LUVTruck.com

OK guys. My dad has gotten a bug into him to find another LUV and fix it up. But not a 4X4 this time (that was my idea anyway ). He wants to find a shortbed 2wd and do a SBC conversion on it. We are talking around 400ci or so. Maybe one of the 385 fast burn crate motors you can buy. Plus a built TH350 and Ford 9" rear. I have a few questions though. I have been trying to read through some posts on the things you need to do to the truck to complete the conversion, plus the install guide that is on the site.

A number of posts talk about pounding the firewall or cutting it so that the distributor will clear. Is this really necessary? From what I have read, you have to relocate the radiator as well as weld the motor mounts you get from Hooker anyway. Along with the fact that you pretty much will want to get a custom driveshaft made. It sounds like you can pretty much position the motor exactly where you want it in the front. Why do you end up pounding the firewall? Additionally, in the install it talks about bolting the transmission mount to the frame, where on the frame exactly?

Also, with the 9" rear, are there any mods you have to make to the suspension to bolt up that axle? Will the stock brake lines bolt right up to the calipers on this axle? What length do you recommend that we shorten the axles to? We will need as much tire as we can get under there, so this important. Recommendations on rim offsets? Do you recommend an adjustable brake biasing kit to readjust the front/rear brake bias? We will probably be running 373 or 370 gears. How do you get the speedo correct again?

On the radiator relocation, can you get an adequately sized radiator to fit where the old A/C stuff was (forward of the bracing)?

Only a Z-28 oil pan will work?

Also, has anyone tried the EFI kits that Jegs sells for these motors? Do they work well? Install OK? Tune OK?

We will be running all electrical stuff (water pump, fans, etc.) I know this is alot of questions. Thanks in advance for your help.

Aww come on guys! Dont tell me you are gonna make me do this by trial and error! HELP ME! Please?

I am at the "pounding" stage if it needs it. I think it all depends on where you locate the engine and what distributor you use also.
You do not have to cut the firewall...I know that for certain...I won't do it.
as far as a custom driveshaft...yep that is the best way to go.
you could get an S-10 shaft or similar and modify to correct length if need be...
I dunno what to say about your question on the tranny mount. I am installing a custom crossmember from art morrison in mine.

as for the rear....you will prolly want to have it shortened and perches welded onto it for the leaf springs depending on what you get it out of.
an S-10 rear will bolt directly up with no modification. that is what is under mine at this time.

dunno about the radiator cause that will be my next job after locating the engine where I want it.
if you keep an eye out on the website I will do a write up on it as I have done on everything on my truck. check my website out on the button below.
im using a stock oilpan. dunno what it came out of...

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03Cobra

OK thanks for the info. I plan to try and document my experience step by step with pics. Hopefully, we can get this thing documented a bit better.

So explain a bit more about what you mean about the distributor. Are we talking about the difference of distributor heights, makes (MSD, ACCEL) , etc, or are we talking about whether or not I even use one (like if I went all electronic ignition / distributor delete)?

I think what it is, is that whether you use an HEI dist. or a regular coil dist. I have talked to some people who use the regular coil dist. and had no reason to do any "pounding" or "massaging of the firewall" The people who are running the HEI dist. have had to do a little "masaging, and then theres RATNLUV !!!!!! Who likes to sit next to his Big block
JK RAT
just my two pennies
Later
Husker

I located my engine where it is going to sit last night. the distributor is about 1/4" away from the firewall. I am using the MSD billet distributor. the engine will sit very low and I will be able to put a motor plate in for mounting. the last thing I have to check is headers and making sure they will fit even if I have to massage some steel.

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03Cobra

A friend of mine wants me to put a crate Vette engine in it, and I told him that if I do, it would have to come out of a 69 Vette Stingray and I would need the rear axle, the drave axle and the tranny too.

His mouth dropped open. I told him that if I put that Vette engine in it and bolted the tranny up to it that little tranny would turn to dust.

Bug Eyes is what I got. He asked me what was in it, and I said a 4 Cylender 110Cubic Inch Isuzu Hemi.



The response was: What's a hemi?

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

hey luv4me: Thanks for the info. How much room did you have in the front near the radiator?

man I got alot of room. I am using headers that are sopose to fit a 78 camaro and they fit like a glove. I have to move both number 1 tubes cause the spark plugs hit them...ugh...dam bowtie heads...lol

had to beat a little on the firewall. passenger side for the header and that is it so far.
the engine is going to sit really low in the truck. I will post pics soon. I will be making templates for the front plate tonight.

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03Cobra

You going to keep the same tranny? Or do you have to swap them out when you put the 8 in?

_________________
More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

I am using a powerglide.

yes you have to change trannies.
a turbo 350 will fit, or a number of 3,4 or 5 speed manual trannies made for a chevy will fit.

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03Cobra

F.Y.I.
take all this in mind....I do not have torsion bars. I have coil overs.
the headers would have hit the torsion bars for sure and the engine prolly wouldn't be able to be as low as it is going to sit.

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03Cobra

do you have any pics of the coil overs?

u need to read this thread.
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?t=3251

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03Cobra

Not sure if I've posted these before. Here's a couple shots from last time I had my engine out.

Passenger side motor mount:

Driver side motor mount:

Firewall "massaging":


The firewall needs to be clearanced to provide room for the top of the transmission. You would have to set the engine too far forward if you didn't do this.

Looks like you pounded it up so it would fit. Or did you cut out and weld a patch in there. It isn't totally clear, but it looks good.

_________________
More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

Customized via sledge hammer.

It really does not look like it was that bad. Maybe a 8Lb sledge

It looks as if it had to go up an inch or so?

_________________
More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

Ya, about that much. All your really doing is folding over the seam where the firewall is spot welded to the cab floor.

What I did for motor mounts in my luv i made mine to mount to the front of the block and weld them to the underside of the front crosmember where the radiator sits but I had to move it foward also. Im using hei and it cleared also Im use in stock oil pan it clears but the headers are about 3 inches from the ground