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 Post subject: GOING TO BE A VW OWNER.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:54 pm 
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LUVTruck.com's Cornholio
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Location: Caldwell, Idaho
Thats right I am getting a '73 Super Beetle. 8) I am traiding it straight across for my pos Cavaler.

The bug is a pretty good shape car. Everythings there, lowered 3'' all around, 15'' polished aluminum wheels, a kick ass exauhst system, and its the 1600cc engine. And it runs strong, faster then my luv, and it runs like a top. Little rust one one part of the car, and the front seats are a little tattered, and a couple little things here and there.

Hopefully it'll lower my insurance, and get me really good gas milage. From what I am told 45mpg?!

So anyways I have another question about there reliability. I have heard they arnt. Are they just like every other old car or is there certian things that always mess up. How do they start in the winter? How good are the heaters, defrosts?? How about driving in the rain or at dark?

It seems to me form what I noticed about this that it seems like it wont turn out to be a lemon but i dont know..

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:34 pm
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Location: Caldwell ID
the heaters suck . all the 1s iv drover in the winter.
thay are a fun car to drive. starts ok in winter.
good luck

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:33 pm 
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Location: Whittier, (So). Cal.
GOING TO BE A VW OWNER.


I'm sorry. :lol:

don't worry about if they are any good or not, you'll brake it in no time. Remember, your the king of brake downs! :D

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer? 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:38 am 
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Location: Hermiston,Oregon
I had one like you are getting i had no problems with it ,36 mpg, had big tire on the rear, as for the heater you get used to driving agear lower around town to keep the engine rpm's up to blow max air.They are reliable cars, as long as you keep them serviced,plus all the blings for them are still CHEAP :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 9:07 am 
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Location: Camarillo, CA
I worked as a mechanic at a VW dealership for several years. I should be able to answer most of your questions.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:01 am 
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Location: North Mississippi
There is a really good book on ebay from time to time... how to rebuild a vw motor or something to that effect. It is much better than the haynes or chiltons manuals.

I had my Ghia motor out, tore down and put back together, and back in in no time, reading that book.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 2:40 pm 
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Location: Havre, MT
if it has the factory mechanical fuel pump. replace it! they leak and catch fire. it's not fun.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:04 pm 
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The fuel pumps are not the problem. The problem is most people put the fuel filter between the pump and carb, on the high pressure side. The correct location is to put the filter down by the trans about 6 inches from the hard fuel line coming through the frame head. Also remember to use the german fuel line, SAE is too loose.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:12 pm 
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Absolutely correct :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:23 pm 
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well i got the car 3 hours ago. It is a really fun ride. But as soon as the choke kicks all the way off it dies. I think the carb needs to be removed and cleaned up. Or is it someting else? Probably just the idle circuit is plugged or something.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:52 pm 
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Is it a 34 pict 3 carb?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:25 am 
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Location: Caldwell, Idaho
No idea. This whole entire volkswagon thing is all new to me. It says solex on the side. :?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:36 am 
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well i did some research on google and I guess it is a 34 pict 3 carb. http://www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm I am going to do these adjustments to see if it helps

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 11:42 am 
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What that article does not show is that on the Gen or alt side of the carb is a Idle air jet. Most of the time people over tighten that into it's bore too much. If you crack it while the car is running and it idles, pull the jet out and "peen" the threads so you can reinstall it and it is tight before it mashes in to far.

Also the idle cut off valve likes to cause allot of problems. It is really a "anti dieseling valve". Get rid of the elec. wire to it, pull the valve and take a pair of side cutters and cut the plunger off.

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Last edited by Luvrv8 on Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:39 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
What that article does not show is that on the Gen or alt side of the carb is a Idle air jet.


I thought the only adjustment thing on the alternator side was the accelerator pump adjuster. It says that the idle mixture screw was under the idle speed screw.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 2:16 pm 
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It is not a adjustment, it is a air jet, much like a main fuel jet.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:37 pm 
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oh i get what u r sayin.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:39 pm 
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Oh and a question about a VW book. What is the name of that one service manual were the guy is lookin in the front of a beetle for the engine. Is it like Beetles for Idiots or something like that?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:57 pm 
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The book is called "everything you need to know to keep your volkswagen alive". If I remember correctly a customer told me the carb section went like this..."remove the carb, put it in a box, take it to a professional".

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:22 pm 
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Location: Texas
I know this is an old thread, but congrats. I love my bug, and have owned tons of VW's. Common myth: Volkswagens are reliable. They are what I would consider a high maintenance vehicle. And I am lucky if I get 25mpg out of mine.

Good luck!

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