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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:15 am 
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O.k. so my luv ran fine, then one day a rain storm dropped 2.5 inches of rain overnight & the hood was not shut all the way. Now it wont keep running. Replaced the cap, rotor, spark wires & plug's. Good compression & getting spark. Fuel is going to the Carb. So what gives? Please help. I wonder if the rain messed a connector for electronics going to the carb. Could that be the issue? It act's like it's getting not enough air or is all air in the carb. All Vac. lines are fine. Is there a ecm somewhere that controls the electronics on the carb? Everything is stock too.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:59 pm 
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da LUV masta

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Location: Redfield SD
More than likely you got water in the carb. Try removing the air cleaner and spray carb cleaner down the carb and see if it will start.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:49 am 
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da LUV masta

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Check the choke too and the float in the carb. The level of gas should be in the middle of the little window in the front of the float bowl. The float can stick in either the up or down position.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:28 pm 
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Location: Pima, Arizona
After you check that check your fuse panel for the regulator fuse (should be the fourth position starting from the front). If thats blown it won't stay idling or start easy.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:01 pm 
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The choke is free moving & the glass sight was showing 1/2 way to the white dot. Then after being cranked for about 10 seconds, it raised tvery close to the dot. I tried spraying it to start and no go. sometimes after a long period of running the starter, it may fire on a few cylinders. BUt wont catch. Plug's aren't fouled either. Not wet, except # 4 cylinder, but it is only 10 pounds off the other 3 in compression. I noticed one vac. hose is cracked where it meets the nipple where it runs from carb. to intake. The carb is leaking some gas from the riser and other gaskets are bad off. So I bought a rebuild kit and when I removed the carb, the fluid sitting in the manifold doesn't look like good gas. So did a glass jar fill from the gas lines that run to the carb and that is way normal & clean looking. I will see if I can attach the photo' It looks off to me. Will look into the fues panel. BUt I know the Volt. regulator is getting power and charging the relay to run the pump.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:37 pm 
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12.52 DC volts with all switches off & all battery cables clamped to posts(But the heater has no off switch). Then the following with the neg. cable off the batt. post, with a volt meter touching the batt. post(-) and the other lead on the clamp of the ground cable, making sure not to touch anything with the neg. cable clamp.
(Ignition Switch) (Voltage-DC)
Off 12.25
Acc 12.40
On 12.47
Start 12.47


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:48 pm 
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have you checked the anti diesel solenoid ? if it is stuck closed it will not start...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:07 pm 
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I did rebuild the stock DCH 340 carb & had it off. Cleaned it up. It seems to have movement but Don't know how to tell if it is closing the valve or it is open. Does it close the valve when it loses power to it? I should be getting 12 vdc when the ign, switch is in on or start right? But that still doesn't tell me why I have voltage running through my ground system. Or is there always some voltage there? I put my volt meter to the battery + post and then to the + post of the coil and it reads 11 vdc. Trippy to me man. I TY for all the help and advice being given.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:01 am 
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dont know about the other but it does close when power is off... if you unplug it and power it direct you should hear it click open and then closed when you remove the power from it...
some times the sing. switch do go out and can cause all kinds of problems... do you have another switch to try?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 1:28 am 
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sing switch? Are you reffering to a signal switch? If I was to unplug switches one at a time from my dash, maybe then one that may have the short will make it's self known. It did rain real hard for one day then all this crap started happening. I noticed some rain water on the floor of the cab, as well as alittle water on the heater vent.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:44 am 
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sorry it was to be the ignition switch...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:57 am 
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Thanks for the clarification. I don't have another one(ign. switch). I just pulled the fuse box, fuses, wires to the fuse box & am cleaning it up currently as it is super corroded. With all the fuses pulled, I'm getting 1.5 vdc between the neg. battery post & the groung cable. So that's down from the 7-10 vdc I was getting with all the fuses in. I have been getting alot of moisture in the cab from the rain. I did pull the ign. switch plug from it in the beginning to see if it was causing the short, but the voltage didn't drop at all. Am I doing this all the right way? This all sucks as one day it was working, then the next....not(after the rainstorm)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:50 pm 
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Done. So now at 5.5 vdc without any fuses in. Then put 1 in at a time & the voltage never changed until I put the horn fuse in, then it went to 10.5 vdc, then when the tail fuse was put in, it went to 11.5 vdc. Now where?


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