LUVTruck.com

ok so here it goes i got all of the factory electrical back in spec and working perfectly.... but im add and ocd and just couldnt stand driving with out bass (reference my introduction thread for further info)

so to install an amp i needed an alternator that could supply the amp draw needed... well instead of doing a normal build... and swaping out the stock alternator... i was in the process of pulling out the stock alternator when i noticed that the 99 dodge ram 1500 alternator i had bought would bolt up with very few modifications to the smog pump bracket (theres bushings on the manifold side of the bracket that i ground down) then on to fabbing a tensioner which was done with parts salvaged from a FORD alternator (same place i got the v-belt pully) bracket and the bracket from the smog pump...

pictures to follow


but then i thought why mess with the electrical of the truck if i can just wire the second alternator to a second battery and mount it behind the drivers seat... hum not a bad idea.... (i started working on the truck at 10pm its now 5am) except that the dodge ram alternator i bought is externally regulated...


any one know how i can either wire in to the stock voltage regulator... or a stand alone voltage regulator that i can use with this alternator?

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

On the 6 wire plug from the VR white red = W = fuel pump and charge light, white = W = ignition, white blue = B = battery, black = E = earth, British for ground, white black = F = field, the stem of the Tee connector to the alternator, and white green = N feeds back to the VR.

The stock VR needs a 6-7 volt signal on the white green wire to produce the 12 volts to the charge light and fuel pump relay. I don't know if your Dodge alternator produces the 6-7 volt signal.

If you find a voltage regulator meant to work with it, either the alternatgor or VR should produce the 12 volts meant for a charge light. Wire the alternator and VR connections as meant for the Dodge. Wire the charge light to the white/red. Wire the ignition and battery to the the proper terminals of the new VR.

what i will be doing is running dual alternators the stock alternator will be running the truck its self i.e. all of the factory lights and wiring... the second alternator will be running my amp (thinking amps later on down the road) i will find room hahaha

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

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_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

I would wire in the stock VR from the donor vehicle. You would have to wire it into the ignition switch so you didn't burn it up. It would be a lot easier then you have the right amount of power to excite the field that crosses the windings that makes the power. Also lessens the chance of an electrical fire.

i ended up using a voltage regulator out of an 84 dodge van to use with the 99 dodge alternator this is what the dodge ram guys are doing when the vr in the pcm goes out.... it is regulating @13.81v when ideling and 14.2v @ 2k rpm (to my 4k rpm shift point)

... right now it is wired direct to the spare battery which needs to be fixed (since it constantly pulls power when the truck is running or off)


will i have any voltage issue jumping from one charging system to the other and using the ignition switch as my on/off for the voltahe regulator on the second charging system? or should i install a switch from the battery to the power wire?

ok so i answered that my self because the voltage regulator power wire tells the voltage regulator what the voltage @ the battery is... so is there another way that i can wire the second voltage regulator to the ignition switch (on/running) with out it reading the power from the primary charging system? i mean a toggle switch will work but the only time i will remember to turn this on is when the voltage of the battery isn't high enough to power the amp and i have no bass...

which for now if fine till i start the next round of electrical upgrades... and or i need the spare battery to start the truck... ???

what are all yall's thoughts?

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

How about a relay? Connect the coil to the stock ingition, and the extra battery and and Dodge VR ignition to the contacts. That would keep the 2 systems completely isolated, but switch the VR on with the ignition as it normally would be.

thanks labman that was my original thought but i didnt think it would work the logic is sound lol

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

It really should work, you could tie the whole sound system tot he relay. Turn the key on and the relay closes powering up everything in the second electrical system. Do you have the amp on a relay? Sounds like too big of a load for a switch.

ok so i picked up a relay today and have a few questions...




here is the relay schematic (for reference)

so i know
pin 85 goes to chassis ground (check)
pin 87 (or in my case 87 or 87a) goes to the battery

now the question is pin 86 and pin 30

i am going to assume that pin 30 will be my voltage regulator and pin 86 will come in from the ignition switchr???

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

the only thing being pulled through the relay will be the exciter/ignition wire for the dodge voltage regulator.. yes i could get away with a 15 amp toggle switch... but to be honest this is a daily driver not a race truck.. i want to get in and hit the ignition switch and power everything up... hell my 95 240sx didn't even have an ignition switch... i jumped in turned on the battery cut off switch and hit the starter button... (to kill it i turned off the battery)

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

The image didn't come through. I will try to explain. You should 2 contacts with a coil between them shown as a spiral. One may already be grounded. The other goes to your ignition. Do you have contacts labeled common, com, normally open, NOC? Connect com to the second battery. Connect NOC to the second VR.

here is the relay schematic (for reference)

ok so even after installing this relay i am still getting voltage draw so either i have hooked up the relay wrong or with 2 items hooked to the spare battery

even though both are switched on and off with the ignition~
the amp is turned on/off with the head unit
and the the second voltage regulator is suppose to be switched on/off with the relay

http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring.php

ok so how i have it wired is 85/86 are my switch 85 comes in from ignition and 86 is my ground ... with these 2 connected to power/ground i do not have resistance across 30/87 till i turn the ignition switch on/acc and i can hear the magnetic pick up open close when i turn the ignition on/acc....

as for 30 this is my power from the second battery and 87a is mypower to the voltage regulator.....

wait never mind i had my power to the voltage switched off 87a no friggen wonder.... it is draining... helps if you find the proper reference material...

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

I found their schematic and explaination both non standard and hard to follow.

yeah that is a bit difficult to follow... as there intended application is different and the write up is all over the place but therte is good info in there...

The original schematic/artical i used/read and the parts store i got the relay at both said i could use contact 87 or 87a for my switched voltage output for my application... i changed the contact point on the relay from 87a to contact 87 and it has stopped the voltage drain from my second battery (87a is constant draw from contact 30 or your secondary source of power)...

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion