allot better running about 12* advance as opposed to the 8* that the specs recomend.

Dont you have a delta cam in yours?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:35 am 
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I set it at 6 degrees, 8 degrees, 10 degrees then 12 degrees, driving it each time, seems like it runs stronger at the 10 to 12 degrees. The guy I bought the Luv from had the pertronix ignition transfer and an electronic ignition distributor that he had not yet installed, not sure why he had both. It seems like it is running awesome without them but if I get a bug I might try one of them. The former owner had put a weber on and couldnt get it to run right, I figured out that the mounting plates to the manifold had loosened up. Anyway she is running strong and thanks for all the help. I bought this thing for my son and I like driving and working on it so much I am thinking about getting another one.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 12:22 am 
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newluv wrote:
The former owner had put a weber on and couldnt get it to run right, I figured out that the mounting plates to the manifold had loosened up

Even with Loktite it took mine all of 2 months to work loose enuff to be suking air & running like poo but a few twists of the wrench made it 8) .


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:00 am 
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newluv wrote:
Got the new motor and trans in and it runs excellent, want to check the timing and I am not sure I am doing it correctly.

I hooked the timing light to the no 1 plug wire which I believe is the plug closest to the front of the engine...


My motor seems to have the #1 cylinder at the rear (closest to the firewall)...is something put together wrong?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:33 pm 
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Do you have a 80's electronic distributor in it . If you to I think the #1 mark on the cap is #4 spark plug and the#4 mark on the cap is #1 spark plug.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:33 am 
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Ok..I'll try to make this as simple as I can...so please pay attention.

The standard firing order for a Luv is 1-3-4-2. The distributor always turns counter-clockwise. And most every cap has the #1 plug wire marked. The #1 plug is always front (closest to the radiator). So if you have #4 (farthest from the radiator) plug wire in the hole in your cap where #1 should be, then your plug wires are off 2 wire holes on your cap.

Now you can do 1 of 2 things...you can leave well enough alone and follow the old "if it ain't broke - then don't fix it" method...or you can move your plug wires to where they belong, loosen up your distributor and turn it to match the new location of your wires, and then use a timing light to re-set your timing.

Your choice.


Last edited by tumwatertaz on Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 7:55 am 
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I thought the firing order was 1342 :!: :?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:40 am 
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newluv wrote:
I bought this thing for my son and I like driving and working on it so much I am thinking about getting another one.


:D That's what I did. Then my 2nd LUV was for my other son. So now I just steal one and go for a ride when they aren't looking.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:06 pm 
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Quote:
I thought the firing order was 1342


:oops: Doh!! I fixed it...thanks for the assist. It must have been the beers I drank last night...lol


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