LUVTruck.com

i am in the process of removing the rust and paint off of the inside bed and tailgate. I am using a grinder with a wire bruch head..it is working good and i will post pics when i get the bed done.


but i would like to learn a lil bit more of the process of proper paint removal, for when i do the outside body. I would like it to be smooth and nice.

if anyone could give me a lil info on the steps and or options i have when it comes to doing this..



thanks anthony




p.s i am looking just to get the paint and whatnot off and then primer it..and it will stay that way until i am done completing that engine swap.

Anthony:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secrets ... light=rust

Hi Hotrodders,

I see several posts regarding surface rust and what to do about it. In this post, I will reveal how I go about removing surface rust from automotive body panels. It's a bit time consuming, but not too terribly bad. I prefer to have Redi-Strip do it for me, but there are times when I have to resort to doing it the old way. This is a very inexpensive process that provides excellent results.

Let's start with a materials list. You will need a DA sander (any type will actually work, or you can sand by hand if you wish)
80-180 grit sandpaper, steel wool (any grade will work), Naval Jelly, a squirt bottle w/warm soapy water and a roll of paper towels.

The first step is to sand the entire surface rusted area with a DA sander fitted with 80-180 grit paper. We're not trying to sand off the rust entirely, just get the majority of the heavy rust and make the panel somewhat smooth.

Working in an area about 12"-16" square, apply a fair amount of naval jelly and start scrubbing with the steel wool. It's wise to wear rubber gloves, as the phosphoric acid in the naval jelly may affect your skin!!
It is important to keep the area wet at all times. Do not allow the naval jelly to dry. A few shots of water from the squirt bottle will help to activate the acid and may aid in quicker results. Depending on the severity of the rust, you should start seeing shiny metal within a few minutes. You may have to rinse the area and re-apply the naval jelly several times to get it all, but it WILL remove the rust eventually. When you're finished working an area or you need a break, wipe off the excess naval jelly with a paper towel, squirt a health dose of the warm soapy water on the work area and immediately dry it thoroughly. This will neutralize the acid and leave a bluish colored film on the metal.

I did this 16"x16" area in about 15 minutes. More extreme rust would have taken longer, but the end result would have been the same.



Repeating this process over and over in workable size areas will yield a rust free panel that is ready for a good coat of epoxy primer that will last years, with just a few hours of good old hard work!!!

This '40 Willys roof panel has more than 90% of the rust removed. One more application will get it. I have a little under three hours in it to this point.



The last picture was taken just after wiping the panel with a wax and grease remover. I did this to clean it up and also to help highlight the dents. If you look closely, you will notice several half moon shaped creases in the roof. This all gets repaired in the next step. I will submit a tutorial on that tomorrow night.

Randy Ferguson
Ferguson Coachbuilding
(618) 544-2972
http://www.metalmeet.com


The naval jelly will etch the surface, but I've found I get better results by sanding the metal with 80-180 grit prior to applying the epoxy. If you use a high quality epoxy primer, such as this one from Southern Polyurethanes, Inc. you shouldn't need to apply a metal conditioner.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.co...poxy_gallon.JPG


I've found their products to be second to none!!

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

Sites that can help you out. I know some stuff, but you can go to these and read, and read, and read.. Tons of info.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/
Tons of information, knowlage and helpfull folks.

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/
Milo is the man. Very helpfull

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
Good site too.

HTH
Richard

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

E-Duck:

Sandblasting can work too, see my PM to you.

90% of a good paint job is in the prep work. No real shortcuts on this. Do it right the first, and never have to do it again. Work slow and carefully. Pick a panel and work on it, you dont need to finish it all at one time

Expoy prime then do any bondo work. Why, bondo has a lot of taulk(sp?) you know.... Baby powder stuff. What does that do? Absorbes water. Water and the bear metal on your truck = BAD.

See the links above for more info on all of this.

Richard

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

thanks a lot man...i am reading over the sites tonight and i will continue working slow and i will take pics of my progress.....

I always love to look at someones build books on their cars.

Richard

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

here is the tail gate...i used a wire brush head cause the rust was prety bad...as it is in the rest of the bed.





it is really actually smooth

alright i am at a point where i just had to leave to damn shop before i lost it


i have been trying to figure this shit out...i know what i need to do....and it isn't a bad thing but i have had multiple people helping me out (which i thank everyone of you, you know who you are).........but i am like overwhelmed...i went to lowes to get grinder pads so i could get started on removal..i find 80 grit and 120...that is as high as they had so i though i would try it...so i buy them and bring them all the way home. And i get home and the special wrench thingy that you need to get the flat bolt of of the grinder, well i couldn't find the damn thing... so i start by hand and i soon got pissed and threw it

i just need one thing..one way to do this, and then just do it....i am gettin all this stuff mixed up i have bought sand, but then foud out tat it wasn't going to work well, so i took that back. and my air compressor broke so blasting os outta the question for the time being



I recieved so much help from so many different people that i couldnt get it all at once and it is backfiring, i am totally not happy and having so uch other shit to do with school and sports just fuels the fire




i will stop bitching

_________________
!!!FINALLY!!!
-1977 Luv mikado

Paint and rust removal.. Have fun with that. I hate doing that kinda stuff.

_________________

thanks...

i f*ckin hate it too....not really my cup of 'tea'


it is slow going

_________________
!!!FINALLY!!!
-1977 Luv mikado

thanks...

i f*ckin hate it too....not really my cup of 'tea'


it is slow going

_________________
!!!FINALLY!!!
-1977 Luv mikado