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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2002 12:01 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:47 pm
Posts: 3444
Location: Sand Bernardino, CA
RATNLUV send me this picture of a MustangII front end on a LUV.

Click on the picture for a full size version:
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2002 5:00 am 
more pics here
http://www.angelfire.com/tn2/xr50freekz/ratnluv.htm


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 Post subject: Mustang ll Front end
PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2002 5:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 8:38 pm
Posts: 320
Location: Georgetown TN
Above is a picture of the bare crossmember after it had been welded in.I am on a tight budget and was lucky to find a factory front end still in the car.They are a real pain to cut out and trim up, but are a nice little unit. First and most important mark the centerline of the front wheels.I did this on the inner frame rail because it will stay after you are done.After removing everything that would unbolt I cut the rest of the brackets, shock towers ect. untill there was just the frame rails.
Locate the centerlin on the Mustang frt.end and start notching the frame untill it will slide in.The hole will be bigger than you need because of the shape of the crossmember.Use caution and good judgement here you don't want the hole real big but big enough so you can get the new crossmember positioned correctly.You will have to make some small plates to cover the holes.
Ride height can be altered here if so desired.I blocked the truck up at desired ride height and positioned the new frt.end accordingly.The correct way is the bottom of the control arms level with the crossmember at ride height.This is according to most of the manufacturers.To do this simply remove the coil sprngs.
After getting everything positioned Tack weld it in several places.Most important step CHECK wheelbase and side to side centering.Check it again and after you are sure it is positioned correctly start welding it in.Some of the gaps gan be filled with 3/4 angle iron helping to box it all back in.I am not a welder,but can weld enough to tack it in and get it ready for a friend who welds for a living to do the final welding.
I made the strut rods from a combination of 2 sets from a Luv and the mustang, these I ran to the front and hooked them up to the factory Luv location. The Mustang ran to the back.
After getting it in I had to replace the springs with pinto WITHOUT air conditioning springs.This was due to the engine being moved so far back.I have had the front aligned at the alignment shop and it drives great.
Several places make crossmembers and parts for the mustang ll frt.end.
I purchased caliper brackets so I could use 11" Camaro rotors and calipers.This eliminated the 6 bolt wheels and upgraded the brakes and is a bolt in upgrade. Ther is also no need to buy special rotors you can buy Camaro rotors but you will need to buy Mustang ll bearings and change the races in the rotor.It took some searching to figure out what they where doing here but one race is the same just the bearing is different.The other one the race and bearing are different But the outside diameter is the same so you can just change the race and the rotors are on.
Springs can be bought at various rates.With the big block and the weakest factory springs my truck still sits a little higher than I had wanted but I am hopeing it will settle a bit.
If any body has any questions let me Know and I will try and answer them.I sold the first Luv because I was trying to put coil overs on the front and just wasn't happy with the way it was working out (big block also),but this solved so many of the problems.
If you look close you can see I used factory Chevy mounts as well as block huggers on the big block.

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 Post subject: susupension
PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 10:29 pm 
thats the same idea i have been pondering for about two years now tinkering with coil overs and ride hight and bigger torsion bars every thing is crappy i like the mustang 2 stuff its really clean plus u can still get dropped spindles for that set up nice job i like it oh one more question what did u use for a rack
?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2002 6:00 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 8:38 pm
Posts: 320
Location: Georgetown TN
I used pinto non power and it works great.If you take time and measure allowing for the final ride height you can eliminate the need for drop spindles.
I just removed the coil springs so you can work with it.Level and block vehicle to desired ride height.Then install front end crossmember accordingly,the amount of drop can be change easily by location of crossmember.
Crossmember and lower control arms are straight across at ride height.This gives you plenty of supension travel.

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