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 Post subject: core support top rail
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2002 6:45 am 
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Addicted to LUV

Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 6:37 am
Posts: 1411
Location: Soddy Daisy
I am bound and determined to keep the top rail of the core support intact.
do any of you who have V8's see this happening?
I have talked to DJewett some about what radiator to use and I will go to that if I find out I have to cut the top rail out.
it looks like if I can tilt the radiator like the camaros that it might work.
I will set the engine in and see how much clearance I have.

all of this after I finish the wiring of course. (totally in the middle of the wiring phase of project)
I am drawing a wiring diagram if any of you are interested to see I can scan it in.
thanks.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2002 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:47 pm
Posts: 3467
Location: Sand Bernardino, CA
The only problem I see with leaving in the core support is that it will be very difficult to install/remove the engine/trans. The problem is that the crossmember for the torsion bars isn't removable either, so it's practically impossible to install the motor/trans combo and get the trans on top of the cross member while the core support is in the way.

4linkluv has modified his cross member to be removeable and he's had good luck with it. I think that's the only way you'll be able to leave in the core support.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2002 6:39 am 
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Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 6:37 am
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Location: Soddy Daisy
Thanks ben!
I wonder if 4linkluv has any pictures of his crossmember?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2002 9:26 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 10:07 am
Posts: 497
Location: Backwoods of Redding CA
I guess you could try to save it, one alternative to getting around the upper support would be to install the motor and trans in a modular fashion, just install the trans using a floor jack, then with the tranny supported drop the motor in then mate the two up in the chassis. Note: this is very difficult wihtout adequate firewall clearance since the trans bolts are tight. I had to do this when I swapped the tranny in my 75, however I won't do it again. Just pulling the motor/trans as a unit would have saved me a day of pain and anguish. I learned a very valuable lesson that weekend, if you need to pull the trans, the motor has to come out unless you have some fancy crossmember mods.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2002 8:35 am 
here is a suggestion for ya'll........when i installed my hopped up v-6 in my 1976 I took my factory LUV radiator to the radiator shop and this guy worked magic on it.........he took my tanks off the stock radiator and ordered a 4 row core and modified the tanks to fit on the stock dimensioned core........he then remounted the "wings" for mounting the radiator in the stock location.....the filler hole stayed in the stock location and he increased the size of the outlets on the tanks to fit the larger v-6 hoses i needed to use.......

and on top of all that he mad e sure that it had the trannt cooler provisions in it as well......so i didn't have to use the add-on tranny cooler that only leads to higher rediator temps anywasy with it blocking the air to the front of the radiator.......

it was trick easy to install and on top of that it was only 146 bucks for a custom one-off radiator..........

tranny srossmembers.....i thought i was going to have to pull the motor to get my tranny out too.....BUT.......I put a jack under the tranny pan (with a block of wood to spread the loading of course) and simply took the tranny mount loose and the n jcked the tranny up a half inch then I took the tailshaft off the tranny and slid it out......then i let the output shaft rest on the crossmember and the motor and tranny leaned back making it a snap to get to the tranny bolts.......then i took out all the bolts but the bottom 2 and lifted the tranny up again.......took out the last 32 bolts and lowered the tranny jack.......the front of the tranny tilts down(catch the converter!!!!!) and out it comes sliding past the motor just as sweet as you please.....

hope that helps......

rich jerozal


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 Post subject: radiator
PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2002 9:37 pm 
i kept my top rail by tilting the radiator like you said it worked great and clean i cant stand butchers who chop up the core sapport i used brackets from a 67-72 chevy truck and welded a piece of steel to the frame for the lowers and got those rubber thread insurts from lows or any hardware store they expand when u tighten them up for the top but i also pull my cab and bed to get the 327 in and out only takes about 20 minutes or so with a good beam and winch setup hope this helps

mike8cyl


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 am 
Butchers?LOL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 6:37 am
Posts: 1411
Location: Soddy Daisy
do you have any pictures or can you get any pictures of your setup?
thanks.

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 Post subject: Pictures
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 8:45 pm 
Give me some time and I can take some pictures and have my wife hook up with them via email or posting to this board. I'll get them asap.

Mike8cyl


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 Post subject: crossmember
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 11:06 pm 
the crossmember mods make trans service very easy, i went from 3hrs
removing the tailshaft to about 1hr to remove the trans. and my core
support is intact .you can find the mods in the info section on the main home page


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