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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Hey guys, need a little input. Just picked up a 79 luv and it will be a strip only truck for the most part. Few questions i have are...

1) I see people running caltracs but i do not see them on their website specifically for a luv, are you guys modifying them or using ones built for a different vehicle or what?
2) As far as the front suspension goes, what exactly is needed to 5 lug swap it for a FORD bolt pattern AND run coil overs. please list specific parts if you know.
3) How big of a rear tire can you guys stuff under your trucks without mini tubing it or cutting the frame up?

These are the 3 main questions i have for now, but I am sure there will be more to follow. Any help would be much appreciated!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 11:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:54 pm
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Location: Pelahatchie, MS
The brake redrilling service on ebay is by a member here. It is to 5 on 4.5 I believe. I have a set of redrills by a local shop and they are small ford as well. The rotors are 2 piece and if you do the 5 on 4-3/4 the studs get into the shanks of the bolts that holds the hubs together. Call Cal trac and tell them you need some for a LUV, Hotrod80 here has had several sets made by them.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:39 pm 
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Location: Camarillo, CA
Hotrod80 has had great luck with cal trac and what tire sizes work. Message him or see f he sees this, he has helped many with these very questions. If you look up his treads you can see one over 10 pages of his build, that thread alone might answer your questions.

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=24885

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 11:30 pm 
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Thanks guys. I will do my best to get some pictures posted tomorrow. What i think is gonna happen is s&w roll cage. Calvert split mono-leaf with caltracs. quick performance ford 9" rear. And im just gonna break down and do the aerospace AC-247 kit. now on to the next set of questions.

1) can you run a 28x10.5 slick without mini tubing it or cutting the frame? if so, does anybody know how long the rear needs to be and what back spacing on the wheels, etc?
2) should i buy wheels and tires and then measure what length rear i need? or get a rear and measure what size wheels i need? or does it matter which way you do it?
3) will the split mono leafs and caltracs bolt right up or does there need to be cutting and modifying?
4) with the AC-247 kit, I am to understand that you use the stock spindals? So could I get tubular upper and lower a-arms, drop spindals to get the truck lower, coil overs, get rid of the torsion bars, and throw the AC-247 kit on?

Again, as always, thank you for the help guys!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:54 pm
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Location: Pelahatchie, MS
1. 26 x 10 was my norm when stock. With the right offset wheel the 28x10.5 might fit though, I would borrow a set to see first.
2. Always buy rear after buying wheels if possible. That way you cant tell the builder exactly how much room, so they can figue the brake offset.
3. Can't help with that.
4. Good luck with finding off the shelf tubular arms. I had to have some custom built. Beebani customs told me he could make some though, if we thought there was enough interest for a few sets. The Aerospace brakes will set the wheels slightly further out than they already are, so watch that when ordering front wheels. I run coilovers and ditched the torsion bars, no problem there, although the strut rod will need to stay in place from the lower a arm to the front of the truck...

My street truck and my pro touring chevelle both have quick 9 inches, good stuff...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:11 am
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Location: Baytown,Texas
jadejade13 wrote:
Thanks guys. I will do my best to get some pictures posted tomorrow. What i think is gonna happen is s&w roll cage. Calvert split mono-leaf with caltracs. quick performance ford 9" rear. And im just gonna break down and do the aerospace AC-247 kit. now on to the next set of questions.

1) can you run a 28x10.5 slick without mini tubing it or cutting the frame? if so, does anybody know how long the rear needs to be and what back spacing on the wheels, etc?
2) should i buy wheels and tires and then measure what length rear i need? or get a rear and measure what size wheels i need? or does it matter which way you do it?
3) will the split mono leafs and caltracs bolt right up or does there need to be cutting and modifying?
4) with the AC-247 kit, I am to understand that you use the stock spindals? So could I get tubular upper and lower a-arms, drop spindals to get the truck lower, coil overs, get rid of the torsion bars, and throw the AC-247 kit on?

Again, as always, thank you for the help guys!!!


1. Yes 28 x 10.5 will go on with no cutting
2. Probably the easiest way , but look at what is avalible and buy a popular wheel . If going small Ford pattern . Look at the off set the Mustang guys are using and build to that so wheels are readily avalable .
3. Smith race craft sell a Luv set up that is a bolt in . Every caltracs set up I have done required mods . After so many I decided it is just easier to buy the Afco front perch and swap to a more common 2.5 spring .
4. Aftermarket control arms are not going to happen . It will all be custom built and expensive . Factory parts are strong and not that heavy . I am still factory torsion bar still , but you lose 48# off the nose going coil over when the torsion bar stuff is removed .


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:11 am
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Location: Baytown,Texas
28 x 10.5 true on 15 x 12 wheel stock leafs and home made slappers rookie driver .
Image
Image
275/60/15 on 15 x 8
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This truck is completely stock except for SBC , TH350, ford 9 inch , redrilled rotors and sumped stock tank .


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:21 pm 
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Has anyone done the s&w cage kit? does the main hoop weld straight to the top of the frame or is there a short mounting bar off of the side of the frame that the main hoop welds to? someone PLEASE have some pictures for me.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Location: Baytown,Texas
jadejade13 wrote:
Has anyone done the s&w cage kit? does the main hoop weld straight to the top of the frame or is there a short mounting bar off of the side of the frame that the main hoop welds to? someone PLEASE have some pictures for me.


I have , been down that road . I used the mild steel roll bar . Main hoop ties to outriggers that fram tie . Also from crotch of seat belt bar to the top of the frame . I would also not go this route again . Find a chassis guy with some talent and have them build you a chromemoly roll bar . Truck will have better resale and be lighter .


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