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 Post subject: TIMING HELP
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:25 pm 
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I GOT A 1978 LUV 1.8 I HAD TO PUT A ROD IN IT IT ALL WENT WELL BUT AFTER I HAD THE HEAD OF I HAD TO TURN THE CRANK WITCH TURN MY CAM GEAR NOW I GOT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND DO NOT NO HOW TO LINE THE TIMING MARKS UP THE CHIN NEVER CAME OF ANY THING BUT THE CAM SPROKET.IS THERE A WAY TO PUT IT BACK IN TIME WITH OUT PULL THE HEAD OR OIL PAN BACK OFF ............ :oops: :cry: :cry:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:17 pm 
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First of all, yes. I got to go eat dinner right now, but pretty soon you'll have all the answers right here, so don't get stressed out. We all care about the newbies and will nurture you right along. There isn't anything that hasn't been covered here, and you'd do yourself a favor to just do a little reading. Look around. Try "Search" at the top of the page. When I get back from dinner I expect to see more on here already, but whether there is or not, stay calm. I got my head off right now. When I put it on THIS WEEK, I'm going to detail and photograph every move I make, so rest assured, you're going to be fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:18 pm 
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I want to say I'm a little puzzled by your question for the reason that if you put a rod in what were you doing that far in to the engine if you had such a question of timing? The piston rod replacement requires head and oil pan removal, but not the removal of the timing components. You must have moved the crank a little when you replaced the rod cap, but putting the timing mark back where it should have been is easy. You haven't removed the distributor, have you? If not, just line up the timing marks. Turn the engine in the direction of rotation until the rotor lines up with the number one position on the distributor cap. Make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is on 0°. You have to remove the rocker arm cover if it's already installed. That should be easy, and okay to reuse the cork gasket. The timing mark on the camshaft has to line up with the mark on the #1 rocker arm bracket. Then you fit the camshaft gear on to the shaft and check to see that everything is in line. Be sure you leave the timing chain tensioner adjuster in the "SET" position. This is with the slot in line front to back.

I suggest you find a manual to give you the bulk of what you need to know. I prefer the Chevy manual, Series 8, which corresponds to that year, 1978; I also own the same. I hope you did the torque sequence correctly, and replaced the gaskets.

I could say more, but am going to let you ask. Anything?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:44 am 
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Image Click on the photo...

Here's a photo of the lining up of the camshaft with the #1 rocker arm shaft bracket mark. Make sure this lines up when you replace the sprocket.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 10:26 am 
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i lined the timing marks up now all it dose is spin and wont fire sounds like the motor is knocking when i turn it over .no 1 is up and i lined up the cam sprocket with the mark on the no1 rocker shaft


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 10:32 am 
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Bent valves? :cry: If the timing is out of phase, the pistons will hit the valves. IF you spun it over with the timimg out, best to check. Hope it comes out OK.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:50 am 
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Well it sounds like you might have problems. I can't see what you're doing, and you might be going too fast.

If the valves are not correctly adjusted, they will hit the pistons and that's a mess. Did you adjust the valves?

What did you do?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:57 am 
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It doesn't make a difference if the pistons hit the valves or the valves hit the pistons, right mytmouz? It's both going to bend the valve stems, and then it's stuck, huh? Then If you took your engine apart and didn't have a plan, what is going to happen? We wonder where the fault lies. It's possibly in more than one area, so you need to tell us more, Fast. I wouldn't go cranking the engine too much.

I'm watching football for the next three to four hours or more, so I'm shutting this off.

I hope you get it right. Fast.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:01 pm 
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You want to try switching the wires on the distributor cap around 180° if you got the rotor wrong when you replaced the camshaft sprocket. You didn't say...

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:16 pm 
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ok I could be wrong its been a while but I think for the timing you have to set the #4 tdc then align the marks or you will be 180 out ... I did mine on the #1 tdc and was off read the book more and found one place that said #4 tdc and no other mention of it.. I over looked it many times...but don’t do it this way till you verify I am right or someone else chimes in on this I know everything had to be off #1 tdc but one was #4 tdc and I think it is the timing chain...... any help here people also ill dig up my book and look, if I can find it

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:20 pm 
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now the motor dose not sound like it has any comparison any more.i switch the wires around i have made sure it was in time brought no1 up and lined the cam up it still sounds like the motor ic knocking when i turn it over i am sure it bent the valves the first time i turned it over so i am going to take the head back off and have it check bad thing is it is a brand new head it ant even got 30miles on it .the motor makes a wine noise with a knocking sound i seams like it just has no comparison when i turn it over.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:27 pm 
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i did not miss with the valves at all.all i did is turn the motor a little to get the rod cap on and forgot to turn it back when i put the chain back on when i got it back togehter i hent to start it and heard something hit then it start to sound like it was knocking when i turn it over.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:51 pm 
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Lost a timing chain twice on my old 79 4x4. Bent every valve the first time. 2nd time I think 2 exhaust valves were good. This sounds like you may have bent the valves with no compression and the noise when you were starting it. They hit the pistons. This is a interferance engine. Meaning the valves will hit the pistions. My old Chevy Chevtte was a non interferance engine. I could have a timing belt break on the road, and I would be going in less than a 1/2 hr. I carried a spare belt and a small tool box with me.

Pull the valve cover and look at the valves. You might get someone to bump it over and watch the valves to see if the move. I am not sure if you can pry down on the valve with a big screw driver or not. It has been too many years to remember that much. I don't think you can hurt it any more, but you might set the timing gear correct before turning it over.

Good luck.
Richard.

You might see if you can find a good used head. Even if it needs a valve job, you are still bucks ahead.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:58 pm 
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i took my head off and took the cam off all of the valves are in the out and will not go back in to the head so i am sure they bent the head it self is new so it should be ok if i get a valve job done


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 1:37 pm 
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ok found it. in the factory manule on the install it said...(check valve timing; rotor and mark on distrbutor housing should be in alignment when #4 piston is in firing position. Timing mark on crank pulley should align with TDC mark ("0" mark) on front cover.)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:07 pm 
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:cry: Sorry, man.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:28 pm 
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Oh geez!!! I hope you slow down the next time around. You know you need a new head gasket. Where did you get the new head? You might also need new valve stem guides. This is making me think about my own head, and whether or not I'm going to do the same thing.

Ctmandu was right about the #4 piston and you should have noted the crank matches up two pistons at a time. When #1 is on compression stroke, #4 is on exhaust stroke. One full turn of the crankshaft reverses this. The distributor can be installed 180° off and still work fine, if the wires are also changed 180°. By removing the rocker arm cover, (or not having replaced it yet), you can determine which stroke you're on by observing the lobes on the camshaft.

I suppose I could scan and post lots of good things in this Forum, but then you might go out and get your book anyway. I did. I found a factory manual on eBay for $3, but that was only because it wasn't in the Chevy LUV section! You need to do it right, or you will do it again...

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:27 pm 
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Once you get the timing chain fully installed along with the distributor lined up, wrenching the motor a couple of revolutions by hand will tell if the valves strike the piston tops. The starter motor has enough power to do the damage.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:28 pm 
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I agree with the above. Cam timing is set with #4 on compression stroke.
At this point the line on the cam is pointing up. What I used to do is, with the head off, turn the crankshaft to TDC. Take off the distrubutor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to #4. If it is not--rotate crankshaft one more revolution to TDC. With the head back on in this position both rockers on #4 will be a bit loose (rattle with some play in them, valves clossed). At the same time #1 will have play in one rocker (intake valve) and no play in exaust valve rocker as the valve is pushed open. At the next crankshaft revolution the process is reversed.
A good time to adjust the valve clearence at this same time. Rockers loose means the valves are closed. Tight rockers mean a valve is probably pushed open.
I still miss my white 79 4/4 complete with the big factory decals. A big 4/4 on the hood and smaller ones on each side- fenders. Orange and black if I remember correctly.


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