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 Post subject: auto to a manual
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 10:36 am 
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Location: Joplin Missouri
i had my th200 rebuilt about 7000 miles ago and it took a shit on me last night on my way back to work

i have a nonrunnigh 76 luv with a four speed manual trans in it and i am going to swap the auto out for the manual

i will in time be selling the automatic as well as the works that go with the pile of shit

also has anyone ever swapped to a manual and if so was it a very hard swap pointers etc. are nice

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:45 am 
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also i need a manual trans flywheel post how much you want for it

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:33 pm 
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Im assuming that the bracketry for the clutch pedal is installed on all LUV cabs. You'll need a clutch pedal for sure. Now for 76, the clutch mechanism was a hydraulic unit. If you plan to keep the truck true to the year make, you'll need to get the master and slave cylinders along with hyrdaulic line. Mounting the cylinders should be easy. The slave cylinder should mount directly to the bell housing of the manual trans (if i remember correctly).
This might be the smoothest way of building the system. Fabricating a cable / linkage setup could be a real hassle with less than stellar results. The hydraulic system would be more of a "bolt the parts on" mod.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:12 pm 
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i got the clutch pedal what is the master cylinder and what is the slave clylinder i have never messed with a manual before can you take pics please and post them


what cable linkage are you talking about

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:48 pm 
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72 thru 77 LUV trucks came with a hydraulic clutch. Think of it as a small brake system. There's a little master cylinder on the firewall that the clutch pedal works. And there's a wheel cylinder looking thing that works the clutch arm on the trans. 78 thru 82 LUV models came with a cable operated clutch. 78 was also the first year of the newer engine.
There was no linkage assy clutches for LUV trucks. When i referenced a cable / linkage, I meant to say cable or linkage. Later engine LUVs were designed to have a cable clutch. Building a custom linkage type clutch or a cable type clutch for an early LUV seems to be more hassle.
Now i need to ask if the motor is original to the truck? Does it look like this?
Image

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:59 pm 
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Here's a pic i found in the gallery. Next to the brake booster in the corner just aft of the fuse block, you can see a clutch cylinder on the firewall. The slave cylinder bolt to the side of the trans (passenger side).
Image

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:13 pm 
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hey if you need these parts i have them. i have the slave cylinder, and master cylinder. and all the lines so if youw ant them just pm me


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:41 pm 
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the motor i have is the stock 1.8 litre g180 motor what all is involved with the hydraulic clutch and does it really make all that big of a difference when shifting all it does is just make the clutch drop quick right

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:43 pm 
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1976 was the first year of the new engine i have both a hydro tranny and a cable clutch which one should i put in

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:54 pm 
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Having a clutch makes it easier to shift and is mandatory to get going from a dead stop. The hydraulic clutch system is very smooth and it's used by a number of companies.
Im still not clear of what you have to start with. You say you have a 76 manual trans.
If the starter opening on the trans matches the motor (passenger side), then it will work with a cable clutch assy.
If the starter is on the drivers side (motor and trans), you'll need to go with a hydraulic system.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 4:05 pm 
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i have a 78 that i am doing the swap on i have a hydro clutch and a cable clutch trans to my use i just have to choose and i am going with a cable clutch because it is a 78 i still need a flywheel to what else do i need will i need a different driveshaft to

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:10 pm 
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A driveshaft and a hole cut in the trans hump for the shifter. Wiring for the switches should be easy.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:10 pm 
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I'm going to sum up what you've got, just to be sure its all right.

You have a 78 truck with a dead auto trans. You have your choice of a manual trans from a 76 (hydro clutch) or one setup for a cable clutch from a 78 or newer.

Sounds like you are on the right track, go with the trans setup for the cable clutch. The coversion for a 78 to run a hydro clutch setup is ugly. You have to swap the pedal hanger and cut a hole in the firewall in exactly the right place to mount the master cylinder. So here is the parts list you'll need to convert, as I recall it at least:

Clutch pedal
Brake pedal (auto trans has the fat pedal, gets in way of clutch)
Clutch cable assembly
Trans that is setup for cable clutch (fork comes out driver's side)
Shifter boot
Driveline (might have to check this, but on my 77 the yoke spline count was different)
Flywheel
Clutch and pressure plate

There are some wiring things to mess with, but none of it is absolutely vital to making it go. The reverse lights should wire up without trouble, but the auto trans carb won't have all the hookups for the coasting richer system as I recall.

I recommend keeping the console from the auto shifter. Not the whole thing, but the plastic that goes over it. You need to bend a bit of sheetmetal into a bracket to hold up the part towards the firewall, just use the auto shifter as a model. Without it, you see the ragged ends of the carpet where it was cut out for the auto shifter to sit. It looks pretty nice with the console there, and you get to keep the cubby hole for tossing change into.

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77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:11 pm 
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Oh yeah, the hole in the hump for the shifter is already there, auto trans shifter hangs down through it.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:53 am 
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thanks everyone for the help i am definetly on the right track now thanks

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