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Is there a way to run the fan off the battery so it runs even when the motor is off? The reason is so that on a hot day I can just reach in and turn on the fan and blow out the hot air, thus it being cooler inside the cab. I tried running a switch to the fan in parrallel with the normal wiring, the switch i wired in would work, but when the truck was on and i used the normal switch it blew the fuse, so how was that happenin'?

And BTW it's a diesel 82 W/O AC

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-Old ride-82 Luv diesel 5spd with some upgrades
-Past rides-82 Sierra, 78 Coupe De'Ville, 91 2dr Blazer, 86 RX7, 86 Porsche 944T (rear-ended and totaled)
-Curr. rides- 1970 Ford LTD 4dr, 390 4Bbl, 2nd owner! With a few Extras 00' Civic beater...

something along these lines, i just read about a guy in texas that bought a little solar powered fan... he cracks his window, sets the solar panel in the sun and lets it run all day. he says it keeps his interior fairly cool.. might be an easier idea than hotwiring the fan????

Ok this post has been up for a while... So....Here's my solution....

First Go out and get a Single Pole Double Throw (spdt) switch,some crimp connectors or those little blue inline splicers (the ones you place the wires inside of and squeeze the metal piece through the two wires), two inline fuse holders and fuses that correspond with current heater fan amperage, and a testlight(if you dont already have one.. they are REALLY cheap and a great thing to have.)

It also would be a good idea to run wires through the firewall by means of grommets...

Next disconnect the heater fan fuse in the fusebox.

Get a good ground on your testlight and check it by touching the positive on the battery and see if it lights...

Turn the key on, and probe the two fuse connections of the heater fuse. The one that lights is your accessory lead. the one that doesnt light we'll call the load lead.

Turn off the key.

In the picture below I have included a wiring diagram to supplement the instructions... refer to it if necessary...

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent any shorts...

Run the wire from the inline fuse holder (or to it if the fuseholder has no wires) so that the fuse is very close the the wire you will be splicing into.

Splice into the corresponding wire that matches the accessory lead on the fusebox.

After the inline fuse, run a wire to the spdt switch *mounted in the location of your choice* to either pole 1 or 3 *doesnt really matter*

Next run a wire from pole 2 on the switch to the wire that corresponds with the load lead.

Next run run another inline fuse to a constant 12v + line... *either the battery itself, on the back of the ignition switch, or at a number of other places* Just be sure to mount the fuse as close to the source as possible.

Run the wire out of the 12v constant inline fuse to the last connection on your switch...

Be sure to insulate all connections with heat shrink, electrical tape, or liquid electrical tape....

Connect the battery terminal back and... Viola... Flip in one direction, fan comes on whenever you want, flip it the other way... Fan operates as normal....


Please note that the wiring diagram below is just a visual representation.... The heater fuse location on the fusebox will not be correct... Also "in" would mean accessory and "out" would mean load.




Hope it helps....
~Aaron