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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:49 pm 
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It is really common for the timing to get done wrong on these trucks. I had one that I fought with off and on for years that never ran, until I swapped around the plug wires. If you have two cylinders out of 4 that are not firing, it takes 30 seconds to trade the plug wire positions on the cap and verify nothing is backwards. If no change you eliminated something, swap back and move on. I've had a LUV that I had to do this to, and once picked up a very poorly running Volvo 4cyl that ended up running great after swapping two plug wires the dreaded prior owner had wired wrong. The point was that it is very easy to check and eliminate, and totally would explain the problem you are seeing.

I'm a bit curious about this carb you have. It doesn't sound quite like anything I've seen on a LUV before. Any way you can get a few pictures of that up here? I've seen Webers and rebranded Webers, but that is about it. I think I've heard the name Elkton associated with Motorcraft before, but I don't know about the part number. I think there was a version of the Weber 32/36 made for Fords that was rebadged as a Motorcraft part number, 5100 I believe, and I think it bolted straight to the intake. There is also a Motorcraft 2100 that might bolt to the Weber adapter plates that fit a LUV. Both are 2Bbl carbs though, so who knows what you have there. Pics, please. :)

As I been saying a while, compression test will eliminate or confirm most all of the worst causes of the problems you have. Once you have those numbers you will know if it is even worth proceeding on this engine or if you need to really tear into it. Plugs, wires, spark and fuel are irrelevant if you can't get above about 60-70PSI of compression at the LEAST.

Oldestisuzuist has a lot of good tips and techniques for puzzling out what is going on in the engine. Those tips for figuring out intake vs exhaust valve problems remind me I need to get a remote starter button. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:09 pm 
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Location: Greenbrier, AR
Thanks for everyone's input on this beastly engine problem. I did do the wire swap once again today. Results are as follows....would not even crank and was backfiring thru the carb. Switched them back....fires up but runs on 2 cylinders, 1 and 3. I can pull 2 off and it does not change the way it runs at all. If I pull 4 off it runs a little worse. Its almost like 4 is trying but 2 has just given up. I pull 1 or 3 off and the truck misses severely and would die if I left the plug wire off. I have it to where it will start easily, but it will not smooth out. I have the compression tester on the way, I found one for $15. I didnt think that was too bad. Got the front glass out today. Thinking about chopping the top!!!! I will try to post some pics for you guys.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Here she is!!
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Love the flames!!! I think I will leave them on there........

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:00 pm 
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That carb is one of the oddest things I've ever seen attached to a LUV. I did find something that looks very similar on ebay With lots of pics here. Looks pretty close and they say its for a Dodge Slant 6 from the 70s. All I can say is wow, someone got creative. Could have been decades ago too. Looks like it has an adapter plate under the carb that bolts to the stock intake, probably hand fabricated and one of a kind.

Given that, who knows what else could be lurking on this truck. There could be all kinds of not stock parts or creative modifications.

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77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:11 pm 
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That was a great job finding one that was extremely similar!!!! Following your lead and looking at other carbs, it greatly resembles the Holley model 1945.........What do you think?? Yes the adaptor plate is handmade. It is kind of rough but I guess it does the job. The carb seems to do the job, but maybe upgrade when I get the motor lined out. Tks 800!!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:39 pm 
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My next question is .................would a 4.3L out of a 92 s10 work in my truck? The s10 is a 5 speed. Would there have to be any mods done.?
Thanks!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:02 pm 
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www.powerbyace.com has mounts and headers for a 4.3. That transmission is a nv3500. I had one for a while behind my v8. It's a tight fit with the headers. I had to cut on the bellhousing to get it all in.

You'll need a different radiator. It's a lot of work.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:33 am 
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Ok, so while I possibly have the 1.8l out for rebuild, which engines do I need to keep my out for that would work the best with the Luv?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 1:11 pm 
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Are you looking for a temporary swap? I don't understand going through all the trouble of fitting another drivetrain just to pull it later to put the stock one back in.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 1:54 pm 
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cmont1124 wrote:
Ok, so while I possibly have the 1.8l out for rebuild, which engines do I need to keep my out for that would work the best with the Luv?


What did you find on the 1.8L that has you thinking rebuild, low compression numbers on those cylinders?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:27 pm 
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I got my tester today, so I will be chekn sunday for the compression numbers.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:34 pm 
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Only another Isuzu 4 cylinder engine will bolt to your tranny, 1.8, 1.9, 2.3 or 2.6 will all fit with increasing mods required as the size increases.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:06 pm 
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Ok, gents the verdict is in.............1 and 4 have 120 psi compression. 3 and 2 have a whopping 0psi. Seems I have a little situation with my engine, huh? Let me know what you think. I as much figured but it is now confirmed.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:08 pm 
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Blown head gasket

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:27 pm 
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Agreed.
It could also be a cracked head, but gasket blown between 2 and 3 is most likely. That would also explain why oil and water are not mixing too. Usually that and massive amounts of steam out the tailpipe are the signs of headgasket problems, but if it blows between two cylinders then no steam or oil/water mixing.

I suppose it is *possible* that it could be destroyed piston rings, or horribly burnt valves.


Just as a last ditch check, have you adjusted the valves or at least checked that the rocker arms have some slack in them when the valves should be closed? Valves way too tight could cause low/no compression.

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86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:07 pm 
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I have checked the valves and they do have a little slack at close. Gasket between 2 and 3 likely, as you said. No water in oil and no steam from tailpipe. Looks like I will be digging into it!!! Thanks for your help! Will post what I find.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:34 pm 
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Well, here's the pistons they dont look too bad.
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Here's the culprit! Good job on diagnosing!

There is alot of carbon buildup on the valves and sludge around the cam. What is the best way to clean it up? Also how do I clwan up the piston tops? Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:17 pm 
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You said 2&3 had 0 compression, the thread says 2&4 are not firing then a picture shows up with 3&4 cylinders that should be 0 compression. Do you know what cylinders are what?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:23 pm 
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My mistake. 3 and 4 cylinders are the ones messed up. And I hope I do or I am totally screwed.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 12:21 pm 
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Well it had been leaking for a while because of the carbon build up between the cylinders.Have you head machined while you have it off.Have them shave a couple of thousandths off so it is straight and will help compression.I would have Vitron seals put on the valves..they help oil consumption and last longer than the umbrella seals.Three angle valve job too.


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