Luvrv8 wrote:
Lining up on number 4 was for the rebuilding process. For head gaskets I use #1. Thinking the cam timing is off
It doesn't really matter where the engine is for a head gasket replacement as long as you don't rotate the crank or the cam while the head is off & put the chain & cam gear back on exactly as they came off. the chain can't fall off the crank gear, the cam gear is tied to the chain, so the only way you can get the timing off is to rotate the cam or the chain/gear combo. The chain & cam gear should have just raised up & slipped right back on the cam with nothing rotating, if they didn't you moved something during the gasket replacement. And the FSM does indeed say to put the engine to #4TDC for a head gasket replacement
That said my opinion is that you should always put the engine to #1TDC before opening it up in any way. There are alignment marks on the crank, cam & timing chain that will only all align at #1TDC plus the dizzy rotor will be pointing towards the #1 plug terminal. It's easy to tell if it's been put back to #1TDC, check that everything points to where it's supposed to.
Luvrv8- the engine should be put to #1TDC during a rebuild, not #4. When the oil pump alignment marks match the crank setting marks the distributor drive shaft will drop into the oil pump timed to #1TDC. If the oil pump is bolted 180 degrees out the dizzy will be timed at #4TDC and the plug wires will need swapped before it will run.
Now to the problem of no compression- I agree you probably have a timing problem & the valve adjustment with the timing off set at least one valve in each cylinder so that it's not closed when that piston is at TDC.
BTW there was no picture. The cam pin ensures the cam gear will only go on one way plus it makes the gear turn the cam.
If you need to rotate the engine assembly with the cam & chain installed loosed the valve adjusters all the way so that all the valves are closed, then the pistons won't hit the valves. The put the crank timing mark to zero- it will be at either #1 or #4 TDC- then look to see what position the cam is in- if the cam alignment dowel is straight up the cam is at #1TDC, if the dowel is straight down it's at #4TDC. If it's somewhere else you definitely have a cam timing problem. You need to get the engine to #1TDC or as close as you can. Now look at the dizzy rotor, see which terminal it's pointed at or closest to. Look at the cam sprocket, there should be a matchmark on the sprocket that aligns with a mark plate on the chain. This occurs only when the crank, chain & cam sprocket are at #1TDC.
If the "book" you are using is a FSM there is a picture of the timing chain with all the marks noted when the engine is at #1TDC- it's in the timing chain replacement section. If need be I can scan & post it, but it will be tomorrow evening late.
What you ultimately need is for the crank & cam to be at #1TDC. You can pull the cam sprocket back off & rotate the cam independently of the crank & chain to get the dowel in the correct position. If the cam sprocket match marks don't align with the chain marks you can try moving the cam gear so that they do align by keeping strong tension on the side of the chain opposite the tensioner. When you get all the marks to align telling you you're at #1TDC rotate the engine at least two complete revolutions to make sure the marks return to the same alignment- this is with the valves still all closed. If the engine readily returns to #1TDC check that the dizzy rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire terminal. If all matches set the valve lash. If you still don't have compression the problem is likely the gasket or installation, not timing.
Now, if your engine happened to be put together with the dizzy at #4 when the crank, chain & cam says it should be at #1 then you need to make the appropriate adjustments to the valve adjustment procedure. This may be your problem, the pertinent valves were adjusted as if the engine were at #1TDC when it was actually at #4. A quick tell should be if the #1 plug wire from the dizzy cap actually goes to the #4 plug.