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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:37 pm 
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im neck deep in my 4x4 4.3 swap and ran into a big snag
like the picture shows my tcase tbones my tbar :lol:
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and it needs to move another 3/4" or so before it will fit where it will end up
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im trying to figure out if it will cause any harm to move the mounting point of the t-bar about 1" closer to the frame rail to give me the clearance I need. im not thinking that the slight angle change will cause it to bind but im not 100% sure on that. if anyone could give me some insight to whether or not that's a viable option or not I would appreciate it. my only other option is to go with a coilover type setup and it would be very hard to make coils clear the front axles

what I am thinking I would need to do, do you see a problem with doing that?
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Moving it in board will in my opinion cause a bind. The shaft is straight, so by moving one end inboard the shaft can't be free. Take a pencil in your hand, grab the other end, now hold one end straight and move one hand in a bit, you will feel the bind.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:09 pm 
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that's what im worried about only difference is this is made to be able to be twisted to adjust the torsion so I was hoping it would stand being bent a bit over the length of the rod. it is a couple degree bend over the 4' or so of the bar. my dad and I are trying to figure out the best way to go about solving this. the part that's hitting the tbar is a support flange I could cut a chunk out of but I would rather not in case it opens up just enough to leak
anyone have a good idea?

I may have found a set of struts that will do what i need. Have to get some measurements tomorrow

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:04 pm 
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Correct, a torsion bar is made to be twisted, not bent. In Sprint car racing we ran torsion bars, one end of the frame that the torsion bar was held into was bent it caused a ton of issues with the suspension. We lost a race due to that in Hanford.

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Last edited by Luvrv8 on Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:11 pm 
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Gotya thats the kinda answer i was lookin for thanks i havent dealt with a torsion bar before didnt know if it had any side to side flex
Going to check into a set of strut/coils and see if i can make them of a similar set fit with the right springs. Seems like getting rid of the tbar is going to be the way to go for this build.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:32 pm 
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Are most of you thst are running coilovers still using the tbar and using the coil to help with the extra weight or uaing them to replace them entirely? I have been trying to find the right coilover strut to replace the tbar but 230lb springs dknt sound like enough to handle the weight

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:54 pm 
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No need to run a torsion bar and a coil over. There are three types of a spring for suspension, coil spring whether it be a coil over the shock or just a spring by its self, a torsion bar (that is a type of spring) or a leaf spring. There is no need to run two types together.

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Last edited by Luvrv8 on Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:07 pm 
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Gotya was trying to figure out if they were being used to add some additional load support or independently. So a 230lb/in spring will work i just have to find the right one for my odd mounting system probably a 10" with both ends eyelet mounted

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:15 pm 
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There are several things to look at. If you run a 10 inch spring you will need to find the correct weight spring for your loaded suspension. You won't know how much it will compress until you have your truck together and resting on them. There is a science to this, it's not just grab a spring and see what happens. No you will need to figure out what type of shock and they type of valves it has to work with what you need. You are basically trying to re invent the wheel here.

EDIT:

Let me go a step farther here. Let's say you run a 200# spring. If you run it straight up and down it will act as a 200# spring, if you kick it out 10 degrees is will act like a 180# spring. Shocks are the same way, in NASCAR they play with these angels and numbers for hundreds of hours for their set up. I am not saying you need to be as perfect as NASCAR but these are all factors in what you are doing.

If this was my truck I would do one of two things here:
1) raise or lower the power train to use the stock suspension
2) let Toyota do the work and math for you, get a Toyota front axel and leaf springs, shock mounts and install them.

When I was racing I had a shock and spring Dyno, you would be surprised of the numbers you get by a few degrees of angle. If not done correctly your truck will be all over the road and no fun to drive. Get back to the basics.

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Last edited by Luvrv8 on Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Sounds about right. Reinventing the wheel seems like its becoming a trend here. If i go lower with the powertrain im going to be sitting really close to the ground clearance is already less than stock. Yota straight axle isnt really an option for me. I could make it 2wd and forget this extra stuff all together and probably save a lot of time but i would need to get yet another tranny -.-

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 7:49 pm 
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Body lift...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:08 pm 
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Really dont want to lift the truck at all i like it where its at now any higher up and im going to lose cornering ability. Going to make it rwd and be done with it. Gotta sell trans and case to buy a rwd manual tranny and new clutch for it. I only kept the 4wd because i had it to begin with i dont need it much. Sucks to give it up but at this point i just want the truck to run and drive i could make it work but 2wd is cheaper easier and will work fine for my needs. Gotta make a junkyard run at some point for control arms hubs etc from a 2wd but for now just going to swap trannys get a driveline made and get back on the road. Thanks for the input guys really had no idea where to go with it

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:03 am 
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You could always make it a parts truck and save yourself a ton of time and money? There are Luv's all over the northwest to pick from.

This one already has a V6 and has been listed for quite a while so the $1200 price might be negotiable by now.
http://olympic.craigslist.org/cto/4093254250.html

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v6luv.jpg [ 33.88 KiB | Viewed 9010 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:32 pm 
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No space to store a parts truck sadly i wish i had one. I have the trans and case listed on CL and my buddy is going to buy that rx7 rearend for his drift car project. It shouldnt take much money to go 2wd mostly time. Kinda sucks but im limited on space and funds. I like the idea and simplicity of 2wd my dad and i talked it over and worked out a game plan for getting it done right without this continuous back and forth with parts and plans
It will be a lot less of a pain since the cab is already outta the way and i just got my welder up and runnig it needed a new wire liner so i can get this project rolling and back kn the road. Engines ready to go i just need the tranny and need the rear driveline from the suburban shortened and from there it will drive

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 3:11 pm 
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Can you just use a clocking ring to change the transfer case angle to make room for both?
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=p ... duct_id=64


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 5:55 pm 
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It had been mentioned but it would bring the case too low im sitting at stock height

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:57 am 
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Have room under the body to clock it up?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:03 pm 
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Not witbout a body lift. Im gonna run down there and see how much clearance i would end up with if i clock it down. Any idea how many degrees it rotates? Birthday today so not a whole lot of time to spend out there but i would like to give my options a quick run thru

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:39 pm 
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This is the only one that i could find that lists their degree change, and they have the most positions.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/6boltclockingrings.htm


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:22 pm 
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Man thanks for that link with that many options i may be able to make that work for me. Will check when i get back home.

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