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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:50 pm 
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I am in the process of working on a paint job for my luv as well. I'm going to read up a little on this topic, as I hadn't noticed it until now. The pictures of that bug and charger look pretty sweet!

I am still doing prep work, so this step is a little ways off.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:14 pm 
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Forgot to thank you fellos for fixing my computer illiterate link mess up. :oops:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:12 pm 
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No..... thank you for finding and posting the topic to begin with. I'll be ready to start painting mine soon, will start all the prep this weekend and be rolling paint next Thursday. From the looks of the box I have been practicing on, it's gonna be sweet.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:23 pm 
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Im glad I could help out in some way. However Im kind of jealous as right now we are awaiting a snow storm and its just too damn cold to be able to paint anything.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:33 pm 
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Did a little more experimenting with color choices this evening. Think I'm going with 'safety red', thought it was a little bright at first, but the wife loves it.....so Safety Red it is.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Location: Sequim, WA
are you planning a clear coat with your truck after you've painted?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:23 pm 
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I don't plan to clearcoat, prefer to polish and wax a couple times per year.
But we'll see, I have a friend who owns an excellent Paint and Body shop here in town... he's been stacked up for months, may ask his opinion as to clear or not, maybe I can catch him in a realy good mood and he'll throw one on. :)

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 Post subject: Update
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:36 pm 
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ok, it has officialy begun.

I parked the Luv in the shop this evening and started in on the prep work.
Removed bumpers, bedliner,pinstriping, door handles, locks, grill & bezels, side markers, emblems etc.

Took a steel wire wheel to the rust spots I have found, treated with rust converter & filled with bondo epoxy like stuff, still like a few coats then sand and feather in.

Tomorrow I will start on taping off here and there give it one more good cleaning then start the main prep sanding. Found a few rusted thru holes in the usual places, not very big, plan to repair them with a MIG, grind em down, do some more sanding and finish prep work by tomorrow eve.

Will try to get the first coat of paint on early Sat morning... looking at our weather next week I picked the perfect week to attempt this project, sunny, dry & avg. of 80-85 degrees all week. Fully expect the paint to level,dry and take to sanding between coats very well. Gonna go with a little thinner paint than what I used on the "red box", to keep orange peel to a minimum, sanding is not one of my favorites.

Will be taking lots of pics, and posting at different stages... I was thinking I'd do a time lapse sorta thing with my mini DV cam so I won't have to be continualy pawing the camera with dusty/painted fingers.


stay tuned

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 3:45 am 
WTG 79Luv'r :D I painted my Isuzu this way after reading (& reading... :wink: ) & seeing so many excellent results posted on the moparts forum!! 110 pgs so far & something insane like 2650 replys to the original post by 69Charger (whom I salute). I used about 1 1/2 qts of the Rustoleum Stops Rust similar to what the car already was in a stock Rustoleum color so I could get rattle cans for the door jambs, hood edges, etc. IT WORKS!! For all the sceptics here's 1 guys black car from Australia rolled with Brightside marine paint after a final wetsand/polish/wax.

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This is mine before paint. I removed some 80's trim, filled the rivet holes & fixed a few other spots.
I wasn't as meticulously fanatical as AussieDriver but it's WAY better than it was & better than Maaco.
I especially like telling people I rolled it. :lol:

ImageImage

Materials used.
The yellow rollers are the ones NOT to use! Get the white Shurline (Sears) or dark gray Whizz (HD) brand.
This is after 2 THIN coats - the bondo is still showing thru but the shine is becoming evident!
Done right, it takes 3 or 4 before you achieve complete color coverage.

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The Shine!! 8)

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All back together. I'm not gonna clear it. If something happens I can flatten it, sand it down & put on another coat of paint.
I can get squirly in dirt or gravel without worrying over $1000 paint job too. It's a car, drive it!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:52 pm 
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Nice job Yank

I am still doing a little ding and rust repair. Have most of my prep sanding done. Will finish up sanding the outside of the bed this evening, roll it out in the yard to give it one more good cleaning int the morning, hose down the shop, button it up good, then lay down the first sometime tomorrow noonish.

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 Post subject: more info
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:12 pm 
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma. The United States Of America.-1980 LUV 4X4
Keeping in mind that you must still prepare the car as you would with any other paint job. Prepping is all the work and reflects the overall result.

I did not block sand the car, just wet sanded with progressively finer paper by HAND.
No machine sanding, no block nothing.
Using a "block" to sand, I found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up, so I recommend doing it by hand and keeping it really wet. Use a water spray bottle in one hand and a folded piece of sandpaper in the other.
Use a clean bucket of water and a shammy (Tip: Dollar Store!) to clean it off to see how it looks. I prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200, finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. After 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car),
I wet sanded with a 600,
…then painted two more coats,
…wet sanded with 800,
…then painted two more coats,
…and sanded with a 1000-1500,
…then polished with Turtle Wax polishing compound,
…followed by wax,
…...done.
One more pointer, when you wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet.
If you take a rag soaked with Mineral Spirits, and wipe a spot down that you just sanded, that's what it will look like buffed.
If you buff and decide to paint again, clean the area with Mineral Spirits so residue from the polishing compound is removed, or the paint won't stick.
I’ve had a rock hit my hood so hard it sounded like someone threw a golf ball at my car really hard. I didn’t even want to look, but there was no chip, just bit of dust at the impact sight.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... 6d5fe08df8


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:41 am 
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Whew!

Been busy this morning, finishing up last minute details before painting.

First coat is on... no turning back now.... and MAN is it RED

Couple pics
Side:
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New paint on gas cap:
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Bumper b4/after... I striped a the poor rechrome-job off it gave it a good primer coat and shot it with Duplicolor bedliner spray... kinda wish I had done the whole truck with the stuff, it just screams "c'mon, get me dirty". The black parts of my truck I painted with it also, it's tough as nals when cured.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 2:18 pm 
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nice!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 3:36 pm 
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma. The United States Of America.-1980 LUV 4X4
Did you buy a gallon of paint. how much paint did you use on the 1st coat.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 3:44 pm 
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daveNnorman wrote:
Did you buy a gallon of paint. how much paint did you use on the 1st coat.


Bought a gallon, for "just in case" future use...first coat I premixed about 10fl ounces and added about 4-5 ounces(probably too thin) mineral spirits, barley put a dent in it, fortunatley I'm not painting over bare metal.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 4:27 pm 
How did you strip the bumper? Chemical or elbow grease? Looking good so far. Keep posting yer progress.


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 Post subject: Bumper
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 5:32 pm 
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SoYank wrote:
How did you strip the bumper? Chemical or elbow grease? Looking good so far. Keep posting yer progress.


The bumper was an old rechrome, I actualy started knocking some of it off at the carwash with the high pressure wand... the rest was a elbow grease. I used a 3/4" Stanley wood chisel and some 300 grit sand paper to occaisionaly resharpen the chisel. Most came off easily, once it started, it kinda came off like tape, the rest I would use a small circular motion with the blade and it would eventualy catch an edge and start the peeling.

after that just sand the worst scratches(not many), then used some good greay primer and Duplicolor spray on liner. Gonna look pretty good on a 4x4.

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 Post subject: Second Coat
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 5:37 pm 
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Just finished putting on the second coat.

One tip, I put on the first coat in the garage, then after I felt it was dry enough to keep bugs etc, from sticking to it, I parked it out in the sun, which realy sped up the drying time.

Drove it back in the shop, gave it a good wipe down with a tack cloth, started rolling.

About halfway through I found myself sorta snikering as to how good it was looking already. Drying overnight and may sit in the sun a bit tomorrow before wet sanding and 3rd coat.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:43 pm 
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and your doing this with a roller correct?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:43 pm 
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blove22 wrote:
and your doing this with a roller correct?


Yep, 4" high density foam roller, and Rustoleum Safety Red. There are a few spots that I will have to hit with a rattle can, luckily the two match nicely.

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