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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 12:55 pm 
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da LUV masta
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I have the truck apart enough to replace the chain. Don't really want to do it but I'm thinking since the car has over 100K. How do you check it? Anybody have pics on the chain timing marks to reference by? Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:10 pm 
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da LUV masta
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This is what I'm working with

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:20 pm 
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da LUV masta
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I can move the balancer from 0 to 12 before the gear starts to move. Is this normal, seems exclusive to me? But when balancer is at 0 my cam gear is at 0.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:35 pm 
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da LUV masta
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But when balancer is at 0 or 12 my cam gear is at 0.



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:29 pm 
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da LUV masta
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After almost having it together. I called the guy I got the LUV from and ask if the chain was replaced, he didn't know. I could not chance it, I'm replacing the chain.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:44 pm 
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da LUV masta
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With the tentioner released chain don't look good-
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:48 pm 
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da LUV masta
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It matches the pic in my book though??????????????? I'm playing it safe and changing it any way

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:05 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Now the book says to measure the distance between 40 links of the chain, from pin center-to-pin center. If the distance exceeds 15.16 inches the chain must be replaced. What is 15.16 inches? Is this a mis print, what is the actual figure?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:55 pm 
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da LUV masta
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15 1/16 = 15.0625, 15 1/8 = 15.125

Sounds like that's a chain stretch measurement. I do know that bicycle chains stretch some, that appears to be the same design.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:49 am 
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eln1972luv wrote:
15 1/16 = 15.0625, 15 1/8 = 15.125

Sounds like that's a chain stretch measurement. I do know that bicycle chains stretch some, that appears to be the same design.


That makes more sense, 15.160, thanks.

I ordered a Cloyes timing set today and should have it by Fri. I will compare it. The gears had a little sharp edge and the chain sides had wear marks, but it look ok. If it turns out to be close I will keep this chain as a spare, and if it doesn't then it gets tossed. What's funny is I did everything to avoid taking the timing cover off when my balancer got loose. Had it almost all together when something just told me timing chain. I replaced the water pump so I would not be doing this again anytime soon, then the same thought went through me on the timing chain. So I tore it apart to make sure I could get to the chain adjusters and order the complete set from Autozone.

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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalo ... entId=51-0

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:38 am 
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that is 38.5 cm or 385 mm if you have a way to check it

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:41 pm 
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In the pics you posted it looks like you were at 15.125 which is still ok.

Chains are usually considered maintenance free if the vehicle has been kept up with regular oil changes. It's usually the guides and tensioners that wear before the chain. You can usually hear worn/stretched chains since it will rattle on startup.

Also, the movement you had between the cam gear and crank could be artificially bad since the tensioner is not pumped up (well, that is, if this engine uses an oil pressurized tensioner).

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:37 am 
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ctmandu wrote:
that is 38.5 cm or 385 mm if you have a way to check it

Thanks, I used an online converter and here is what I found.


http://www.metric-conversions.org/length-conversion.htm


38.5cm=15.157in round it off=15.16in

15.125in=38.4cm

15.16in=38.5cm

It all makes more sense now, thanks everyone.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:44 am 
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mafoose wrote:
In the pics you posted it looks like you were at 15.125 which is still ok.

Chains are usually considered maintenance free if the vehicle has been kept up with regular oil changes. It's usually the guides and tensioners that wear before the chain. You can usually hear worn/stretched chains since it will rattle on startup.

Also, the movement you had between the cam gear and crank could be artificially bad since the tensioner is not pumped up (well, that is, if this engine uses an oil pressurized tensioner).


Thanks, I have to agree with you, chain seems ok, but I think the tensioners are worn. It's spring loaded and it seems very easy to release the tension on it. I learn my lesson when I replaced a belt on a Mazda and didn't change the roller tensioner. A month later I was doing it again when the roller tensioner seized and broke my new belt and had to pay to tow it home.

I went ahead and order the complete set, Cloyes had it. I use a lot of their chains on SBC with very good results.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:49 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Found the thread on timing chain.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12104&hilit=install+timing+chain

luv3798 wrote:
Install the chain with the larger number of links (50) between mark plates (1) and (2) facing toward the chain guide. (Fig. 4)
Align lower mark plate with bottom index mark on crank sprocket (Fig. 3).
If automatic adjuster was removed, re-install the adjuster. Set adjuster shoe in the fully retracted position (Fig. 2).
Align camshaft sprocket index mark with upper mark link and secure with mechanic wire (Fig. 1).
this info goes with this pic.
this is for removing timing chain, which i suppose you didnt do. but it might be helpful info.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:19 am 
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Changed the timing chain thread into a "sticky".


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:23 am 
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da LUV masta
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Ben wrote:
Changed the timing chain thread into a "sticky".

Thanks

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