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 Post subject: Dizzy cap
PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Question: what does electric arcing and scoring inside the distributor cap indicate? Finding marks hitting just to the left of each electrode.

Have run into this a few time so far, usualy about the time the engine starts to miss at low rpms, up to now I've replaced the cap then everything is great for a few weeks.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 12:45 pm 
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This quote is off another site. I was gonna suggest that your Pertronix set up wasn't quite in phase with the rotor beforew I saw this. It was in reference to a timing retard/hard start issue, but the principal is the same.

When you retard the timing 20 to 25 degrees the rotor is nowhere near the post on the distributor cap. That spark can end up in any number of other places, it will take the path of least resistance.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:10 pm 
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Hmm... something like that might apply, I have always thought my timing was advanced a bit if anything. Don't have hard start issue, cranks first hit everytime.

I was also doing some reading on the subject, and it could be I have the wrong type plug wires, solid core... not sure if this is the case on mine, haven't looked yet. But somewhere on Pertronix site, I read something about using 'spiral' or carbon core wires. Been looking for some online.

Also wouldn't hurt for me to actualy time the sucker with a light... soon as I get one of those too :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:32 pm 
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Yeah, if you've got solid core, that won't help. Had to ditch those on the one I had. If that doesn't help, you may be able to loosen the screws on the Pertronix and rotate it slightly to get in closer to phasing with the rotor. I'd do the wires first though.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:15 pm 
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mytmouz wrote:
Yeah, if you've got solid core, that won't help. Had to ditch those on the one I had. If that doesn't help, you may be able to loosen the screws on the Pertronix and rotate it slightly to get in closer to phasing with the rotor. I'd do the wires first though.


Good call T, seems I was a tiny bit outta phase... took a little time, trial, error and a few test drives but got it smoothed out, timed alot smoother.

Put in a new, little better quality distributer cap, drove it for a couple days, just checked and no signs of arcing marks on the inside. Now if I can just find a tach filter for the MSD.

Thanks for the heads up

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 6:57 pm 
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8)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:51 pm 
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Hey T

I have a few days off and I'm wanting to get my vac advance going again. I am still using the Pertronix module in place of the old points. Thing is, the module sits on the distributor plate at about 6:00, the points that were in before sat at about 12:00. When I originaly installed the P-module, I could never get it to start/run with in in the same general location as the points were, eventualy I 'lucked out' and moved it to where it is now.

The reason I need to move it is the post the vac advance connects to is about 8:00 on the plate normaly...which puts it in the way of mounting the Pertronix module.

I have been reading about changing the rotor phasing so I can get the module back up top and out of the way. Can you shed any light on this process? Or should I just see about sticking with what I have and maybe trying different mechanical advance springs? And can you recommend any that would work in a 79 dizzy?

Sorry for the 20 questions scenario :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:24 pm 
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The only thing I know about Isuzu dizzy's is that they had one. The Pertronix I did was a few years back on one of the OHC Pontiac Sprint 6 motors. I didn't have to lose the vacuum advance on that unit. Without looking at what you have I can honestly say I haven't got a clue. :(

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:35 pm 
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Think I got it, had to reposistion the module to about the 2:00 posistion on the plate, vac advanced hooked up again. Timed well. Tuning carb now. All is right with the world :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:29 pm 
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That's good to hear. 8)

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