LUVTruck.com

Sounds like alot of work but the results seem worth it. http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Dead link...

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

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FIAA: Color Guard

Needed to add .com but a cool link.

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'75 body with '82 diesel running gear
My build thread.

Here's the original article...

Didn't the pics he linked, but the comments by those who did were encouraging.

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here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... ture10.jpg
the car before:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... 000475.jpg
another after pic:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... C00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... C00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... cture1.jpg

here's a few pics of the charger done:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... C02764.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... C02769.jpg

well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy .

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FIAA: Color Guard

And that is why paint jobs are so expensive, that guy did all the prep work himself, bodywork, sanding, taping, buffing are the very labor intensive parts and most of the cost of a paint job like you said, spraying the paint is the easy part. So why use a cheap paint after you spent all that work??? If someone is charging you $4000 for a paint job like that corvair has, well he needs to put down the crack pipe.
When I did this, I spent around $500 for materials, and that is 4 colors,5 counting the clear.

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Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

Even more info, hope you like reading

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... vc=1&nt=20

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FIAA: Color Guard

I can guarantee you without hardner in the paint like rustoleum it will dull out in a matter of time. I love rustoleum paint but the sun will eventually take it's toll.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Thats what buffers, compounds/polishes are for. I had a 72 Chevy with original paint that I had to polish twice a year.

Well sure materials would ONLY be $500-$600 BUT how about a compressor, spray gun, mask and a space that you dont mind having over spray all over? You guys seem to have missed the point. I found this article on a rat rod site where most of the cars dont even have paint on them. Its about not having hundreds of dollars at your disposal or worrying about impressing people or showing the car.

You are exactly right. I too missed the point. If I wanted a decent looking ride I think it would be a great way to do it. At least it would be painted and be decent looking. I think i would even be inclined to use a wagner power roller.
Van Sickle implement paint would also be a good paint ti use.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

fixed link and images in above posts.

Ok, been reading now for a solid couple hours, looks like this may worth a shot. I get bored, and have lotsa time in the hunting off-season anyway. My tailgate is probably the worst looking part on my truck, so I think I will gather some materials and see what happens.

Will post progress of course.

Hell. I'll try anything once.

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FIAA: Color Guard

before you start i would get some rust reformer spray or brush on and use it first. You can get it at walmart. Let it set up then go for the rustoleum or van sickle from orshlens. The tractor implement paint a which in my opinion is a little better. If you really want to go all out get a quart of auto hardner and mix it with it per instructions. I used 2 oz of hardner to 16 oz of paint unmixed.
Good luck and let us see it. My frame i did still looks great.
Also I have an old tailgate I might try it on just for the hell of it since I aint gonna use it and it has a lot of surface rust on it/

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-4mos.html

4 months later..

BTW.. the photobucket links have a bandwidth exceeded message... use this link to see the other cars the other guy has painted this way.

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/?

I have done this with a lowboy trailer and it came out remarkably good . It will only last a couple of years if kept outside . I also had a Dodge truck I painted camo with Jon boat paint . It came out pretty nice . I am lucky enough that there is a low cost paint and body shop local that paints cars for $599 with a 2 year warranty .

Ok

I started in this eve on a test piece, it is the steel box I have in the bed to use as a toolbox. Old box I had when I ETS'd from the Army years ago, has had it's share of wear and tear... worse than I have seen any car finish, which is partialy why I decided to use it for testing.

Started by cleaning it thorougly with acetone first then odorless mineral spirits, sanded with 400, the wiped again with m/s, dried it well with, <ahem> my leaf blower .

Next I poured about 4 oz of safety red paint into a Tupperware type bowl added about 24ml m/s, stir for about 10 minutes(do not shake), after stiring seemed to me like it was still a little thick as described on the original forum this technique came fom, so I added just a touch more....more stirring.

Once it seemed just right I poured the mix into a small paint pan made for the 4" hd foam rollers picked up at Home Depot. Decided to dive in and get to rolling, went on fast ad easy, I did notice the immediate appearance of hundreds of tiny bubles produced from the foam roller, but as per the instructions, simply blew on them, in about the same manner you would blow out birthday candles... poof, the bubbles popped and the paint leveled out nicely.

I am takng pics along the way and will eventualy come back to edit this post with updates and final results. Along the way I will begin to do some remaining rust removal on the truck and hope to be ready to dive into it before it starts getting too hot here.

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Update:

Applied second coat this morning before work, didn't take much paint. Blew the bubbles out and let dry til about 4:00, checked it after work was dry, no tack. Sprayed on a light "guide coat" of flat white, grabbed a hose and wet sanded. Paint took to sanding very well, I half expected to ruin it right there...as it seems I have never been able to not screw up painting something

Put on coat 3 after wiping off and drying with the leaf blower. went on great, again blowing out the bubbles.

Here are some pics, sorry about the reverse order. But they are numbered.
http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/LUV4x4/Box/

Coats 5,6,7 & 8 went on just as well, got a little more orange peel on the last coat...expected. And kinda hoped for it, that way I get to practice sanding it out for when I find it on the truck repaint... I did say when, not if
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FIAA: Color Guard

Looks like it shined up nice. Sweet!

Thanks, but actualy that's just the finished paint stage. I have yet to polish it out any. I am giving a couple weeks to be sure the paint cures up, may try to give it a good buffing this weekend.

From what I have seen and learned so far, I am going full speed ahead on my truck repaint in a couple weeks, over Spring Break. Looking forward to it.

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FIAA: Color Guard

I think I will try this with my hood for fun, John deere implement paint,here I come. how much would it take to paint the luv. I found a gal. of van sickel for 40.00

Gallon should be more than enough, with the amount of thinning involved.

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FIAA: Color Guard