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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:54 pm 
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my son is putting in a new wiring harness, not sure if painless or e-z had is having some question ... can any one help ? would like to get phone number and have him call you

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 12:45 am 
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I put an E-Z harness in my 80. I'd be happy to help if I can. I'm very bad about keeping notes etc... and it was almost 2 years ago that I did it. All the same I'll help anyway I can.

Chad
303-601-2505

FYI, if it was an E-Z system, I called them and they walked me through any tricky parts. I emailed them a copy of the stock wiring diagram and the guy was very helpful.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 12:47 am 
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thanks ill let him know

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:13 pm 
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I just put a painless in my truck. It was very tedious work but it made a world of difference. I dont know how much help i can be down in south america but if you want to PM me i'll do what i can.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 4:16 pm 
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Has anyone else used the EZ wire harness? I was talking to someone on here that said one of harness companys, you could send them the wire diagram for a Luv and they made small modifications to the harness before they ship it to you, but I can't find the entry now. Doh!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:53 am 
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That would be great if EZ did that., I need to order a wiring harness very soon.

Craig


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:42 pm 
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chaddmann wrote:
I put an E-Z harness in my 80. I'd be happy to help if I can. I'm very bad about keeping notes etc... and it was almost 2 years ago that I did it. All the same I'll help anyway I can.

Chad
303-601-2505

FYI, if it was an E-Z system, I called them and they walked me through any tricky parts. I emailed them a copy of the stock wiring diagram and the guy was very helpful.

I think this was the entry i was looking at. I thought he said they made mods, but maybe they just recommend a speific kit for the Luv.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:43 pm 
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For those of you that have bought one of those wire harness, What do you do when you have to use a plug? Say for example the instrument panel? On my 80 Luv I have a "Engile Idle Speed Sensor", theres a plug that goes into the front of that.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks! 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:49 am 
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i had my harness out replacing the cab on my pickup, and had to do alot of rewiring on it to make it work right, but as far as idle speed i know the stock hitachi's use a power lead that needs to have power when the truck is running, other than that i cant be of much help i dont really know anyhting about weber carbs other than im told they are better, and the only one i tried didnt work right and made my truck run like crap... but i do know a bit about wiring i enjoy it its a good challenge, i couldnt tell you what to do over the phone i could only give advice based on my recolection

-Dustinicus

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:49 pm 
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Dustinicus wrote:
i had my harness out replacing the cab on my pickup, and had to do alot of rewiring on it to make it work right, but as far as idle speed i know the stock hitachi's use a power lead that needs to have power when the truck is running, other than that i cant be of much help i dont really know anyhting about weber carbs other than im told they are better, and the only one i tried didnt work right and made my truck run like crap... but i do know a bit about wiring i enjoy it its a good challenge, i couldnt tell you what to do over the phone i could only give advice based on my recolection

-Dustinicus


Just came back to this post recently. Dustinicus gave , me an idea. I may end up just pulling out my wiring and replacing the bad wire. My trucks blows the regulartator fuse after its warmed up. I'm thinking somethings either meleted the insulations or the insulations been damaged where it's grounding out.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:54 pm 
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I know the regulator fuse runs to the coil and it has a ballast resistor that needs to be in line between the posative side of the coil and the (power ON) wire from the harness the POWER ON is a black and yellow wire, all it takes is just a slight leak and you will blow the regulator fuse, but really if you have the wiring diagram, or just check out one of the info pages on hree you will find the wiring diagram you need. This will also help if you have exta harness wires that dont do jack, or wanna get rid of the clutch safety switch or if you have the GM one wire alternator upgrade done you can just remove the voltage regulator wire(white/red) its just for a signal to your dash to say if somethign is wrong, but with trucks these old i would advise a complete gague system that includes the voltage gague... Basically if you feel confident and think yourself compitent and got the wiring diagram, then say go for it, i did mine over a night on one of my days off, and it really wasnt that bad, it could have been worse, also this way if you have any accessories you can wire in the dash lights to the aftermarket gagues, and if you dont want to remove any wires then you can run the white/red wire straight to the voltage gague that i know to be a good voltage source.. But enough rambling if anyone has any questions or if you happen to have about a half a mile of about 20 different color wires, a fuse box, and all the switches your going to use, i could prolly walk you through the build up and installation of a wiring harness, the only thing that would help is a live messenger session with both sides having a digital camera that can upload messages easily to the computer for reference....

Dustinicus <--- ])-R-U-|\|-]{

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:33 pm 
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too bad I have a couple wiring harnesses from my parts it may be easier! may be old original wire but works.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 10:09 pm 
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Dustinicus wrote:
I know the regulator fuse runs to the coil and it has a ballast resistor that needs to be in line between the posative side of the coil and the (power ON) wire from the harness the POWER ON is a black and yellow wire, all it takes is just a slight leak and you will blow the regulator fuse, but really if you have the wiring diagram, or just check out one of the info pages on hree you will find the wiring diagram you need. This will also help if you have exta harness wires that dont do jack, or wanna get rid of the clutch safety switch or if you have the GM one wire alternator upgrade done you can just remove the voltage regulator wire(white/red) its just for a signal to your dash to say if somethign is wrong, but with trucks these old i would advise a complete gague system that includes the voltage gague... Basically if you feel confident and think yourself compitent and got the wiring diagram, then say go for it, i did mine over a night on one of my days off, and it really wasnt that bad, it could have been worse, also this way if you have any accessories you can wire in the dash lights to the aftermarket gagues, and if you dont want to remove any wires then you can run the white/red wire straight to the voltage gague that i know to be a good voltage source.. But enough rambling if anyone has any questions or if you happen to have about a half a mile of about 20 different color wires, a fuse box, and all the switches your going to use, i could prolly walk you through the build up and installation of a wiring harness, the only thing that would help is a live messenger session with both sides having a digital camera that can upload messages easily to the computer for reference....

Dustinicus <--- ])-R-U-|\|-]{


I will trace out the Black and Yellow wire. I bet you are right about the wire on ballast resistor (on top of the coil).
The previous owner has a wire from the coil directly to the fuel pump.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:21 am 
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I just used an extra wire that has a power source when the engine is in the on position for the fuel pump, i think it was using the switch teminal thing thats on the passenger side of the engine compartment, i could sent you a pic of an edited wiring diagram if you would like for reference

Dustinicus <--- ])-R-U-|/|-]{ ... again

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 11:02 am 
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I checked the black wire with the yellow strip. It looks like its hooked up ok on the ballast resistor. Nothing seems to loose and insulation on the wires seem ok.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:06 pm 
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I created a wire diagram from the wires off the Regulator Fuse (see below).
I used a voltage meter and checked for continuity in all the wires from that fuse.
I also unwrapped all the tape around the wire harness in the engine area, and traced the wires to make sure nothing is grounding out. The wires going to the Engine Idle sensor and the instrument panel are in good shape.

Since the fuse blows after the truck warms up. Usually it blows after I take it for a test drive and not just idling in my driveway. I'd prefer to replace just the damaged wire, but I may end up going with a wire harness. Could something else connect to the instrument panel blow the fuse after it warms up?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 9:53 pm 
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If you open that part of the harness up back to the little junction box right along the fender well on the passenger side, there are little silver boxes that if i disconnect them my truck dont work right or work at all, but there should be a black and yellow wire there in part of that junction i think that part runs back to the coil and another runs straight either to the ignition switch or runs to the fuse box first:

""" "" http://www.luvtruck.com/PDF/Series9&10.pdf "" """
I dont know if the link will show up but its un the info section under wiring harness the black and yellow in one way or another runs to the regulator psrt of the fuse box, if you want to know if you are going to have any problems with it then run another wire straight to the botow side of the fuse box and run a temp hook up to the place where the black and yellow wire meets up, make sure you dont jump the fuse though, and disconeect the old wire from the coil and hook you new temp one, if the fuse blows then your relay might be shot and over loading the circuit, or you got somethign grounding out along there some where....

thats all i got for now just let me know hoe it goes

Dustinicus

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:03 pm 
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Dustinicus wrote:
If you open that part of the harness up back to the little junction box right along the fender well on the passenger side, there are little silver boxes that if i disconnect them my truck dont work right or work at all, but there should be a black and yellow wire there in part of that junction i think that part runs back to the coil and another runs straight either to the ignition switch or runs to the fuse box first:

""" "" http://www.luvtruck.com/PDF/Series9&10.pdf "" """
I dont know if the link will show up but its un the info section under wiring harness the black and yellow in one way or another runs to the regulator psrt of the fuse box, if you want to know if you are going to have any problems with it then run another wire straight to the botow side of the fuse box and run a temp hook up to the place where the black and yellow wire meets up, make sure you dont jump the fuse though, and disconeect the old wire from the coil and hook you new temp one, if the fuse blows then your relay might be shot and over loading the circuit, or you got somethign grounding out along there some where....

thats all i got for now just let me know hoe it goes

Dustinicus


The problem with hooking up a temp wire to test each wire, is that the black-yellow stripe wire conects into plugs on Engine Idle Speed sensor, and on the relays. I'd have to cut the black-yellow stripe wire to islolate it from the other wires in the plug.

I was also thinking of buying the two relays, it may be simpier than splicing the wirse with a temp wire.
What are the two relays called? Napa has two of them on their website.
One is called the "Accessory Relay Connector" and
The second is called the "Blower cut off relay". Then again those two could be under the dash somewhere.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 2:14 am 
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Well i understand not wanting to cut back any wires or anythign like that, but i asure you that the only thing slightly resembling a relay under the dash are just the flasher units and some cut off switches for the neutral start type stuff... But if the relays arent too expensive then i would suggest getting themwho knows it could cure the problem

dustinicus

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