LUVTruck.com

I am not extremely mechanically inclined, i've replaced small things like alternators, volt regs, fuel pumps, but never something as large and intricate as a carb. I've watched the weber 38 install videos a couple of times but am a little weary because i don't have a grinder (i saw at one point in time during the video he had to grind a piece to make it fit.) That was one problem i was worried about, the second was taking the old linkage, drilling a hole in it somewhere so that it will fit to the new linkage. Is that a necessary step? That part made about 0 sense to me. And lastly, connecting and plugging various hoses when the whole job is said and done. I don't wanna dick it up with air going it to a gas port or vice versa or actually, i don't even know if anything i just said there is even possible. I guess my question is, with mediocre mechanical skills should i take a shot at this or am i better off taking it to a mechanic that may or may not know anything about the luv truck? That's a loaded question, telling me i am a dumbass is an acceptable response. Thanks.

Could you meet yourself halfway and have a mechanically-inclined friend guide you through it?

If you're unsure about it, you might not want to risk having an undriveable vehicle. It's not too hard, but do make sure you know what you're doing before you bury yourself too deep.

Depending on where you live someone might be willing to help you.

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1978 LUV Custom - 1979 LUV stock

Thanks for the responses, i live in near Kansas City Kansas, but even if someone was close i wouldn't wanna drag em out to help me, i know most people got better things to do then fix my junk and listen to me tell terrible stories. So what i decided to do was say f*** it and give it a go myself. I have my vegetarian roommate from the city helping me, he should be useful seeing as how last week he accidentally poured oil in to the gas tank of our mower because he didn't know which hole it went in. Should be interesting. I do have one question though...

HOW important is it to keep the old linkage vs using the stock linkage provided with the weber? That is the one step that i feel will give me the most trouble.

PS. Just removed the old carb and gaskets.. fixing to quicksteel the egr hole and start assembling gaskets. Feeling good.

Well, it appears that the redline kit throttle assembly won't correctly attach to my throttle cable so i guess it is 100% necessary to use my old linkage. Damn.

yeah i had to ghetto rig my attachment point with the redline kit

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Yeah mine is ugly as sin but its running! I think it's running a little rich (backfires occasionally coming down from high RPM's but i'll take it since i'm not that mechanically inclined. Top speed went from 52 to 60 comfortably. With some tuning on that carb by somebody that's not me, that speed could turn in to 65! I do have three questions tho that i am attaching photos with.

Figure 1:
This tiny little gold screw goes in to a plastic piece attached to the automatic choke. I screwed it out, like an idiot, so then i screwed it in then out again then in again. I don't know where it is supposed to be. The choke plates close after the truck has been sitting for a minute it and open (sit vertically) after i start and run the truck. If those positions are correct, maybe i lucked out and placed this screw back in the correct location.


Figure 2: the air filter came with a white plastic L shaped tube that come out the bottom side of the air filter, am i supposed to connect it to anything or plug it off? Follow up question, there is a 6" black hose coming off the top of the oil pan, it used to be connected to the old air filter. Do i need to plug that or somehow connect it to the small white plastic L?

Figure 3: The mesh looking hose that comes off my emissions BS... same question, plug it or don't worry about it? I should probably just do a smog delete but i will save that project for another day. Baby steps.

I'm not sure exactly what screw you are referring to, if it has to do with the choke it will get fixed in the adjustment process. There is a ton of tuning instructions for these carbs available online for free if you don't have copies
Connect the black hose coming from the top of the valve cover to the plastic "L" in the bottom of the new air cleaner. This allows filtered make-up air into the crankcase to replace that being vented into the intake by the PCV port. It's better to use oil-resistant hose (like low pressure fuel line) but you may not can find anything the proper size. It would be fine to use two short sections of the existing hose at each end as a splice connector for a piece of metal pipe (possibly copper water pipe or conduit?) in the middle. You can find and use heater hose but it may get soft over time.
Make sure the vacuum end of the PCV is still connected, it comes off the top edge of the valve cover just in front of the carb & goes to a nipple at the carb base or maybe into the intake just below the carb base. Chances are you didn't disconnect it. Check everywhere for cracked vacuum hoses & plugs and ports that need to be plugged.
The fabric covered hose supplies air to the air pump for injection into the exhaust ports, normally it's hooked to the bottom of the stock air cleaner similar to the PCV hose. The Weber has no provisions to re-attach it. Is the pump functional? Will it remain functional? If so put some type filter on the end of the pump intake. If not toss the hose & the pump.
Both my engines have everything removed but the PCV (both ends) & vacuum to the distributor & brake booster & run just fine.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

I couldn't find anything about this small, third miscellaneous screw up by the choke so i am just going to leave it be. The truck starts on the first crank almost every time and i took it out today and it got 31 mpg (@50mph) with two people and two push mowers in the back, i'd say that isn't too bad! Although, everybody on the highway was annoyed and blowing my doors off since the speed limit was 70. Hopefully with the pertronix ignition coming in next week that MPG number will go up even higher. Also, thinking about deleting the smog stuff to see if that will help at all.

As far as plugged lines go, i only have two, one comes from the fuel tank and used to be hooked up right beside my main fuel line to the hitachi carb. The other small line i plugged i think had something to do with my EGR? Maybe? Hell i don't know. The first instructions said "remove and mark all hoses" i immediately removed all hoses and disregarded the rest of the directions.

As far as the black hose coming off the oil pan and going to the white "L" coming out of the air filter, i bought a piece of hose from Ace hardware and it wasn't quite long enough to attach it without having kinks that would block air flow. So like any lazy red blooded American, i attached the new hose to the "L." Attached the old hose to the oil pan. Butted the two ends together and had my vegan roommate hold them together while i electrical taped the s*** out of them. Probably a terrible idea, but so was splicing two computer speakers in to the cd player and they seem to be working fine, for now. (I'll post pictures later)

As far as the cloth covered hose coming from the smog unit that i needed to put a filter on... I found an old sock, stuck the hose in it, and put a hose clamp around it. Stuffed the hose up to the side by the fuse box so the sock wouldn't catch on fire and that's where it rode during my 30 mile journey to check my mpg.

All in all, extremely half-assed, with extremely temporary, great results.

Stay tuned.

the hose coming up from the oil pan is a vapor vent. i ran it to a weber vacuum port
the emissions junk can be removed fairly easily. the egr is the copper pipe from exhaust to under intake manifold. u would need to remove it and plug both ends
the smog pump and air injection rail over the exhaust mani can go. u can plug those four holes with spark plugs or a 14mm x1.25 thread plug
i removed everything from mine that wasnt necessary to make it run

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

The best combo I found for my 76 was a Weber on an Offi with a Headman header. All the parts were 50 state legal parts. What I did here in Ca was not drill out any of the smog holes . I attached all of the smog tube/hoses up to blocked off areas. I used the base of the stock air cleaner and cut the sides off at the outer edge of the air filter. I used an aftermarket air filter and aftermarket air cleaner top . By doing this it would pass visual smog inspection. They were all easy bolt on parts. The only thing I had to have someone else do ,was the 2 1/2" exhaust.

Cool guys, thanks for the info, I'll definitely look back on it when it's time to remove the emissions BS. Also, my pertronix came in yesterday so that will be going on Wednesday hopefully. I've seen a couple articles on here, seems like it shouldn't be that difficult. Key word shoudlnt.

Lastly, what the hell do I do with the stock carb and air cleaner? I don't ever plan on putting it back on so do I just junk it? They got any use for it at a salvage yard?

Hang on to em if you can afford the space. A user here will be desperate for parts sooner or later, and it's always nice to get them from someone in your situation.

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75 Mikado G180/4sp Desert Tortoise

How much do you want for the stock carb and cleaner there is a local guy in ma I talked to yesterday with one and he is looking for a backup. He is missing like one part on his. I figured I'd help him out and find the parts for him. I found interesting info here I'm telling him abou the webber and about your carb he might want truck completely stock. What years does the carb fit? He has a. 76 automatic I believe

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Chad Frigon

Idk, what's a good price? $100? I spent $50 rebuilding the thing a few months ago. Carb is stock and all there EXCEPT for the throttle linkage that I had to take off and throw on the weber carb. Carb and cleaner came off of a 1980 4x4 manual luv. I believe it's the same set up as the 76 but I could be talking out my ass.