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long story short my truck sat for a few years and i finally started working it. i replaced the cylinder head, points, condenser, cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, and carb (Weber 32/36 DGV). the ignition timing and valve timing are where they should be. it takes a good 5 min or more to get it started when its cold. once warmed up it idles great and cruizes good. starting from a dead stop or low rpm (1k-2k) it studders/bogs down occasionally dying. points gap is set to .018 and plug gap is set to .030. i've spent a long time working on this thing trying to get it right and after spending so much money i am half tempted to spend the money to convert it to fuel injection. can anyone help me out with some ideas before i waste more money?


....also, the distributor and coil were replaced approx. 7k-8k miles ago

you say it was sitting for a while right?

did you do the other obvious changes? oil, fuel, air etc?

also, check all the vacuum lines as over time they crack or harden and dont seal correctly. make sure the advance is connected. and make sure you have the idle mixture set correctly

also, post some pics if you could, that will help us look at something you might have overlooked

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

What kind of plugs are you using? I put bosch platinums on my truck once and It ran not so good,

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1980 4x4

i did have bosch plugs in it but i changed them out for autolite's which is what i have always ran just wanted to try something new. all the fluids are new as well along with the air filter...i will try to get some pics on here after i get off work in a few hrs.

make sure your air/fuel mixture is correct. if it sputters at low idle and runs rough it might be because of air/fuel mixture.
if you have a weber carb the mixture screw is right underneath the electric choke. check vacuum lines and make sure the carb is sitting on there tight or else air can get in underneath the carb and make it run like that. the way you find out if it has a leak underneath the carb is you spray some carb cleaner underneath at the base of the carb while its running. its the idle speeds up then you have a vacuum leak underneath your carb.

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i'll give that a shot...what is the dwell suppose to be set at? i tried uploading some pics but it wouldnt work.

The dgv is a manual choke isnt it? I have a hitachi. Five minutes is a long time to start. Make sure when you pull the choke that it is closing properly. There is an article in the drivetrain upgrades section on page four by Tumwatertaz that has a lot of usefull and understandable info in it all in one place, 38/38 dges carb 101. yours is 32/36 dgv but a lot of it is general for webers I think. Just trying to help, good luck What year is your truck? I think the dwell is supposed to be 52. Or in a range between 47 and 57. I could be wrong.

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1980 4x4

it is a manual choke, the dwell is set to about 50/52 so i guess its good...so far i have had better luck starting it without using the choke but i am still experimenting. my truck is a 76.

well i believe i got it...thanks for the input!

What was wrong, if you don't mind explaining?

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.