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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:14 pm 
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Well didn't get the time at home needed to adjust my floats. Back at the hospital to start the little guy's chemo so hopefully by the end of the week I can look into it

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:07 am 
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Looks like I am finally gonna get started on the long list of body work and primer. I found a good painter that is gonna give me a hell of a deal on spraying the paint for me after I do the body work and primer.
Still need to get the carb sorted out. Still thinking floats are emptying out. But the jetting probably isn't spot on either. Hoping to find a cheap used wide and o2 sensor/gauge setup so I can get it dialed in just right later on
I will see if I can get a driving video of what's happening and post it up over the weekend if anyone feels like chiming in on what it sounds like it could be

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:01 pm 
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Alright so I took a couple videos this morning
Pardon my narration. And the tach is usually a little jumpy but it gives you a good idea of when it starts cutting out. You can hear it get really choppy as it gets close to 4k in 5th

Image



Image

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:40 pm 
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Finally dug out my fuel pressure gauge from the parts box of no return. gonna plumb it into the cab and keep an eye on it for a little while and try to rule out a supply issue
Thinking either I have too lean of secondary needles/jets or the float is going dry under acceleration when I am already at a highway cruising speed. It seems worst in fifth when I am already cruising in the mid 2k range and.try.to rev above 4k. Gonna experiment a bit

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:28 pm 
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Made a dump run last weekend hauled 986lbs of old shingles and tar paper and misc building materials, man was my rear suspension loaded down! Used their scales to figure out with gas and minus me the truck is about 2600lbs as it sits with a few things in it. Their scale is pretty accurate they just replaced it recently and it accounted for the small change of weight with my fiance being in the truck and not being in the truck almost to the pound.

As far as that goes for my Carb it didn't behave differently with the half ton of junk loading it down and I was still rolling from a stop in second. Pulled from a stop in 3rd the other day and didn't notice until I was doing about 25 and wondering why I hadn't had to shift yet

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:37 pm 
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So I have been doing some research on ford 8.8s on therangerstation
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... odes.shtml

Looks like there was. 3.27 L/S 8.8 rear end but it is very uncommon. There is also an open 3.27 and 3.08
I don't think I want to go lower (nemerically higher) than 3.27. There are options for 3.45 and 3.55 as well but that isn't a big enough change from my 4.10 which is terrible for the street my 1st gear is way too deep and 5th isn't a big enough change over the 4 speed.
Around town i cruise around a gear or two high and roll at 16-1800rpm. I can be in 5th at 35 so my gearing is just not where it should be at all to make use of the torque I have now and my highway speed is the same 55mph as before because any higher and my secondaries start opening and my mileage takes a huge dip
I'm trying to decide if I should go 3.08 or 3.27. I like the ability to accelerate hard but I need to be able to cruise comfortably at 70 on the freeway too

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 10:31 pm 
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Well I got a job with a general contractor that gives me an excuse to drive the luv to work so i finally got the annoying electrical gremlins dealt with so I can use it reliably :ebiggrin :twisted:
Had the voltage sensor wire from my alt wired up wrong so it was drawing power when it wasn't running noticed a very slight noise coming from it when I was testing to find the power loss
Fixed the fault in the connector in that same wire, apparently my crappy crimp connector didn't hold very well and I was only getting an intermittent charge from it so I replaced and soldered a new one in, been 3 days and the battery is still at full charge it was dying overnight before :ebiggrin
And I used a amp ground wire for the power output from my alt and it slowly burned out at the ends so that was replaced while I was in there
Hopefully over the weekend I have time to look into my gas and temp gauges, i will probably need to get a new luv temp sensor and run new wiring to both gauges I'm sure I must have cut the power wire to them or something stupid while I was hacking up my harness

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 6:18 pm 
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Since changing my wiring and getting full charge from my alt my truck hasn't been fighting me to rev I was able to take it to 5500 today without any wild sputtering in 2nd-4th, didnt try 5th but im thinking it was mostly running on battery power and it wasn't able to give enough power to the distributor to carry the rpm that high
What is considered too high of a voltage for amp output? When I checked it after redoing the wiring it was at 15.2v

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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 8:03 am 
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While on the electrical problem bandwagon I decides to try and fix my fuel level gauge last.night. pulled up the wiring diagram and right away realized that the yellow wire the previous owner spliced into to power the stereo deck was also the same one that powers my gauge cluster. I cut it thinking it went nowhere. Took maybe 5 minutes to find it strip the end and run it to the sign switch and BAM gas gauge works, temp gauge will work when I get a luv sensor again. Seat belt light works but the wiring for it is gone so I need to modify that part but at least I will be able to figure out when I'm gonna get stranded ahead of time :ebiggrin

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:28 pm 
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Alright guys couple questions i have been trying to figure out

1. What can I do to get the front hubs to the 2wd setup? I am pretty sure control arms won't swap. But do the spindles swap over? The 4wd hubs really limit my wheel selection

2. Trooper sway bars... who has tried it? I know I saw somebody post about it once but haven't seen much info about it. If they are the same bend I can bore out the luv bushings or buy some new trooper bushings but some conformation would be great. Will end up re-indexing the tbars to lower and stiffen it before long it is way too soft up front and the tires are too skinny for the power

3. What is a reasonable amount lower to go? I feel like 3" is probably too much but i havent tried getting it lower yet. Being that it was a 4x4 I think it sits a tad higher than a 2wd but I haven't checked to confirm.
I do haul stuff so I plan to get some load assist coil over shocks out back to help keep it level. I figure lowering blocks out back to match the front would be quick and easy and not mess with my haldling as long as I don't drop it real far

4. Lastly I am going to get a ford 8.8 this has been decided and I just need to save some $$$ from my next few checks to go pull one. Planning to give Dutchman axles a call about shortening the stock axle shafts and redrilling them to 6x5.5 when I do get one in my hands. So since I can more or less pick my own axle width and find wheels and tires.with the right back spacing. What would be a good sized rear tire to run? Once I have the LSD 8.8 it will grab a lot better already but it is usually wet out here and it gets real annoying to always spin the tires. I think the 195s equate out to 7.7" width. Would something closer to 10" be a better option?

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 10:33 pm 
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On the 8.8, I haven't found anyone who can shorten the stock style axles and put the c clip nest back on the end. You also cannot respline the stock long axle that far, due to the taper of the axle. If you swap to 9 inch ends to eliminate the c clips, you will need new axles. The rear with 2 stock short axles is too wide for a LUV to get a wheel with the correct back spacing, and the pinion is not centered. You might get away with a 7 inch wide wheel, though...

On my stepside, the overall width rear end to fit is 56.375 from the face of the brake rotors using a 5.5 back space 15 x 8 wheel... A fleet side has a tad more room to work with to me, but not enough to make it work with a wide wheel.

A stock s10 rear is 54 overall, you can make that work with the correct backspacing wheel. Some have a 8.5 rear and disc brakes, if you can find one...

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 10:41 pm 
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Dang that sucks but it is what it is. I just want a bit more tire width in the back a 8" wide wheel with a decent tire would be great anything to get a bit more grip
Aren't the 8.5s wider than the 7.5 and 7.625? I thought I had read they were pretty wide but not not as bad as the 8.8. Needing new axles would be a heck of an extra expense for my needs and low hp so something either already narrowed or narrow enough stock from a s10.
The olds bravadas all have LSD rear ends and I think LSD up front too... weird layout for a s10 blazer chassis for sure.. that may be an option to look into

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:26 pm 
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All 2wdtruck rears are SUPPOSED to be 54.5 inches wide...

S10 Pickups
1995 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LB4,L35,M30,GU6)
1995-1997 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LN2,M30,GT5)
1996-1999 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU4,G80)
2000-2002 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU4,G80)
2003 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LU3,M50,GU4,G80)

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 6:39 pm 
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S10 Pickups
1995 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LB4,L35,M30,GU6)
1995-1997 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LN2,M30,GT5)
1996-1999 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU4,G80)
2000-2002 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU4,G80)
2003 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LU3,M50,GU4,G80)

S10 Blazers
1995-1997 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
1998-1999 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
2000-2001 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
2001-2004 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU6,G80)
2003-2005 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU6)

Looks like we found the same site :lol:
Looks like basically all of them have the 3.42 gu6. Couple gu4s
The gu4 is the 3.08 but legend has it they are pretty much a needle in a haystack find. May have to re gear a gu6

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 6:45 pm 
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S10 Pickups
1995 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LB4,L35,M30,GU6)
1995-1997 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LN2,M30,GT5)
1996-1999 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU4,G80)
2000-2002 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU4,G80)
2003 s10 2wd 8.5 rear, (LU3,M50,GU4,G80)

S10 Blazers
1995-1997 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
1998-1999 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
2000-2001 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (L35,M50,GU6,G80)
2001-2004 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU6,G80)
2003-2005 s10 blazer 2wd 8.5 rear, (M50,GU6)

Looks like we found the same site :lol:
Looks like basically all of them have the 3.42 gu6. Couple gu4 and a gt5 will have to cross refenence later and.see what those ratios are

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 7:04 pm 
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Looks like even a auto 2.2 truck had it

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 9:41 pm 
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The only concern I have about the gov-lok rear end is that they are supposed to unlock around 25mph or so. That's great for wheeling or trying to drive in snow. But if I want to get a little sideways i dont want it unlocking mid drift :esurprised
In a straight line it would be nice because in even light rain I have a hard time keeping grip starting off from a stop or up shifting and accelerating

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:42 pm 
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haven't been around in a while now. haven't done much but I did change out my carb step up springs after reading the tuning manual it sounded like I may have been running on the rich needle setting at idle. feels less boggy off the bottom doesn't have as big of a flat spot down low
it is still not right at wot I am thinking I am leaning out, I only have one bigger set of secondary jets so I am going to try those and see if it makes a difference, I get a bit of a surge when I am trying to accelerate hard, if that makes it better but doesn't fix it I will order the next size bigger and try again. if that is worse I guess I will go a size smaller than stock :roll:


im shoulder deep in a 3.2L Isuzu rodeo im rebuilding for my sister-in-law-to-be right now. holy crap is that a complex engine for the year and the truck it is in... never imagined a Isuzu suv from the 90's with DOHC and coil on plug :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:35 am 
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Well the truck is finally parked and ready for some misc work.
Converted my girls little xr100 and got it street plated so I have been riding it to work.. really underpowered but it gets 75ish mpg and top speed doesnt mean much in traffic anyway :lol:

Truck is getting new intake gaskets since i need to re-do the rtf at the back of the intake it is leaking oil and driving me nuts.

Also going to swap to the bigger secondary jets while it's parked and see if that makes a difference at wot. If not it may be time for a better fuel pump the flow on this one is pretty low... eventually I am going to swap to lpg but that is $$$

Looking into rear tires or wheels/tires it's rainy season and 195/75r14 is not cutting it. Hoping to find two 15" wheels that match my front 14s since they are a common 8 spoke and get some fatter and slightly taller rear tires to help with the 4.10 gear. Really need to find a good limited slip s10 axle one of these days but I don't like the gov-lok so my options are very few. Will keep researching. Once I get better tires I am gonna try a run at the strip just to see what happens. Maybe once I get a limited slip rear I can try to make a good pass

Front camber is in the positive gonna see about getting some of the shims and get it to a better setting

the torsion bars are set too soft front it bottoms out way too easy I am going to need to mess with that a bit and see if i can get the front stiffened up may need to re index the bars I don't want it any higher but it needs to be stiffened up... anyone know of a good coil or strut front suspension setup I may find in a yard? Picked up a dewalt cordless sawzall and i feel like that may be fun. I know mustang 2 front ends are popular but my chances of finding one at pick pull are slim. I'm gonna see what I can come up with and may end up trying that if I can do it real cost effective.. maybe a newer small pickup/suv or big car. Will look around and get some measurements next time i go and post them for discussion

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Working part time in a Toyota truck shop around my normal job, talked to the owner about getting a toyota rear axle with the limited slip diff. He said they usually just scrap the axles and keep the diffs, so I may be able to get one really cheap since I don't want a really low gear like everyone swapping gears there does so I am pretty much just taking a scrap axle and gears out of their way just gotta buy the diff for whatever he wants, they have about a dozen diffs there on a pallet

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