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I have my truck down to the frame and i was wondering if it would be easier to put the whole drivetrain in with the cab and bed off. I just want to make sure that i can put the cab on after that. Is it possible or a pain in the a@#?

thats how they do it at the factory when they build them.

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03Cobra

Are you going with a v-8 or the stock 4? If it is the stock engine, bed and cab off will be easier. You won't tear up the paint as bad trying to get the engine and tranny in with the bed and cab on. In my opinion.

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Hammer to fit, paint to match.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
There's always room for duct tape and bailing wire.

WATCH YOUR PIEHOLE!!!!!!

That is what I did. It worked out quite well. My daughter and I ended up lowering the cab by ourselves and it was pretty tough, but if you either had a hoist or 3 buddies to help is would be much easier. I think it was much easier than when I put the drive train in afterwards.

I've had pretty good luck putting in engine and trans as a unit with the cab on. Last time I had a tranny out alone I decided next time the motor comes with it. Doing a clutch is so much easier out in the open. Then again, I've had a tractor with a boom on the front which makes lifting everything easier.

Im putting a v8 drivetrain in so how hard would it be to put the cab on over that?

That is a tough one. V8 and trans may require some finess (hammering) on the firewall and trans tunnel for the right fit. It might be easier to do this with the cab on a hoist rather than the engine, or it may not. I guess it depends on how well setup you are to lift and support either the engine and cab and how easy you can do some fit testing. It would suck to spend hours perfecting motor mounts and drivetrain mounting only to find you need to change something to fit the cab on. The other issue is whether the cab will fit down around the motor very easy in the first place, and that I'll leave for the V8 guys to answer. My guess is that it is going to be a pain, but probably about the same amount of pain as squeezing the engine in from the top would be.

When I was building my truck, I just used the bare block and 350 trans to build mounts. I then took the cab off, and sandblasted the frame, and rebuilt engine. Installed motor and set the cab on after I repaired all of it problems. Much easier this way if it is possible.

Where exactly do you have to hammer in the firewall on the cab? And how much hammering is needed?

I used the TH350, so you do not need to hammer on the tranny tunnel. If you are going to cut into the firewall, to make clearence for the distributor, I still do not think you will need to. Unless you are setting the motor way back into the firewall. From reading posts on the board, I think if you use a TH400, that is when you need to enlarge the tunnel.

I have a th350 but i want to get a 4-speed for the truck because its standard already, plus its alot more fun. Does any one know if you have to beat the trans tunnel in for a 4-speed or what. It came stock with one but i know thats a much smaller transmission. Lots of tips are helpfull. THANKS.

I always thought that manual trannies were smaller than autos if I remember right. If there are minimal modifications needed for an auto, then less is needed for a standard. The best way to do it is just try it. If you need to modify it, then you will know how much.

_________________
Hammer to fit, paint to match.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
There's always room for duct tape and bailing wire.

WATCH YOUR PIEHOLE!!!!!!