LUVTruck.com

I am looking into getting a CalTrac type traction bar setup for my LUV. I found some solid info on the website "Hotrods and Hemi's.
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

The thing that concerns me is the bell crank. The math called out would make the bell crank too small to fit and i doubt it would put much force to the leafspring.
Their situation deals with a single leaf, whereas a LUV leaf is doubled to the bushing. Axle wrap really isn't an issue with my truck at the moment but I'm ready to replace the 3rd member with a 3.70 posi unit. The tires are pathetic, traction wise. These things break loose like a locomotive spinning on the rails. Right now, the gears are 2.75, open diff. The gear change should be quite noticable.
The motor itself is a very clean running 400 SBC with AFR 1036 heads and a Comp cam that just barely works with a stock torque converter.
I could go with traditional slapper bars but the CalTrac system seems to be the better way to go. If anyone has built a set for a LUV, I would like to hear any input you may have. Thank you...

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Thanks!

SRAD

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My Wife is faster than you think you are

???

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I have been through this twice . The standard leaf for the Luv is narrower than the 3" DOdge or Chevy version that is probably ( havent checked the link ) listed . I took a set of Caltracs for a Luv and installed them outside of the hanger ( same principal ) Here is a current picture .

The front fulcrum assembly has to be removed and metal welded in to allow for a standard style front leaf spring bolt . I did this with steel stock from the hardware store and a hole saw of the correct size to fill the void , then mig welded the "puck" into the front spring perch . I used grade 8 1/2" i believe front eye bolt . I also had to compensate for the difference left between the "new" front bolt and the thicker fulcrum assembly that was removed . What i am calling the fulcrum bolts in from the outside . I did this with Steel tubing from the metal bin at the hardware store and metal spacer sleeves found at Tractor supply ( actually Lowe's hardware has them also ) . I pressed the spacers into the tubing and made bushings for the front eye of the leaf springs . The width of these is the inside diameter of the front spring perch to keep the spring rubber from binding . The pivots for the caltracs to swing on were made for the shoulders of 3/8" corbon steel black pippe coupling with a section of nipple screwed in and cut off . this gave me the needed outside diameter and 1/2" I.D for front spring bolt . 4 of these were fabbed and trimmed / adjusted ( 4 inch grinder ) to proper spacing that would allow the fulcrum in the front to swing freely without binding . I used Nylon style locknuts to keep everything from binding due to over tightening .

That being said , so far i have gone the wrong way . I did all this and took a truck that would consist 1.43- 1.45 60' on motor and went to a 1.5? on motor with a best to date of 1.45 on spray . I took 3.5 degrees of pinion angle out for a nosed down of 4 degrees . I will be putting a slick on the truck and trying to get it to work . If i cant , i will pull it all off and put the 3.5 back in it and run it with no bars at all again . Sorry for the long write up i intended to do a install thread later . I will look up all the pics and try to explain it better with pics .

I'm Sorry... I couldn't focus on your write up because i was gawking at that sweet ass disk brake setup!!!
Did you remove any leafs? From the pic, It looks like the second one was missing.
I never found a CalTrac system that was specific to a LUV on the web. But it seems that the distance from the leaf spring bolt to the rod end bolt is the same as the distance to the pressure point bolt. So having the pressure point contact the top leaf between the bolt and 2nd leaf really isn't that crucial?
The end result is basically the same though you had to modify exsisting parts whereas the link site built a set from stock.
A full writeup on your part would be fantastic. I hope there's plenty of pics too.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

The spring is stock un altered from factory . The second leaf goes up to the spring eye. The center link needs to be a 1/4" longer to work properly in the lower hole . I will work on a write up this weekend . IMO it is cheaper to buy them from calvert vs fab them , but that is my opinion .

These have been around a long time. Have some advantages over most traction bars for the street and will give some ride. Regular traction bars actually bind as the rear end moves up and down.
If you fab your own, use right and left heims and make the back heim center point 6.5" below the center of the axle. You must run 15" wheels. Race only go 7".
Excellant starting points are;
Street; adjust the right side to contact spring about 1/4" sooner than left side.

Race; adjust the right side to just contact spring and the left side about 1/2" off.

If the truck wants to go to the left, open up the right side diminsion on the street. Shorten the left side on the race track.
You will be surprised at the bite these will give.

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The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!