LUVTruck.com

Hey guys and gals!
I've got a 80 4x4 stock luv. Deleted smog pump but found that I have more vacuum ports than I can handle. Not even sure what tyoe of carb I have and where the vacuum lines need to be connected and/or plugged.

2nd part is that I've noticed the bottom butterfly in the carb does not ever open. I can manually move it but it doesn't make sense how that works. Lots of questions and for the life of me couldn't find any info in this.

I'm posting pics. I hope they help.

Pics of carb butterfly

If you don't have emissions testing and delete all the emissions stuff all the engine needs to run just fine is a vacuum to the distributor advance, the brake booster, & the PCV port and the charcoal canister if you leave the fuel return connected, the rest can be disconnected/plugged.
Your carb has a vacuum secondary, it won't open until the engine builds enough vacuum with the throttle mostly wide open, which means at a high rpm. Wide open throttle at low rpms & the vacuum drops way down.
By contrast a Weber carb has a mechanical secondary that opens progressively with more throttle & dumps more fuel/air regardless of engine rpms.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Yeah there are a ton of misc vac lines that are useless and will take a little time to find and plug I spent quite a while looking at the diagram under the hood
The 4 holes for the air injection rail over the exhaust manifold are a very rare thread. 14mmx1.25 thread pitch usually only found on spark plugs and similar. I bought some 14mm round bar and a dye to thread it, cut screw driver slots into them and bam no leaks. Some people remove the fittings off the rail and weld them shut, some crimp the tube right at the outside of the fitting and some just leave the rail and plug the air port on top

Weber's are a great improvement they make it much easier to tune and are a ton more reliable

Basically if it isn't the Carb, distributor or alternator you don't need it if you don't have emissions testing on your truck like oldestisuzuist said you need to vacuum line from the base of the Carb to the distributor and the one that goes to the little canister on the passenger side of the firewall.
The big tube on the top of the valve cover should either be kept or replaced with a valve cover breather
I removed most of the extra junk under the hood but kept the evap system for the charcoal canister. (What the little.cylinder on the pass side firewall goes to, Pretty sure I blocked off one or two of the ports

Also the little vac fitting under the intake with 2 prongs I just cut the tubing made a u shaped piece only a couple inches and terminated it to the other barb on the same piece. Lots of little ports to put vacuum caps on the intake and Carb base when you are done

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Thanks guys! Last question....the metal tubing that points up. Can I plug that up too?

You mean the 4 that connect to a bigger tube over the exhaust manifold? or top of valve cover near the rear? Which tubing ? I'm thinking you can probably block it off but I would need to.see to tell you for sure

I don't have that engine in my truck anymore so I can't tell what you are thinking of without an idea of where it is at

I think I may make a sticky about doing a full emissions delete

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

On picture #3. There's is a metal tubing that had a hose attached that is pointing up. Should I plug that one too?

Absolutely
That is for the EGR solenoid on the bottom of the intake. When I did mine I pulled the intake and made a block off plate for the piece underneath and removed the egr tube that goes from the exhaust to the intake around the back of the head. A pipe plug will block off the exhaust side and probably the intake side as well.
To make it easy just pop a vacuum cap on it for now until you have a reason to start pulling manifolds and do the full block off

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Where are you located? I still have my old intake I can take a pic of what the under side looks like

Edit
Just a simple plate with sealant and reusing the bolt holes. And to the left is the other piece I mentioned sealing off with the hose. When I first tried to block that spot off I kept the piece that goes there and made a thin sheet metal plate the same shape and sandwiched it in the middle but it ended up with a leak on the end farthest from the bolts this one is about 1/8" thick at most



Lots of blocked vac ports you don't need much once all is said and done. My Weber had a couple more vac ports too

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

I'm in Amarillo tx.

That really helped me!! I'm a pictures guy if you haven't noticed. Would these vacuum hoses be enough to keep the luv from starting and difficulty starting??

I had it purring like a kitten but was a b!$&@ to start. So much that I drained my battery just got a couple of sputters.

Just haven't been able to find the sweet spot for her. ONCE I get her going I have an electronic power steering that I'm going to install. Excited to do this. Just need to get'er running again and when I want.