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I had this problem on mine before. I got a different stock carb. on E Bay and the prob. went away.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

I had this happen one time: A bad cut out just off of idle like yours, would happen at random, sometimes fine the next time a hesitation. After messing with the carb forever with no results I found the problem in the distributor. When you open the throttle the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate which causes the small wire inside to flex and it broke inside where it connects to the distributor side terminal. When it flexed just right it would cut out. It's a long shot I know but it happened to me once.

Hello,

I went through the vacuum system and isolated everything. I also re-tried theold dist. rotor, cap, wires, and condenser.

I alsospent a lot of time going through the carburetor and adjusting everything perfectly.. The truck runs a little better (No difference with the old ignition components) however the hesitation is still there.

I took the accelerator pump apart and the plunger was all scratched up, the boot of the pump stem was ruined, even though it was new, as I had just rebuilt it. I am really at a loss, it is the carburetor, and probably the pump. Autozone could not look up the pump because there are at least 100 variables for plunger type, and whatever, various components.

I talked to some people at church and they are looking to see what price they can find for a new carburetor, if maybe they can find one cheap, but that isn't likely.

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/look ... um=ni12020

Here's one for $189, which is better than $240 at autozone. Remanufactured, but I guess that's all there is anyway.

I scrounged a Weber from the wreckers for 20 bucks, modified my stock manifold with hand files and a burr fit in my drill motor, made up a new clamp support for throttle cable. It took some real doing but it worked. Had to change holes in carburetor baseplate with a round file very carefully and then reinforced the web area of carb flange with JB Weld epoxy. Made my own gaskets. There was JUST enough room at stock manifold and in carb base, very close.

Total cost $20 and it works fine. I also rebuilt the Weber and that kit was about $15 or $20 I think.

Several cars have Webers on them just cruise a junkyard. Try to get one that matches your intake manifold holes and throttle cable if you do it.

You can also scribe some rings (3 or 4) around the outside of accelerator pump brass plunger with a sharp pocket knife to raise the metal. This makes it a tighter fit in plunger bore. If it's too tight then just a touch of sanding fixes it up. Because it's pumping liquid fuel and not a gas it doesn't have to be ultra precision.

That's a great idea about the plunger! I thought about o-rings in the little grooves, but that's just a problem waiting to happen.. Thanks for the good advice!