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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:17 pm 
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This weekend I'm having a friends dad help me slam my truck, we are doing 3 inch blocks, and either flipping the leaf pack or removing two leafs, I want to know what you guys think would be better for getting lower, and also what will ride better, I assume flipping the pack is better for how the truck rides, but tell me what you guys think.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:14 pm 
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Just the blocks will get it low enough that you will have to cut the bump stops in half. Just do the blocks and then look at it and drive it. You might be satisfied like that. If you need more, I would remove a leaf or two.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:48 pm 
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I recomend the blocks and the overload leaf only.

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Also will I need to get alignment done?? I rea it's about 50-70 bucks, and if that's true, I'm not sure ill be driving my truck for awhile after I lower it to get that done, I'm only 16 with no job except mowing lawns, and that's not the fastest way to make cash.

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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:55 pm 
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It is highly recommended to get a allignment after lowering.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 8:12 am 
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Lowering the front suspension radically increases the negative camber angle of your front wheels- they will splay out at the bottom.
This will not only make the truck drive strange it will quickly wear the inside tire edge. Weigh the cost of an alignment against the cost of two new front tires.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:12 am 
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Toe will be off too.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 12:08 pm 
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How much does it usually cost?

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 1:54 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Toe will be off too.

X2 on that, but you have to get the camber angle right before the toe-in can be set.
Here locally an alignment with no parts needed is about $60.
The problem arises in that if you have parts that are worn & loose enough the alignment can't be set correctly until the parts are replaced. To adjust just the camber on a LUV typically does not require parts, you just move upper control arm shims from one side of the adjusting plate to the opposite side. Toe-in is just turning an adjuster. What can be worn are both upper & lower ball joints, control arm bushings, strut rod bushings & tie rod ends. Most of these you can replace yourself without paying to have it done during the alignment session.
Try this- you know after lowering it will need an alignment & about what it will cost, what you don't know is if it will need any additional parts & what they will cost. Talk to your alignment shop, see if they will inspect your truck to see what is worn & needs replaced (they will often do this free or for a minimal charge, especially if they know you will be a future customer). It's OK to be honest with them & tell them you are broke & can't afford the new parts or the alignment right now but that you want an estimate so you can start accumulating funds. Also if you want to try installing yourself whatever new parts you need & you are capable of installing to save money that's OK too- they will still get to do the final alignment. But you must do this before you start the lowering while your truck is still drive able, 'cause once you start the lowering it may not be.
Personally I would delay the lowering until I had the funds to get it back on the road & use the truck in the meantime.

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'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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