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Do you need to remove the torsion bar crossmember to install the hooker headers. Im getting ready to mock up my engine and trans and the headers look mighty tight in there. If anyone had any pics that would be great. Thanks for the help..

i ran hook header and you dont have to remove the crossmember they fit like a glove

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Im luvin it

Like a glove also.

Craig

Yeah mine fit ok. Hope you get a good set cuz after i installed mine i noticed that the one on the passenger side is crooked and it rattles against my torsion bar. Kinda annoying . Anyone else had that problem.

I think you can adjust that by the height of the transmission. I adjusted mine up to level the motor a little bit, but if you go to far it hits the torsion bar. Yours might need to come down a little bit. Or you just heat and beat the tube a little bit...

My passenger side header contacted the torsion bar at the collector flange too. I ended up slipping a round metal fence post into the header and slowly worked the header away to create about 1/4" of clearance. I had to push it with my foot to get it to move. Take your time with it so you dont split the header with the end of the post.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

What kind of an angle did your engine end up sitting at. Mine is a little bit down in the back. Im going to bring it up some with the tranmission mount but does it need to be dead level front to back?

I used the Hooker motor/trans mount kit to fit the engine. Hooker did their homework and the kits line up the engine to attain the correct engine angle to the pinion angle. So with the engine/trans positioned, the headers are fabricated to fit the truck.
The trans mount bracket is basicly a thicker, longer version of the stock unit. If you modified the stock bracket for the swap, i would assume that adding a 1/8" shim between the bracket and rubber mount would bring the alingment to what Hooker figured out. From that point, you'll need to tweak the header like the rest of us did.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I used the hooker kit as well. The motor just looked a little down in the rear. If it was engineered to be that way then I will leave it alone. The only mod to mine is that I have a 700r4 and a th250 trans mount. I just drilled a hole in the center for it.

Without getting too technical, If the engine/trans angle matches the rear axle pinion angle within 3 degrees + or -, it's within tolerance for correct driveline. If it's not, you'll have vibration and u-joint problems.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

So is the trans mount supposed to sit a little bit lower than the crossmember that the that it connects to. If so i might have to lower it. I made mine from scratch and its basically a longer version of the stock trans mount. I'm also running a saginaw 4-speed if that makes a difference.