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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:29 pm 
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Ok, I think I've finally figured it all out. My truck is smoking, its overheating still after replacing the radiator/cap/hoses and belts, and the cylinder vacuum is erratic. I'm convinced its the head gasket. What ultimately tipped me off was while I was trying to fix the overheating problem, I flushed the system by running the hose through it backwards. After I got it all back together, I tried to start it but it cranked, rumbled and blew water out the tail pipe. Water got in the cylinders. I'm also worried that I've warped the cylinder head too (especially after overheating it REALLY bad one day :? ).

So now I have to face the issue. I'm 19, a full time student, and the luv is supposed to me my daily driver (I'm borrowing a car from my parents right now, but they need it back soon). I have a buddy with a garage and tools that I can use, but I don't have much time to work on it, even less money. I've found a complete cylinder head for about $175, but I'll need gaskets, rings and pistons (to be safe) and to have the cylinder honed, I might need a thermostat or a water pump if the overheating issue isn't just the head gasket, I still need to pay registration (I'm running on temporary plates, it still hasn't passed emissions), and what else? I'm worried about finding something else I'll have to replace while I have it apart and end up getting screwed. I'd have to sell it as is, running or not :x . At least now it runs (sorta) and someone could drive it home.

I've rebuilt a quad (put rings and a clutch in it), but never a truck. What else will I need, and how much will it all cost? I've got a good deal on the cylinder head, but I've only got about $350 total to invest in the luv (not counting for registration). I'm worried cuz if it goes over that, then it'll be a lost cause. I'm debating fixing it, or selling it for $800 or so and getting a different cheap used car (finance it or something, idk) :econfused .

Basically, do you guys think I can fix the luv with $350, fairly good mechanical skills, and my buddies help, or should I bail and look for something else? If I do try to fix it, what all could I run into? Its a 1978 with 172,000 miles on it, so its getting up there. I love the luv, but I need a functioning vehicle. Help!! 8O

,Brian

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:39 pm 
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DO just the head. If the one you found is fresh, go that route, if it is one that has been pulled off another engine with no machine work, pull yours and have a competent machine shop inspect it, may be cheaper in the long run. Having the head resurfaced will go a long way towards preventing a reoccurance of the issue. Replace the thermostat is good insurance, it's cheap. I would hold off on the pistons/rebuild if funds are limited...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:48 pm 
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hey man im 19 too and had to replace the head gasket in mine...if the head is straight you can use it...im guessing a shop would cost aroud 200 to get that resurfaced just make shure you torque those bolts in order


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:22 pm 
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Replacing the head gasket is a lot of work and a gasket set pricy. I agree if the $175 head hasn't been rebuilt, have a shop inspect yours. Rebuilding and resurfacing should be less if it isn't cracked. Even a cracked head can be welded.

Tighten the cylinder head bolts working up to 72 ftpound in the following pattern starting with the one in the middle of the driver's side and ending at the back on the passenger's side.
732610
84159

Unless you really messed it up, you shouldn't need the pistons and rings now.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:41 pm 
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i had the same problem.


in most cases, if you have the time to put into it, you can get the head done in a day or two depending on parts availability and machineshop workload.

this is a thread i started when i had my gasket blow. (well, in reality, i bought the truck that way)

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=20873

first and foremost. source your parts.

and BE ORGANIZED when doing this procedure. you will REALLY regret losing parts. trust me.

now go get'r done!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Wow! I just read through your thread Figuarus and holy crap!!! This is going to help me out ALOT!! I feel like I can do this now, lol. THANKS!!! It'll be my guide next to the service manual, lol :lol:

So you guys don't think I'll have to replace the pistons or rings? Its smoking really bad right now, could that just be the head or the head gasket? The quad I rebuilt was smoking bad also and I only replaced the rings. The piston ended up disintigrating about 15 riding hours after the rings install so I had to go in there again and replace the whole thing. :( 'Course that was a basket case, lol.

I sure hope I won't have to replace the pistons and rings and hone it and crap, but it almost feels like I'd be cutting corners if I didn't. I found the cylinder head listed here in the classifieds. Dan had the whole thing rebuilt and ground it (I LOVE ur truck dan btw), so its a pretty good deal. I was originally hoping I could just bolt his on with a new gasket set, but do you think that would take care of all the problems? (smoking, overheating, and crazy vacuum readings at idle). Ya, the thermostat is cheap, I'll get that tomorrow and try it out. :) Man I hope its that simple, I've just been screwed too many times, lol

Oh, and I wasn't using being 19 as an excuse or anything, just to help people better understand the situation. Not trying to sound whiney or anything, just trying to be practical. :eugeek lol


:twisted: HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!!!!! :twisted: :microwave:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:39 pm 
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don't worry about the pistons just yet. the main concern is the cylinder head and it's components.

when you get done, do a compression check and then give us the figures.

if you have any questions, you can PM me or call or whatever

in regards to the pistons, unless you can see ALOT of wear on the cylinder walls, i wouldn't worry about it. Take lots of pictues and just be organized when you do all of this.

take your cylinder head to a machine shop once it's stripped and get it inspected. or you can use a straight edge to check it yourself.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:27 pm 
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Depending which parts of the head gasket are leaking, you can have all sorts of problems. The smoke could be from rings, valve guides, or oil leaking past the gasket into the combustion chamber. Other leaks likely are causing the other problems. Does your friend have much head gasket experience?

An early step is to turn the #4 cylinder to top dead center and note the position of the camshaft. A mark on it and the camshaft bracket should be lined up.

Remove the camshaft and head. Leave the valves on it. The shop has the tools and experience to remove it. Also the valve guide seals. The gasket kit has new seals. Let the shop install them.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:33 am 
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And when you're done do an oil change in case the coolant made it past your rings. Even if your rings are on their way out it should still run well enough once there's only gas and air in the combustion chamber.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 9:53 am 
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Yes, the oil change is an essential. Depending how bad it looks when it comes out, you may want to drop the pan to get the last of the old oil out.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 2:12 am 
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Ok, so here are the compression test numbers:


Cylinder 1 (front, closest to radiator):
95+100+105+105+102=101.4
-plug was wet - yellow & green color

Cylinder 2:
90+90+90+87+87=88.8
-plug was damp - brownish color

Cylinder 3:
89+85+84+85+84=85.4
-plug was wet - reddish color

Cylinder 4:
100+97+97+98+99=98.2
-plug was dry - brownish/blackish color

These numbers are low right? I think its supposed to in the 130's about.

Do you guys think that there could be anything else involved besides the head or head gasket?

Also, I've started another thread in the 'Build' section where I'll be posting my progress on the project. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:08 am 
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From those numbers, it seems like you MAY have a blown gasket between the no's 1 and 2 cylinders. just to double check, you did re insert each plug when you did the test right? if you did, go back and test those two cylinders and this time leave the plug out. if the figures come back lower, i can almost guarantee that this is the location of the blown area.

for the moment, concentrate on the head and then once it's off, you can inspect the cylinders and decide whether you need anything else.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:07 am 
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The adjacent 2 and 3 being low strongly suggests a bad gasket. You could try squirting some oil in the spark plug holes and rechecking. If that brings the compression up, It could mean rings.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:28 pm 
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Numbers seem a bit low. Did you check the compression properly? Throttle must be held wide open for the test. Engine needs maximum air inflow.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Wait, the throttle has to be wide open? :oops: Ok, no I didn't have it open. I cranked it with no throttle. Actually, I bet the choke was engaged also because the engine was cool. Ugh, I guess I'll go test it again :roll: I'll have to add a bit of oil to the cylinders too after the first round to see if the results change. Haha, just another sign of my ignorance, lol :lol:

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