LUVTruck.com

Hey guys I've seen a few luv trucks out there with a Intake Manifold that has two Weber Carbs on it.

Why would I want that set up as opposed to the single weber carb set up? What is the difference..pro's and con's??

It'd definately need to be on something v-8 or larger...


Two carbs = more fuel in the engine = faster yet terrible mpg.

Yea, I've seen this on the stock 1.8 like what I have. I like the idea of as much horsepower as I can get but without sacraficing anymore MPG than I have to. I've had the engine rebuilt although I need to check and see what size pistons they put in it.??

I think ?? The way to go is get the largest size piston the 1.8's can take whatever that spec is I don't know yet; and have the head shaved (another spec I need to know) to it lowest point without the valves hitting.

That with the weber and Offy Manifold I got from Mokadeth and a Mallory distributor and my new Pacer Header might be just about all i can do with this particular motor...??

??? Any other ideas???


I just want to do all that can done with the 1.8 I have while I have it out of the truck. I would just like it to be done right the first time and not have to go back and do any of it over again. Anyway thanks for any info you guys might wanna add.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember .40-.60 is the largest you can go on pistons and .020 is the max you can shave off on the stock 1.8

And, I'm sure you meant you got a Pacesetter header and not a "Pacer" , that would be going way backward.

Also, don't forget about the cam, Delta will regrind one for your specs.

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FIAA: Color Guard

with all the money and time youd spend on making the g180 have more power, you could go with a smallblock or chevy v6 for the same money and have more power.

right now, ive got an impulse bottom end, with a g180 head. so im runnin 10.5:1 compession. i also have one weber, which by the way is too much carb for this engine, and a pacesetter header.

i get barely 15mpg.

leave it as stock as you can if you want mileage.

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

I agree joe, would like my stocker to last forever, but when the day comes that it does fail, I intend to do a complete front end swap to retain the 4WD. Either a Toyo or CJ5 front with comparable engine.

Hopefully by then, I can pick up something else to drive while I have this one down.

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FIAA: Color Guard

Yea I meant pacesetter...lol Well I have a 79 luv 4x4 and that is the one I plan to put a bigger motor in. Just haven't decided how crazy I would wanna get with it.

Some sort V-8 (Wish I could get a Hemi under the hood) lol

I read in the owners manual for the 1.8 that these things were supposed to get about 23 mpg in town and around 30 on the highway when it was new. So I figured with a few mods I should've been able to get at least that....guess not Once again Thanks guys !!!!!

Hey 79-luvr I thought the last time we talked you said you were looking for another stock 1.8 to rebuild. Change your mind???

Yeah, I think I'm just going to enjoy mine as it is for a while, engine wise. Still want to add some buckets, console, rollbar, bigger wheels and tires. But eventualy, will be doing a complete swap over in the engine/tranny dept. $$ has become a big short term Luv goal motivator

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FIAA: Color Guard

To know more about the twin carbs you can go here, they will have about all the info you need... http://www.ozgemini.com/
i had twins on mine but it got to cold here to get them dialed in... they work best in warmer climates like where you are or say Florida So. Cal.

here are mine and a nice looking set

and here was me trying to tune by way of video and a friend in italy that i got the carbs from (didnt have my book yet) so i needed his help... The weird noise at the end of the video is my 2 year old banging on the hood

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My old but now gone Luv...

Farmer...Have you downloaded the file here on webers (http://www.luvtruck.com/pdf/Weber_files.zip) and tried to rebuild and re-adjust that carb? My 32/36 ran like crap when I first got it untill I rebuilt it. The complete rebuild kit, including the power diaphram, is real cheap on ebay - around $20.00-$30.00. The item #is 260199128305 and there are other kits that are a bit cheaper - but you really want the complete kit with the power diaphram - trust me.

I've got the same engine setup as you Farmer - plus I'm running a 38/38 instead of a 32/36 on mine and it's not over-carbed. I'm using a 50 amp alternator, an accel high-output coil, and I've swapped out the points distributor for the electronic distributor/ignition module combo too - so that might make a difference if you haven't done that conversion yet.

(But I do need to run on Supreme or it pings like hell under a load...lol)

BTW...Farmer what type of cam are you running and how have you set your timing? I had to tinker a bit with mine after the guys at Delta reground mine and didn't add too much to it because of the valve-to-piston clearance.

Too bad you aren't closer to me - because I've got a few old webers for parts, a bunch of spare jets, and 2 or 3 rebuild kits laying around. I'd try my hardest to help you get that damn carb and your engine purring like a kitten or die tryin'.







And you guys that want a bit more muscle in your 2WD's and your 4X4's should maybe explore the possibility of swapping in an Isuzu 2.6 with a 2.3 carb intake and a 2.3 distributor/ignition module. The ignition is an easy 2 wire conversion, and completely stock with the factory A/C and smog stuff on them - they produce 125 hp, and they will bolt right up to your existing transmission/transfer case.

With a 2.6/2.3 combo engine that has no A/C, no smog, a decent reground cam, a milled head, a header, an improved intake, and a weber 32/36 or 38/38 - there's no telling what they'll produce. But whatever they do produce - it would definitely run circles around any G series engine put together the same way - without adding the unnecessary bunch of extra weight and the complete hassle of trying to drop in anything else.

I'm in the process of buying another '78 2wd automatic shortbed with low miles and a blown engine. Once I get it, I'm going to start building up a 2.6/2.3 hybrid myself for my "78 shortbed stepside and then put my built G series Impulse 1.9 I'm currently using in my stepside in it.

Then it'll get the full Taz treatment...which is one truck my other half won't be groanin' about me spending any money on - since it's for her...lol

You happen to have a list of the models that had that engine? I'm guessing Trooper or Impulse. Years? My issue with going that route is, they aren't easy to find around here.

But yeah, I would love to be able to retain as much stock drivetrain as possible. If do-able.

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FIAA: Color Guard

Holy snot... you guys took off and ran with this one, lol I've fallen behind cause I'm at work and things picked up so haven't been able to get back on. Been in the water all day errr Oh well it pays the bills.

However, I have a new weber and so far it's worked great. I just adjusted it myself by feel. I did'nt try to spec it out...maybe I should though.

Thanks for all the input when I slow down to a blur I'll get back on and read everything and catch up, but heck ya'll are doing fine without me lol

I bet ya five bucks somebody quotes the "ya'll are doing fine without me part" lol or not, which means I'll owe everybody on here five bucks duuhop!!

No 79-LUV'r - but I'll bet 800xl does. Plus, a quick call or visit to the nearest junkyard should hopefully get that info for you.

You could also run the 2.6 engine and the 2.3 parts you will need through the search at http://car-part.com and it will give you an idea of what they all came in, how much they should cost, and if there are any decent engines/parts available in your area.

I just did a complete USA search and according to them the 2.6 came in the 88-91 Pup, Trooper, and Amigo .... and the 2.3 came in the 86-92 Pup, Trooper, and Amigo, plus the 88-89 Impulse. The 2.3 carb intake and distributor/ignition module needed to put the whole thing together looks like it came in the 86-87 Pup and Trooper.

Getting everything you will need may be difficult to find yes - but hopefully not impossible. But once you have everything you need..IMHO it would seem to be a pretty simple way to get a lot more muscle with very little hassle. There is one guy here that is doing this conversion already - damned if I can remember who though...lol

I've driven a Trooper with a stock 2.6 before and it definitely had some "get up and go" for a 4-banger - even though the Trooper is a lot heavier than a Luv is. I just figure that starting out with an engine that produces 125 hp stock compared to one that only produces 75 hp stock, and doesn't weigh enough more to even mention, is definitely a step in the right direction. Due to the Luv being so small and light, I bet it would still get pretty decent gas mileage - even if you tinkered with it a bit to get even more hp/torque out of it.

And just think how much damn fun it would be to drive a Luv with a nearly 200 hp built 4-banger in it...lol

If you were a little more adventurous you could use a 2.6L bottom end and put the 2.3L head on it with the carb etc.

Buy a complete 2.3L motor. Thats my advice. You need all the stuff off it, mounts etc. Especially if your luv is cable clutch you need the bracket that ties the block to the box as its got the cable holder in it.

If the 2.3L is out of a 2.3L thats a bonus too as its got a steel sump. Not the alloy offset sump that doesnt leave you as much room to get the exhaust out of the engine bay.

2.6L motors are hydraulic clutch.

Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

huh?

So I guess what you are saying is you will need the 2.3's cable clutch bracket/setup, it's motor mounts, and maybe the 2.3's oil pan to make it all work?

If that's what you meant then it's real good info to know - thanks Bob! Because there's always some darn little thing you need to have to make everything work right that you always forget to grab while you're still at the darn junkyard.

BTW Bob...does the 2.6 head have bigger intake/exhaust valves than the 2.3 does? If so - then wouldn't using the 2.6 head result in more hp/torque - but use more fuel? And wouldn't using the 2.3 head result in lower hp/torque - but use less fuel?

And any idea how much difference between the 2.3 and the 2.6's design would effect the compression when you are using them on a 2.6 block?

For example - correct if I'm wrong, but I believe a 1.8 head on a 1.9 block increases the 1.9's compression and lowers it's fuel consumption - and a 1.9 head on a 1.8 block lowers it's compression and increases it's fuel consumption - due to the differences in the design of the two heads and the differences in the size of their intake/exhaust valves. (The 1.9 with a 1.8 head is a potent combination - while the 1.8 with a 1.9 head is really gutless.)

I was just wondering how much the 2.3 and the 2.6 heads are different and which one would be the best to use to get more hp/torque and compression. If they are designed very similar with the size of the intake/exhaust valves being the only difference - then I'll probably just use the 2.6 one with the bigger valves.

@#%&in' repost....lol

Oh yeah,

Just remembered my other reason for wanting to do a complete 4x drivetrain swapout... the dreaded 4 speed tranny.


But, heck yeah Taz even 150hp would be an awesome 4x4 Luv. Now that hunting season is over, I may have some time and resoources to start looking for stuff, but I do remeber last year after I blew the chance to tow home an 84 Trooper(for free)....long sad story, I did call a few places close to me and none of em had what I was lookin for. Our local yard has gotten to where they crush anything and everything older than 90 model.

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FIAA: Color Guard

Changing a 4x4 to a 5 speed is a whole different world of drama.


The 4x4 4speed is the same length as a 2x4 box. The 5 speed 4x4 box is heaps longer. Different crossmember, different jack shaft, different tailshaft. Its a different chassis.



tumwatertaz, There is a bit of difference in port sizes between the 2.3L and the 2.6L. If your using the 2.3L inlet i dont see how its going to hurt your flow. You might have slightly better ports on the 2.6L but the manifold will pull it up. If the head is the same as the manifold its pretty much the same thing and the 2.3L head will lower the compression some what.


Appart from being taller the only other difference between the 2.6L motor and the other ones in its family is the camshaft timing pulley, the 2.6L used a different pitch belt.
Oh yeah and the 2.6L uses its own waterpump and they wont interchange.
Pretty much everything else interchanges.


You dont need the oil pan. The 2.6L and 4x4 2.3L motors have an alloy sump that has a small tin pan on the bottom. This bit on the bottom is offset to the drivers side to allow for the jack shaft to the front diff.

The steel pan would be neater is all. You could use the steel pan off an impulse too.


If you get a power steering box get the 2.3L/2.6L motor with its power steering pump still attached.


Bob.

Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Thanks for the info Bob!