LUVTruck.com

Todd,

Your better off with a vacuum secondary (you must have typo'ed it from my craigslist listing "Holley Carberator600 CFM, vacuum secondary, Manual choke. Near new, pulled from a good running 350."). When you get it in and running bring it over and I we can put my WB02 on it and dial it in.

Have fun,
Jeff

for a mild street motor it will be fine.Higher performance goals would dictate a different carb later down the road.Just have fun with your build,learn as you go,don't let the small problems you are bound to run into discourage you with the luv.I guarantee you will have a blast driving the luv with a v-8 in it for the first time!!

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72 luv v-8 owned since 16!
240" rear engine dragster
traded the circle track cars for a blown 496 chevy
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29 dodge 4 dr sedan (project)
84 ranger 2wd "tuff truck" with 350 sbc

After a lot of consideration and trying to figure out how much up & down I'm going to have to do with my engine and trans...I broke down and bought a cherry picker. I got the floor model from the local Schuck's and a $20 discount because of it. I didn't even have to assemble it. My wife and her sister actually picked it up with her Tahoe, and the assistant at Schuck's was a gal too. Is that cool or what? And my wife complains about not getting to go out on 'Ladies' Nights'.... j/k!

Bought a really cheap engine/trans roller cradle too, for whichever piece isn't on the engine stand. I'm out of time tonight and family rules are such that Monday is my only 'truck' day. Tomorrow it's apple tree pruning and post hole digging...

I'm hoping to beg off a couple of hours, I know my wife would LOVE to have the engine/tranny out of the driveway. I'm getting anxious to tear into it.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

cool man I am so stoked about your project too man!!! if you need anything man hit me up if you need to find a certain part even other than luv, or turning wrenches or lifting things. I am searching for a complete donor car with a sbc or sbf with tranny and goodies then get a hold of a 9" or something strong. I have two luv rearends maybe I can put them to the test haha!!!

Talked to a guy today about a pair of 64cc Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. He said $200, but they need rebuilt.

From the checking I've done, I'd need to run dished pistons to keep the CR at 8.6:1. With stock pistons I'd be about 10.3:1 and that's just not practical for a daily driver (is it?). That would mean the extra cost of pressing the pistons on my rods.

Having zero experience with SBC heads, I'm curious what could be SO wrong with these heads that they would be so cheap? What kind of work (worst case) could they need? Haven't seen them yet, and I'm not even sure I'm interested. A $1000 set of aluminum heads for $200 seems WAY too good to be true...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Exactly...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

A buddy of mine just bought a set of edelbrocks in a garage sale for $300 new in the box . I'll bet there was one pissed of husband when he got home and his new heads where gone . I can hear his wife saying " but honey we really made alot on this garage sale " .

With 64 cc and a 4 valve relief flat top you would only be looking at 9.75 to 1 . If your using a stock piston it should have a dish and valve reliefs . They should work , if they are not junk .

What do I need to look for if I go take a look? Unless it's severe, can I tell what sort of shape they are in by a visual check? This guy sounded like he knows what he has. Can the deck warp severely enough to make the head unusable? How would I check something like that without taking them to a machine shop?

I know my 882 cast iron heads are known for cracking the exhaust seat, so I'm already assuming I'll need at least a couple of seats, possibly valves as well. The objective for me is to only spend money at the machine shop that I absolutely have to, but I don't want to skip stuff that I'll regret later. I've got about 1/2 of 'How to rebuild your SMALL-BLOCK CHEVY' by David Vizard memorized, but I still feel like an ignoramus...lol..

Hoping to have the engine on the stand and apart next week, so I'll know better what I'm working with. Past experience on 'a good deal' has often left me investing more in the original purchase than the item was ultimately worth. (See my thread on 'busted straight axle', ack..) I'm leery here, but if I can pick these up and make them work for about the same investment I'd make in my cast iron heads, then I think I should go look at these.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments on this.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

You would do well to take a straight edge with you when you go look at the heads. set it across the head at several points and see if they are flat. One way is to use a feeler gauge under the straight edge. Another method would be to use a flashlight. set it behind the straight edge and turn it on. if it is true (flat) then you should not see any light coming through. Or you could give the guy half and ask him if you can take them to a machine shop to be checked. They shouldnt charge that much to look at them and its a cheap investment in a good set of heads.

do you need a set of heads for the small block todd??? I believe they are the same 882's but maybe not I know the intake valves are the 1.94 off a truck motor I sandblasted them a while ago. I also can give you some hinges I believe they are good bushings from what I remember.
I have some sbc parts just let me know if you need these items

Todd,

Look them over well or better yet have the machine shop look at them. I think I talked to this guy a few weeks back and he said they needed $700 in repairs due to a dropped valve (chamber needs to be welded). You can buy them new for what you would have in them.

Jeff

Also they were the straight plug not angled.

Guess that may not have made much sense. I wanted angled plug heads not straight. I have clearance issuses with my headers.

TPI_Guy, thanks. That sounds like the same guy I talked to. Straight plugs would work I think, in the LUV, but I'm not sure I'm ready to bite off any further upgrades to the engine. For this rebuild, I think I'll have better results if I just stick with mostly stock. I think the cam, intake and carb are going to be the limit of what I can afford to do with this thing. I still have no idea what kind of condition the bores or heads are in, and that can add up $$$ pretty quickly.

Thanks for the note on this, I think I'll pass for now.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Well, Monday is 'truck day' and I actually made some measurable progress today. Nothing amazing, but I'm happy to get this moving forward.

Got the engine and trans up and decided that for giggles, I should probably check for fluids. Engine still had about 1/2 gallon of oil in it. Well, mostly oil. It's been sitting out so there was quite a bit of water in it, but it actually looked OK, no metal chunks falling out, or shiny bearing like substances that I could see.



Pulled all the plugs, and sort of freaked out, there was no ELECTRODE! Wot the..! Oh, duh. Every plug had an anti-fouler on it. Pulled one off and the plug actually looked OK. Got a feeling this was an oil burner tho'.



Cracked the tranny on the trailer and happily discovered the torque converter only had two bolts in it. The trans had fluid in it too. Looked sort of like root beer, but at least it wasn't jell-o.



Got the engine on the stand, and the trans on the cart and rolled the truck back in the garage after taking back the borrowed trailer.





Now the fun begins....
My wife came out and said, 'What the heck is THAT?', as she pointed to my pushrod rack. I'm like, huh? She said, 'Why did you write SIN SEX on that board?'....
Puahahahaha!!! 5 IN 5 EX, as in #five intake, #5 exhaust...I about died laughing...



Passenger side looked about like I expected.




Driver side was a little worse in the bores, but the head was the big surprise. I pulled it and went to set it down and discovered a new meaning for 'mouse motor'. A bunch of seeds fell out of the exhaust ports...LOL..







I don't have a balancer puller, so that's where I stopped for today. I know this is ho-hum for some of you guys. I thought you all might be interested in what a free 010 engine looks like when it comes apart.

Broke three cheap 3/8 ratchets trying to get the heads off, and remembered I have a 3/8 80# torque wrench. Duh. Came off easy enough with the right tools...

More to come, thanks for tuning in.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

oh yeah my heads look a lot cleaner than those it wasnt rusty valves I media blasted my heads a little... yeah so if you want them might have them cleaned at a machine shop to make sure all the grit is out I'll get some pics soon of the heads for you todd they came off the same 010 engine too.

Well, it looks like I forgot to check a minor item yesterday...

This engine is siezed.

I realized I hadn't tried to turn it, so I went out this morning and no way was I going to get it to move. Filled each of the bores with about an inch of PB Blaster, and I'll add some Marvel Mystery Oil when I get a minute.

The bores actually look really good, it had the etched type metal headgaskets in it and no noticeable ridge on the bores. I'm not sure if it's been built before, but I'm guessing I'll see some rod/main stamps when I flip it over. I might just have a very nice virgin, seasoned block here. Then again I might have a .060 over, end of the road, piece of scrap...

Isn't this exciting?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

A man after my own heart. PBB and MMO.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

I'll probably drop a bit of kerosene and some ATF in there too, when I think of it. It's only soaking the bottom half of the pistons right now. I filled both sides with about an inch of PBB and MMO, and figure I'll wait till one side seeps through before I try to turn one bank upright.

It might take awhile, but this has worked for me before...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Passenger side has seeped through, at least on the bottom. I've got the driver side tipped up now and I'm soaking the top half of those pistons.

Any tips for the two pistons that are at deck level? I can't really get much liquid in there...

Also, I pulled the flywheel. So now, I'm wondering if I should set the engine back down on my dead tire, reinstall the flywheel, slap the starter in it and hook up a battery to a remote starter switch. I'd leave it supported with the engine hoist. And then click, click...

I'm considering building a temporary 2x6 cradle so I don't wreck the flywheel on the garage floor, just in case.

I'll let the whole assembly soak at least another week before I try it, what do you guys think? Is there an easier/safer way? Last one of these I did was still in a car, two weeks of soaking, got it rolling and I popped the clutch and ... ta-da, started! ... this one is a bit trickier.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison