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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 8:17 pm 
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yeah I'm thinking I'm just gonna do very small changes at a time keep a list of what I did and what dIffetence i notice if any. if I can get it close myself then it should be a chrap day at the tuner by next week. the shop I'm taking it to is a carb and tune up specific shop so I'm thinking that's my best bet to get it right. would like to take it to a dyno shop afterward and get some numbers on it

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:23 pm 
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alright well I put in new fuel filters because the flow was real weak still not a real impressive fuel flow but its going.
the truck is down at the Tune Up and Carb shop down in tualatin right now. after seeing some of the cars they have outside I'm pretty confident they can get it where it needs to be. should be picking it up in a couple hours

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 3:50 pm 
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a trip to the tuner did the truck a lot of good.
I guess my timing was way off compared to where I thought it was so he fixed that for me, got the carb dialed In, dont know If he had to change jettIng from where I got It. he also cleaned out the carb a bit and a few small things like that. runs really well now.he also figured out my electric choke is faulty so it either needs a rewore or replacement.. or full removal. will get that figured out
I need to turn up the idle a little bit it drops way down to 400 when hot and tops out at 600, I want it between 600-750 so that will be a simple change. the run on problem is much better now as well it still does it occasIonally but not nearly as bad and not every time
all daid and done it only cost me $90 to have it done. best 90 spent on the truck so far :lol:

can't wait for the meet tomorrow see you guys there
edit: adjusted my idle up a bit to about 650 and its driving great now. still worried about my fuel flow my clear filter has barely anything in it when running. truck pulled good all the way to 5000rpm so its probably not an issue I'm just being pananoid

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 7:52 am 
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well truck is running fairly well but it still needs carb adjustment, it frels like I should have a lot more power mid way thru the rpm range, going down the freeway at about 2600 if I get on the gas it really doesn't go much faster for a little while, when it hits about 3k it really wakes up or sounds like it anyway. and it still has some carb backfires low in the rpm so I'm going to have to investigate a bit farther.
still getting terrible mileage as well I run thru five gallons of gas in a faIrly short trip. rough estimate was obly about 10mpg

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:33 am 
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check your timing. and accelerate pump. good to see it driving. lot more fun than stock. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:50 pm 
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timing is dead on the shop I took it to set it at 8* it was 10* retarded... I must be retarded :lol:
wiring was a little too close to my exhaust and caught fire so in having a few electrical issues now gonna have to replace a few of them in the chassis harness to the rear.
I think a big part of my problem is my fuel pump being weak the flow is really weak into a jug. stock pump is maybe 3 psi rated 2.5-4psI and my carb is supposed to have 5.5psi so I'm gonna swap it for a 7psi pump do my regulator has a reason to exist :lol:
I'm just worried about what damage my electrical system may have from the fire and wIres arcing together as it sits the tach jumps around by huge amounts and it can't even make it down the block it backfires and jerks and barely runs. but it ran fire post fire after I changed the wIre to the power center that started the fIre. parked it started it and it barely ran at all.
hopefully its just a couple wires touching that shouldn't be. a few of the chassis harness wires have the casing burnt off :evil:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:22 am 
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love4theluv wrote:
timing is dead on the shop I took it to set it at 8* it was 10* retarded... I must be retarded :lol:
wiring was a little too close to my exhaust and caught fire so in having a few electrical issues now gonna have to replace a few of them in the chassis harness to the rear.
I think a big part of my problem is my fuel pump being weak the flow is really weak into a jug. stock pump is maybe 3 psi rated 2.5-4psI and my carb is supposed to have 5.5psi so I'm gonna swap it for a 7psi pump do my regulator has a reason to exist :lol:
I'm just worried about what damage my electrical system may have from the fire and wIres arcing together as it sits the tach jumps around by huge amounts and it can't even make it down the block it backfires and jerks and barely runs. but it ran fire post fire after I changed the wIre to the power center that started the fIre. parked it started it and it barely ran at all.
hopefully its just a couple wires touching that shouldn't be. a few of the chassis harness wires have the casing burnt off :evil:


Reminds me of when my wiring caught fire... Fried everything in my truck lol.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 2:43 am 
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i got off a lot easier than you then lol I only lost the tail end of the truck and most of it still works just kinda iffy
well I got back to working on the truck and not sure how but the timing had worked its way back to about 8* atdc so I reset it to 8* btdc and adjusted the carb back to where it idles well, each two degrees or so brought the idle up and I had to keep adjusting down, also replaced my clicker pump pump with a 7psi mr gasket pump and set my fpr to 4.5psi and it runs way better!
turned out the fuel hard line was touching my exhaust shortly after the collector merged with the pipe and was boiling off my gas (noticed the bubbles in my glass fuel filter) so I bent the line as close to the frame rail as I could and put a spare spark plug wire heat shield on it where it is closest to the exhaust (about 3") the rest is well clear of it... that could have been ugly if it got hot enough and I see that header glow so I know its been hot enough a couple times...

still need to replace the rear chassis wiring, i picked up a Subaru so I have been tinkering with that and the truck has been waiting for me to feel like doing the wiring. thankfully it is only damaged after the plug for the rear chassis harness so I don't have to touch any of the engine compartment wiring :ebiggrin

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:37 pm 
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got the rear end wiring fixed this morning, all 7 wires from both plugs were burnt from about a foot behind the plugs and another 2' back, removed the spades from the plugs and ran new wire a foot or so past the end of the burnt parts on each wire, color coded them all to match (with colored electrical tape and a couple colors of wire) tested and it is all working just fine again, cleaned up all the terminals while it was apart and soldered all the connections. really glad that is over with :lol:

somewhere along the line one of my pass side exhaust collector nuts rattled off so I had to replace that as well, could have had something to do with starting that electrical fire :oops:

if the new wiring didn't solve the problem with my fuel gauge I am going to have to yank the bed off and trace the wiring back, maybe clean the sender. it was working before I parked the truck so somewhere along the line something got messed up, the gauge works, when the wires were burnt and touching whenever I hit the brake the gauge would go up so something between it and the sender isn't right.


on a side note does anyone know of a good heat shielding that I can put on the under side of my cab? my floor gets so hot the bed liner on the floor where my heel rests peeled off within the first two days of me driving it

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:08 am 
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on a side note does anyone know of a good heat shielding that I can put on the under side of my cab? my floor gets so hot the bed liner on the floor where my heel rests peeled off within the first two days of me driving it[/quote]
I've heard lots of good about the spray on lizard skin stuff.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:28 am 
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will have to look into it I haven't heard of it
making myself a improved header/downpipe heat shield for the pass side for the wiring and the fuel lines today and that should get me back on the road at least. still have to do some body wok and make it look a bit less crappy but it is what it is for now :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:36 am 
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well I forgot to update this a while ago.
I fixed my issue with the distributor/firewall contact knocking my timing retarded whenever I drove it so that is all good now.
made myself a bigger heat shield that goes down past the collector and shields my fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines and wiring harness. but since finally getting my timing set right and keeping it there it hasn't been nearly as hot and my floor does get so cooking hot either

I really want to take it down to PIR and make a pass or two at the strip just to see where it is at but I really need something wider than a 195 tire to do anything even mildly decent. need to find a pair of 15" rear wheels that match the front and a pair of taller and wider tires, shouldn't be real hard to do im just broke right now :lol:
probably 235/65r15 = 27" x 9.25"
or 235/70r15 = 28 x 9.25
vs the current 195/75r14 = 25.5 x 7.68.
depends on what fits, at the very least I can keep the current rear wheels and get some
215/75R14 = 26.7x8.5R14
225/70R14 = 26.4x8.9R14

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 2:00 pm 
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On a hot rod forum that I am on, that same topic came up. Dynamat vs some stuff Lowes sells. Of course every one has their opinion.
i am not sure if a consistences came out of it. :oops: There is lizardskin blow on "paint" kind of stuff. There are some people that have a way to make their own. Some kind of little hollow balls that you mix into a latex type paint.

Dynamat makes a temperature pad and then a sound proofing one. Not a one size fits all. You cam find it on Amazon. To read about it.

I think on a luv They used some kind of juke mat under the carpet I think. Those pipes can get hot and lot of noise too.
The cheapest stuff is at Lowes

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/dynamat-vs-lowes-peel-seal-201328.html

Now that I have confused you. 8O

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 7:35 pm 
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after I got the timing straightened out the floor doesn't get nearly as hot. sitting in traffic and such it gets pretty toasty but not as bad as before. I have some carpet and underlayment I can use in the cab but I like the look of the bed liner too much to want to cover it up, will have to coat underside of cab when I have the chance and a bit of money to spend. or heat wrap the pipes with some of that header wrap

I don't drive the truck very much because of the gas gauge not working. gotta get that figured probably going to have to start at the gauge and run new wires somewhere along the line of cutting things out of my harness I must have snipped the wrong wire

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 7:08 am 
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something like this would probably do pretty well for what I need and do it cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575- ... automotive

looking for the right pair of used 225/70r14's with good tread for the rear, really need to dig into the wiring and figure out the gas gauge mystery, and fit my stock temp sender and see if the sensor works or if I managed to mess that circuit up too.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:05 am 
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Discounttiredirect.com has new 225/70/14s for $76 apiece shipped to your door. I bought a set of Goodyear wrangler 235/75/15s for a similar price and had them like 2 days later.

You've spent this much on your truck. Get some new tires with a warranty.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 3:48 am 
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well so far the truck is doing pretty good, I have some oil leaking out of the back of the intake manifold-block gap because I didn't use enough rtv to seal opening, not real bad but it is annoying to see oil on my pretty new motor :roll:

it seems like im running rich up top, around 3/4-WOT it starts to stumble a bit and doesn't pull as hard as it should. need to take the time to write up a graph of the difference between needle and seat combos and see what pair I need to use to stay about where im at on the main and lean out the secondaries, I haven't changed out the seats at all yet just fiddled with the needles so that part of my tuning process is still to come. if only I had a wideband o2 to tune with :lol:
even running a little funny it will still do a decent one tire fire and I was able to manage a decent rolling burnout before I decided I didn't need to hammer on it so hard while still running iffy, it is still plenty good at putting riced out civics to shame but I don't want to break something

gonna have my baby any day now so I really don't have a dime to spend on the truck and no time even if I did so im jus trying to get whatever I can done when I can.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:17 pm 
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its wild how fast the truck went on the back burner since my son was born! havent messed with it much at all in a while now.
i changed my base timing a little closer to 10* and it runs a little more smoothly, still need to work on my carb tune but its hard to tell where im at to begin with, thinking i will have to resort to a plug chop and see if i can figure out which way i am off, dont really like the idea of flying down the highway at 3500-4k rpm for a couple miles but i gotta find out where im at somewhow it seems a little rich but im just not experienced enough to be sure, it does pretty well usually but when i really want to romp on it it still runs really funny when i start getting into the higher rpms, i dont think it has been over 4k rpm because it just runs like crap at that point mostly. once in a blue moon it will let me carry the revs fairly smoothly but it stil cuts out a bit when i wind it up that high, i dont think its the fuel supply i have a aftermarket fuel pump but i dont have a permanent fuel pressure gauge so i cant be sure. will try to plumb my test gauge up and set it on the vents above the hood so i can see what its doing while i am driving and not just sitting at idle
the low gas prices are making getting out and driving it a little more managable but it is getting HORRIBLE mileage thanks to the bad gearing and way i built the engine, if my speedo/odo worked i could get an idea of the mileage but its pretty much a shot in the dark right now and seems to change pretty wildly. always carry a couple extra gallons in the bed when i do drive it
working on trying to start a business so hopefully one of these days i can find a good deal on a used or new wideband o2 setup and figure out exactly where im at with my tune and try to find tune it, if i had the money to blow i would just go mpfi and a standalone but thats a couple years out

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:11 pm 
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Drove the truck up to Kent and back down getting parts for my Subaru and it drove great. Kept it real slow around 50-55 so 22-2600rpm and got fair mileage. Not sure of the numbers but much better than higher speeds didn't get close to empty on the way.

I'm thinking my float level is the cause of my WOT problem need to get in there and adjust them but I have been using the truck to haul building supplies and such. Have spent the last 9 days at the hospital with my son so no chance to work on it but I'm pretty sure its my float level.
Still looking for wider rear tires but not gonna have any spending money for a little while. May get lucky and find 3 good wheels and a flat and just have a spare rear and one to scrap

Still really need to get in and fix the wiring to my fuel gauge I'm sure I just cut the wrong wire out should be able to install the luv temp sensor off my old intake and get my temp gauge working

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:30 pm 
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Looking to get out of the hospital today hopefully if all is still well, tomorrow if not
so hopefully I will get the chance to adjust my floats and see if it solves my WOT stuttering

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