LUVTruck.com

I've got a 350 smallblock/th350 and it runs awesome. Recently thought it's been giving me a problem. I can drive it around town all day and be fine, but if I get on the free way it can only handle 60 and up speeds for a few minutes before I get a really loud clatter from the engine which keeps up as long as I'm at speed, but if I get off the freeway down around 40 or so it quiets down after a few minutes back to normal. Motors got about 40k on a rebuild and running 10W30 oil. It didn't always do this either, when I first got it I drove it 100 miles without slowing down on the freeway and not a peep. Any ideas?

I've got a little tachometer/engine analyzer thing from sears that I want to use to time the engine and get the idle right, but I'm not sure how to use it, it's got a neg and positive clamp that I assume go to the battery, one wire that ends in a little alligator clamp with a green cover and two other wires that go into a metal bracket.

Thanks guys.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Small block Chevy's have a problem with the oil pump pick up tube coming loose and falling off. If you are running a low gear and getting up to a sustained r.p.m. on the freeway it could be that the engine is not getting enough oil. The clatter sound you mentioned sounds like the top of the valve train running out of oil. This of course is not good and can ruin your whole engine. Pull the pan and check the pick up tube and screen. While you are at it, check the screen, and the bottom of the oil pan. You are looking for small metal shavings, or small pieces of metal. I understand that a little bit is acceptable to some, and it's the job of the round screen on the pick up tube to filter and debri out, so it won't be running through your engine. Another thing that sometimes happens is if you don't have the right lifters for your block, you won't get enough oil at r.p.m. Either of these problems can be repaired easily enough, but I wouldn't run it on the freeway until you get it checked out and repaired. As far as the analyzer goes, read the instructions thoroughly, and follow the directions. These instruments are sensitive, and it's possible to burn it up if it's not connected the right way. Timing doesn't seem to be the problem, but with the added ethanol to the fuel we are getting these days it will be for many people.

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I want to be different like everybody else.

let me rephrase about that analyzer. It says on it that it's sears brand, but I got it at a yard sale and their are no instructions.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

On the analizer, the alligator clip is for a dwell reading if you're checking a motor that has points. If you have H.E.I. ignition, disregard this wire. The red and black clamps do go to the pos and neg of the battery. The wire leads that have the metal bracket are for checking amperage of the charging system.
You should have one more wire assy that clamps around a spark plug wire like a timing light. This is for reading r.p.m. This lead can clip to any spark plug wire and with the unit set for 8 cyl, will give you a pretty accurate reading.
I bought the kit that Sears put together ( analizer, timing light, compression tester and remote starter switch) in 1984 and it still works flawlessly today.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

What you see is what I got.



"A picture is worth a thousand words."

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

This is the complete kit;


The far right cable is the lead for r.p.m. reading from a plug wire.
Next is the battery leads with the dwell wire
Then a ohms/resistance wire
The alternator/amp leads and a small jumper wire with some clips and connectors.

If you can locate the r.p.m. wire lead, you'll be good to go. The other stuff you dont have is almost useless on a modern vehicle. All that extra stuff i got stays in a plastic bag in the rear compartment of the analizer. I'll bet i haven't opened that bag in 20 years!

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Mine doesn't have any way for anything to plug into it. There's just the five wires coming out of the box. No other holes anywhere on the case where anythings been removed...

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

OK, you have the newer version. Connect the green alligator clip to the tach lead on the H.E.I. distributor.
When i still had the stock motor in my truck, i connected the green wire to the points lead on the distributor. I could set the dwell and get r.p.m. readings too.
Sorry i didn't think of that sooner. It's been too long since i had to deal with that particular wire lead.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Awesome, glad to hear we've got it figured out. Newer version sounds good to me. So. . .umm. . .where's the points lead. . .?. . .Not that I don't know or anything. . . Just makin' sure. . .yeah. . .just makin' sure.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

With H.E.I., you dont need to think of having a points lead but a stock LUV motor you do. The green lead connects on to the tach connection on the distributor cap. You'll most likely need to make a jumper wire to connect to the tach lead. You might be able to attach the alligator clip directly to the tach lead but it would be safer not to dog up anything on the distributor cap.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Thanks. This has been really helpful. I'll check it out tomorrow and see how it works, get it timed and everything.

Don't suppose there's an easy way to tune a Q-jet carb, is there?

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

As long as it's not all gunked up with crap and you have a Q-jet adjustment tool, you shouldn't have a problem. A Q-jet carb has goofy headed adjustment screws that need a special type of flexable screwdriver. Q-jets are really good carbs for as complicated as they are so owning an adjustment tool is a must.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.