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Hey all I got an original G180 on my 76luv but I also got a free G200 head. I just ordered a master rebuild kit just without the cam cause I wasn't sure which one I would need for this sort of build. I go the rings and pistons .40 oversized and I'll be putting a T5 transmission on it.

I need to know what a good cam to go with would be also if I need to know anything special for having a G200 head, I've heard you need a G200 timing kit when you change the head but I want to be sure before I put it all back together. Also, will I need new valves and springs?

I already have pacesetter headers and a 32/36 DGEV and a brand new stock distributor.

Thanks!

If I remember correctly the G200 head will drop compression a little. Most wanted the G200 short block with the G180 head. I think Delta still grinds G180/200 cams.

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I was planning on running a turbo with 9lbs of boost down the road so I thought it might be better to run with a g200 head since compression will be raised so much with the turbski on it

G200Z head has smaller intake valves than a G180Z prior to about '79. You can install larger valves, like from a 4ZD1, maybe even a 4ZE1. Check with ozgemini(?) to see what will fit.
A G200 head will lower compression about a full point, the overbore will bring it back some.
A G200 uses a different timing chain tensioner than a G180 & there's a lobe to drive the mechanical fuel pump that bolts to the cam gear, but otherwise I think the rest of the timing components are identical & don't see any reason you couldn't use your existing G180 timing set as long as you're using an electric pump.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Would it be a good idea to grind down the intake valves at all or would that be unsafe? Also should I just use the metal tensioner from the g200 kit and keep everything the same from the g180 kit? Lastly does anyone know a good place to get thr bigger valves and better springs maybe?
Thanks!

-"Would it be a good idea to grind down the intake valves at all or would that be unsafe?"
I'm not understanding your question. A complete rebuild includes a valve job, which entails grinding the valves to fit the seats & not just the intakes.
-"Also should I just use the metal tensioner from the g200 kit and keep everything the same from the g180 kit?"
Why not just use the G180 parts, you aren't installing a G200, you're keeping the G180?
-"Lastly does anyone know a good place to get thr bigger valves and better springs maybe?"
Probably best to let whatever mechanic/machine shop doing the rebuild find them for you. There are no "better" springs, just new versions of what you have, same for the valves, they're just new replacements but may be a different size. If you change sizes you must install a matching valve seat, that sometimes requires machining the seat pocket.

One thing you probably want to do is to use the 1.9/G200 head gasket, it has a larger 87mm cylinder bore & won't overhang into the bored G180 or the G200 head combustion chamber like a stock G180 head gasket(84mm) might.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.