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well i think i finally pushed my luv too far, i was driving around for 5 miles like i usually do in my luv, unfortunately it overheated and my water temp got to 240 that night so i waited for it to cool down to 130 to start it again so i drove for another 2 miles to get back to the base and it got up to 220 again, i got it back to the base later and by the time i shut it off in the parking lot it was back at 230, i let it sit for a week or so before i even turned it on. its a week later and i decited to start it up tonight to find that there was steam coming from the engine bay, (i couldnt see beacuse it was dark, and my exhost is smokey , i cant smell what it is but it smells like normal does. i'm afraid that i might have cracked my block, the engine sounds like it normally does, but i guess i'll wait till tomorrow to see if its accually cracked or just what the problem is , if not then well looks like i'm looking for another engine wish me luck

This is the stock eng.? They are known for blowing the head gasket when overheated. Do some checking and testing before you tear it apart.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

well it was just from a few puddles that were left after i leaked antifreeze all over, it has a nova 350 in it. i do have a very bad problem though, i'm over heating and i'm using a 21" long by 19" tall 2 core tru kool radiator, and i've seen temps as high as 240 in it on a cold night. it really heats up quick and i'm useing a 180 digree thermistat, and an 14" electric push fan. are there any other radiators that would do the trick or am i going to have to hack away at more of the truck to get a bigger one??? i really dont like the fact that i have to keep pulling over every once in a little while to let it cool down and not over heat.

I got the same radiator as you and I can sit in traffic on a 70* day and only get to about 200*. Im running a 160 thermostat with a 1/4" hole drilled in it a manual flex fan and a home made shroud. First thing I would do after you get the engine goin again is change out that thermostat to 160.

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1975 V8 Luv
1980 Bagged Luv

well part of the problem might be that i'm running an 2 speed power glide , i just dont understand why i am over heating so much, unfortunately i have no room for a flex fan i only have 1/2 an inch to spare before the engine touches the radiator, i recently just flushed out all the crap out of my radiator so hopefully it should help some. also i'm thinking turbo 400 or 350 transmission might help as well , or possibly making some slits right beside the fire wall that might direct air out of the engine bay, or some crowl induction might help aswell + help with defrosting issues. unfortunately i do not have a cutting tourch so i'll have to figure out how to make the cut with something else.

quick question how long has it been since you messed with cooling system? what i mean is if you just changed thermostat or water pump you may have a big air pocket in there i've had that happen before.

also is your water circulating? could be bad water pump

and thirdly the only other thing i can think of would be a blown head gasket

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zyanug
75 luv stepside... Work in progress
76 fleetside 350hp 1968 327cu
"No replacement for displacement!"
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[_@l__l__@_]***

checked the water and it is circulateing, i recently just used some radiator flush to get all the gunk out, and changed out all my fluids , i'm useing 3 containers of wetter water, mixed with 2 50/50 pred. antifreeze (green) i changed my thermostat the same day , i'm useing an 14" electric fan that is about 800 or so cfm i've made sure to get out all the air by running the engine for about 10 min at idle while in park and adding more fluid. btw has any one added fins or hood scoops or air dams before??

One thing I forgot to mention is you can try trimming down the hood weather strip about 6" on each side to let some heat out. But I wouldn't recommend removing it all together cause then the distributor will have more of a chance of getting wet.

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1975 V8 Luv
1980 Bagged Luv

A powerglide won't make the engine run any hotter. If it heats up quickly just idling, does it cool down any when you start driving, or does it just get hotter. If it overheated before these changes, it could have popped a gasket...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

i really dought it was a gasket i took it in to be tuned up for the altitude change, also i moved it from a dry environment to a more humid envoronment 3 months ago, and it cools down when i'm moving but it still stays dangerously hot all the time where if i'm stopped in traffic i usually shut the motor off

If it is running lean it will run hotter also. Tee altitude tuneup could be a problem. Also the timing can be off and could contribute to the problem. It sounds like you are not getting enough airflow though. Are you sure the fan is blowing through the rad? You may need to go with 2 smaller ones which will increase the airflow across the rad...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

A home radiator flush is cheap but that may be all it is! With a serious investment in the drive train it's well worth taking the radiator into a shop and having it tested.

Just because you can see water circulating or even if a hose stuffed in top of radiator cause water to rush out the bottom doesn't mean a thing. The way the core is designed about 75% can be fully blocked and it will still pass both of those 'tests'.

My radiator passed all tests, new thermostat, new cap, no hoses collapsing but the core was 75% blocked! It did exactly as you're describing. Got it rodded out and no more problems.

One other thing: check that when engine warms up the lower radiator return hose doesn't collapse. Supposed to be a spring in there to hold the shape but they can rust away.

Pressure check the cooling system

check timing

check water pump as i have seen them loose blade inside or slipping inside

I have the same size rad. in my truck and it will start to heat while in sitting in traffic but cools as soon as i start moving and i have a mech. fan but when i first put the Buick in it it was far worse untill i changed the fan pulley so the pump would turn faster and as soon as i bring up the RPM's the engine would cool down.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

the radiator is a tru cool 2 core, its only about 4 years old, i'll have to check the water pump in a day or so, i honestly dont know what to look for in the water pump. also is there any setup that i can use the original wires from the luv alternator the 35amp just isnt keeping up with my new set up, or could any one walk me through a setup and mounting of a new alternator that will work and what to do with all the wires?

The stock chevy water pump is not much of a pump when new as they are more of a paddle wheel setup if you can afford it get a aftermarket alum. pump witch is a true pump(they have a true impeller)These will flow more water and make more pressure in you engine witch eliminates hot spots.

As for you alt. get one for an AC truck (50 amp) and bolt it on.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

ok but what do i do with the stock wires??? and how would i hook them up?? i have no idea what they are or what they do or i'd just use an 75 amp alternator from the parts store.

For the alternator on mine I used a externally regulated alternator from a 69 camaro and used the stock regulator. The wiring is pretty straight forward. I can get pics if you like but just compare the two together the battery wire is a no brainer and just cut the little connector off that plugs into the stock alternator. Put new connectors on the two little wires and plug them into the alt you will have 3 connections to deal with. Ill take a look in the morning on mine and I can tell you better which wire goes where but the alt I got was from autozone its a 60 amp and it was only $35. It keeps up with my high beams at night, performance ignition and a 1000w amp. With this setup you will be able to keep the stock charge light operational.

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1975 V8 Luv
1980 Bagged Luv

do you have a pic or a discription of what to do with the two black wires and the 3 wire connector?

I used a 90 amp alt with a easy hook up to my stock wiring. The large post goes to the Battery/Fuse box heavy gauge wiring. You have 2 smaller wires 1 goes to the "gen" light and the other goes to 12V ignition on power. This way you are using a internal regulater and can get rid of a ton of un needed wires.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

so what do i do with the 3 wire connector do i just leave it un pugged?? and which wire goes to the battery, the black one on the back of the regulator?? and what about the other wire?? i really would like specifics please. also my fuel guage dosent work and the alternator light stays on.