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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:16 pm 
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Location: Poulsbo WA
i just finished grinding to bare metal and por 15-ing the frame under my bed... under the cab will be for another time haha. anyways im moving onto the fun stuff. paintin the body! i'll post pictures later dont worry. the guy that painted this before me brushed the paint on so i have lots of sanding to do

im looking at supplies from summit racing. what sort of primer would you guys suggest? if you have something better than summit i'd be open for that too..

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:48 pm 
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Ok, before I type a book, how much painting experience do you have? What's your knowledge and equipment available?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:59 pm 
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okay i have an 80gal compressor. nooo spray gun yet :( ive never painted a vehicle. hah... uhmm product wise treat me like a 19 year old lol

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:01 pm 
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i can get away with painting in the garage. also have a great woodstove in there so 90 degrees baking temp is possible

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:48 pm 
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Pridkid wrote:
i can get away with painting in the garage. also have a great woodstove in there so 90 degrees baking temp is possible

Paint fumes are explosive...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:29 am 
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Well it all depends on how good you want it to turn out. I have touched every part of my luv with an DA, sandblaster or by hand. It has taking me a year to get mine painted. (I just got it painted today) 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:12 am 
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I have painted several in my shop. I made a makeshift paint booth from heavy duty plastice I wrapped around a 2x4 and then screwed to the ceiling. When I'm done I just wrap it up with bungee straps until the next time. I wet the floor a little and leave the garage door cracked with a fan pushing air out from under the door. This is not the ideal painting situation but I don't have access to a paint booth anymore.

Ok, you have an air compressor that will suffice for sure. You will need an air dryer hooked up in line somewhere downline usually 25 to 30 feet. I bought 10 foot sections of copper pipe and put them up accordian style (Back and forth) This allows the air to cool some before it gets to the dryer. Most dryers come with a regulator and you will definitely need one.

I'm way outdated with the paint I use. Paints have come a long ways since I was painting for a living back in the early 80's but I still use Acrylic enamel and sometimes Acrylic Laquer. I haven't updated to the new stuff. I am sure I will leave something out but here goes a good run at it. If you are stripping your truck down to bare metal, don't get to aggressive with how heavy of sandpaper you use. You will just have to come back over and remove all the hard scrathes later. To remove all the paint...nothing more aggressive than 120 grit paper works for me. Then come back over the bare metal with 180 to about 240 grit paper and a double action samder. (I use the double action sander for all this)If you can feel a scratch, you will see it. There are some high fill primers out there that will take out some of these but it takes experience to tell what will and what won't. Before you start sanding uses a good decal remover to take those off. You will make a mess doing this...or at least I always do. I cannot stress prep work enough. When you think you are ready prep prep prep some more. Don't try to get then entire truck ready in day or at one time. I usually attack about two panels at a time. That way when i'm mixing body filler I can usually use it all verses losing the excess from one spot letting it dry on the mixing board. If you are leaving it in the shop all the time is a good thing but for me personally, when I have to take one out of the shop over night I either cover bare metal or prime them. Which is where a paint gun comes in. PLEASE SOMEONE ELSE WADE IN HERE WITH WHAT YOU USE. I'm using and old devilbiss siphon feed for a primer gun and equally as old Binks Model 7 for my paint gun. I got these somewhere btween '82 and '84. THere are better guns out there (mainly gravity fed) and they take less air and utilize more of the paint. (less paint loss due to overspray and vapors).I only paint one or two a year for myself and family so I just use what I am familiar with. I had been out of the paint business for years and alot had changed even for me. I guess now most products want you use a metal etching product. I have never used any of these except for when priming with Zinc Chromate and i doubt you will use any of that. However if anyone else pops up with more current info here you should probably take it. THis should get you started, I will cover more later. Headed to church now.

Forget baking the paint on. That is waaaaaaay beyond what you are doing. Besided 90 degrees from a wood stove would not be enough. Or cover enough area. Forget that totally.

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2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:17 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23346&p=170822&hilit=my+sons+truck#p170822

The link above is what we did to my sons truck a while back. Check it out if you want.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:35 am 
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for primer use a good filler primer. but if you took down to metal you have to use etching primer first as your 1st coat of primer or no primer or paint will last. then go and get a nice single stage paint that will be the best for a newbie has clear in it already. make sure you read how to mix your primers and paint. you cant just buy primer pour it in your gun and shoot. you need reducers and harder. you can go on ebay and get complete kits cheap. that way if you mess up you learn alot and doesnt hit pocket book hard. then before you do it read everything you can about how to paint. I would recommend a gravity feed gun.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:42 am 
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thanks guys! this will help me a ton. I've got a few more weeks in body work for my bed, but I just like figuring things out ahead of time. gives me somethin to think about. I'll post more updates and show ya how its comin later!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:24 pm 
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Pics always help. Good luck and keep us posted....ask if you get stumped.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 10:43 pm 
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update: making progress!


Attachments:
File comment: how should i tackle the rust in here?? (cheaply but permenently)
rust.jpg
rust.jpg [ 43.12 KiB | Viewed 16857 times ]
File comment: still strippin for paint
bed.jpg
bed.jpg [ 87.37 KiB | Viewed 16857 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:33 am 
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as you can see from the photos im taking the bed down to bare metal, i kept finding little pockets of rust that hadnt broken through yet so i wanted to "clean house" the cab is a different story im going to start sanding that down today or tomorrow but it doesnt need to be taken down to metal. Should i buy two different primers? (metal etch for the bed and a normal filler primer for the cab)?

also my tailgate and the cross sections of the bed are soaking in a molasses bath, i'll tell ya how that one goes after a few weeks haha

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:01 pm 
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I would also suggest to make sure that everything is absolutely CLEAN! Nothing worse than having to re-shoot paint when there is fisheyes or trash in the paint. I painted at Daktronics for 4 years. Have everything clean and tacked before you paint.Use compressed air(that has been through a line dryer/water separator) to blow any solvent out of cracks then tack. I would also say to make sure to use the appropriate type of reducer with your paint and add hardener(if required). I would use an acid etching primer then a filling primer. Then block sand any high spots ,use body filler then prime again. If you look at your public library you should be able to search for how to books on body work and paint.Make sure that you don't use too fine of sandpaper...you can actually make the pores of the metal close if you sand it with too fine of a paper!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:27 pm 
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SPI primers
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I can not say enough good things about these folks.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:33 am 
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Thanks for all the advice guys! I did my reading and everything, I'll shoot the first layer of primer in 2 weeks or so. Heres a picture of my progress for ya


Attachments:
69260_10200761424743747_1582241144_n.jpg
69260_10200761424743747_1582241144_n.jpg [ 100.25 KiB | Viewed 11473 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 8:23 pm 
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If it were me I'd do a "$50 paint job". Its slightly thinned rustoleum put on with a wienie roller. I did a big 54 chevy truck and it looked really good. I know my LUV is not worth a fancy paint job even though I hate to admit it. Lots of info online.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:36 pm 
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80chevyluv wrote:
If it were me I'd do a "$50 paint job". Its slightly thinned rustoleum put on with a wienie roller. I did a big 54 chevy truck and it looked really good. I know my LUV is not worth a fancy paint job even though I hate to admit it. Lots of info online.


yeah I thought about doing that as well, but i thought what the heck. might as well splurge with a $150 dollar paint job ;) Also RIGHT before i bought it the previous owner thought it would help to paint the whole truck in this thick gunky latex house paint. It's taken me probably 4 months or prep to scrap off... I dont have the money for a sandblast, otherwise it woulda been no big deal.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:56 am 
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Try to keep the gun back about a foot and a half or more from the truck and let the paint"build" like with a spray can...when you get to the end or a beginning of where you are painting flick your wrist right or left so you don't have "stop" marks...they cause runs.Overlap you pattern at least half. If you get it on thin at least you can put on another coat.Thinner coats are better...the paint flash dries faster and doesn't puddle.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:54 pm 
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Also sand it smoother before paint.I would go with at the lightest 200 grit if not finer...paint will be smoother but don't go over 250 grit...it can close the pores of the metal and the primer won't stick.


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