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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:46 am 
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I thought I would start a Subject Specific Thread on this. So search attempts will be more effective.

I am hoping to compile pictures and a description of all the different ways that people have plugged the smog pump holes in their heads.

Here is what I have found out

threads are 14mmx1.25 same as a spark plug. I have searched High an low and never found a off the shelf plug yet.

Here is my latest attempt
Tapered seat spark plug 5/8" Hex with .406"reach Champion Part# RV8C
I can't wait to tell the tell someone how 8 spark plugs give me more HP

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:54 am 
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That's awesome. Luvvin it.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 2:07 pm 
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A simple and very effective way is to take the original nozzle fittings that went in them off of the air injection rail by cutting the tubes that go into them.

Then get out your trusty tap & die set and thread their centers so you can plug them with some black grade 8 allen bolts and small thin brass or copper washers. Once you tighten them all back down into the head, it actually looks decent and kinda like they belong there.

Some people have welded the nozzle fittings shut, drilled out the centers of old spark plugs and welded them shut, or cut off the tubes and crimped the ends, or welded shut the big fitting on the end of the air injector rail that leads to the pump - none of which IMHO is as easy or as professional looking as just threading the nozzle fitting centers and screwing in allen bolts with a soft small washer to seal them.

You can easily pick up everything you'll need at the nearest hardware store pretty darn cheap and have it done in no time.


Last edited by tumwatertaz on Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 2:39 pm 
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i like the plug idea good for a few :lol: but this is what i use


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i think i got them at the local hardware store, they are made of brass, and im pretty sure they are cheaper than spark plugs

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:21 pm 
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the holes are and off size, proprietary to Isuzu... they are if I remember right 12.5 mm or something like that ... other things will fit but can come loose or strip the threads unless you take the head off and retap the holes... I did like taz said used the existing pipe fittings, taped the center with a 3/8 pipe thread and insert either allen bolt or pipe plugs they look the best and like he said almost like they belong there

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Hi Catman,

14mmx1.25 it is nothing proprietary to isuzu. just standard metric spark plug thread. Although they chose to use it for the EGR tubes. probably to make it harder to remove smog equipment.

Canti,
your plug is a std thread. that is an option also to retap the holes to a standard size and use a common size plug. that should work also.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:46 pm 
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i searched all over town for 2 days and non of the bolt shops had any that fit they told me it was a 1/2 size ... he said he measured it with a micromerter or something like that but he may not of been knowing what he was doing, he was the one that told me to tap and insert a plug... but its good to know the size now thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 9:34 pm 
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Hey Cat, can you please post a close-up pic or 2 of the allen screw plug-job for everyone?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:35 pm 
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mine have the pipe plugs but ill get a pic tomorrow

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 9:44 am 
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Its into the alloy part of the head.
A metal or brass tapered plug would tighten up well enough. You wouldnt want to do it this way if you ever have to refit the smog gear later into the threaded holes.

To retap the holes to a plug size you wouldnt need to take the head off. Its the out side of the exhaust so what did fall through would get blown out.



tumwatertaz wrote:
drilled out the centers of old spark plugs



Not big of a fan of drill bits then??? Ceramic is crap stuff.

Break the top off. Clamp the nut part in the vice with it upside down. Cut the earthing electrode off. Punch the centre electrode down and out. Then with a tapered punch you dont care about, tap it down into the ceramic. Invert it and tap the punch in the other way. Then tip it up again and do it some more. Its not that hard to do, usually get most of it before you have to tip it upside down. I highly suggest you wear saftey glasses.

I wanted to make up a leak down tester fitting. I did 4 spark plugs, i was in a destructive mood. The centre punch i used is now covered in deep gouges. That ceramic is tough, sharp, hard stuff.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:59 pm 
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Yeah...after he broke off the tops and hacksawed off the electrodes, the guy went through a bunch of masonary bits and almost burnt up the motor in his cheap little drill press cleaning out the centers. Then he wore out a few cheap taps threading their centers. According to him, it was an all day project.

At the time it seemed like a helluva lot of work and time to go through, when he could have just tapped and plugged the injector nozzles in about a half hour instead.

When I asked him why he did it his way instead, he said the nozzles were too old and rusty-looking, and the brand new spark plugs he used were all bright and shiny-looking.

(Apparently the spark plugs he used were the only thing that was bright in his garage that day. :lol: )


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:00 pm 
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here you go
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Perfect topic just in time I was about to do this myself thanks for starting it and to all the guys throwing out all the info. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:55 pm 
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You're welcome.

Your truck is beautiful. That thing look like it just came out of the showroom.

One other way is just leave the injector rail intact. The big round thing where the hose attaches is a one way valve. It lets air in but it won't let it out. If you don't believe me try to suck some air back through it. Your mouth will taste like dirt for a while but at least you will know. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:10 am 
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Quote:
suck some air back through it. Your mouth will taste like dirt for a while


You know Dan....it is possible to love a truck just a little bit too much. :lol:

But seriously, that air injection rail just looks ugly and it really gets in the way. Once it's off, the engine looks a lot nicer, and a de-smogged engine with all of that stuff gone sure is a heck of a lot easier to keep clean and to work on. Plus the small horsepower/torque and better gas mileage you gain in the process doesn't hurt either. :wink:

I sure am glad I don't have to worry about smog testing here - and next year I get to put on collector's plates and I won't have to buy tabs each year any more either. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:15 pm 
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Thank you :) Not sure if you noticed but in my sub folders through the photobucket link are pics of a daily driver I have it looks like you have it's twin lol and when I get home on Wed of this week I will be ordering a new weber carb. and either pulling the 1.8 and replacing it with another I've almost finished rebuilding.

It might be easier for me to put the new one in without all the smog stuff than converting what's under the hood. Maybe. We'll see........


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:40 pm 
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wheres the option for cutting the tubes and band and smash them flat a few times with a BFH and a peice of railroad track? :lol:

i beleive that what i did to mine :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:42 pm 
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LOL @ Larp...


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:24 pm 
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larphead wrote:
wheres the option for cutting the tubes and band and smash them flat a few times with a BFH and a peice of railroad track? :lol:

i beleive that what i did to mine :lol:



Post the picture. Sounds like it would work for the "Rat Rod Luv"

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Did a v8 conversion in 1981 on my '76 luv
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#1 1980 Black 2wd, #2 1980 Blue 2wd, #3 1980 Black 4x4 #4 1980 black 2wd Long bed #5 1979 black 4x4 #6 1977 red 2WD
pics
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:26 pm 
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Cut Flatten and weld the tube is another redneck way :lol: but at lest cut the tube off that goes into the exhaust flow.

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