LUVTruck.com

ok so now that i have my luv running @ 100% its time to start dealing with fulfilling my signature....


first off is going to be with electrical...

ok so now on to questions of upgradeability....


ok so now that i have all of the electrical and mechanical stuff on the truck taken care of and running better then stock its time to start upgrading and getting this truck whipped back in to shape and getting o.e. quality up to 2012 o.e. spec

several things i want to do

First replace the stock headlights with aftermarket semi-sealed beam (with bulb) and do a full conversion to dual beam setup (running both sets of lights for high beam and low beam) since it is illegal to run true hid in this state

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-3-4-HALOGEN-H ... 4842886ebb

something like this yeah i want to increase the power output of them just a bit hehe

so the setup as i have pieced together as of right now works as such i have 4" 3-ways in the doors (need to finish the mounting plates for them)

ill make some kick panels for the rear behind the seat belts and mount a pair of 6x9's i think... unless i decide differently on size...

for sub and amp i will be running an older power acoustik ov2-300 and a pioneer shallow mount
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_620 ... 2-300.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130SBOX10U ... nd|Pioneer

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_110 ... SW251.html


ill get pictures later...



so after installing a brand new 35 amp alternator it wont do the job so i need to upgrade that to an alternator that can push a minimum of 100 amps does any one make them that will directly bolt in place of the stock Hitachi 3 wire?


so using watts law v*i=w watts / voltage = amps

so 100w / 14.4 v = 6.94 X 4 lights = 28 amps at full draw with 100% efficiency or 37amps @75% efficiency for the lights

head unit = 150w (minimum max output) and the amp = 300watt max output

450 / 14.4 = 31.25 amps @ full power with 100% efficiency or 42amps @ 75% efficiency... electronics never work at 100% efficiency due to heat and voltage resistance through the wiring so

so if i figure that the stock electrical needs 25 amps to operate + the additional ~75 amps for the new lights and stereo thats 100 amps minimum... hum so i guess ill have to find a place to install a second battery...

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Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

find someone around you that does rewinds on your alt may be the only way you can go to get 100 plus amps and mount in factory spot

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LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

yeah i thought about that but your talking a 342% increase in power output *p.s.* of the alternator i severely think that the outer casing will be incompatible with the winding due to heat and cooling... that was a thought that had gone through my head this morning

*p.s* if 100amp is 100% duty cycle of the alternator i would need a 120-150 amp alternator to get a proper duty cycle out of it for cooling and longevity


now on to the next set of questions the head lights are already fused both high beam and low beam and the dimmer switch (5 fuses just for the head lights) so the fuse panel is already setup for the head light upgrade the question is should i run a relay and or larger wires to the headlights to allow for the higher amp draw (i believe there 16-18awg already) or should i rewire them in the process for 12awg?

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

ok so i have done a bit more research and found this REPD330106 its a 136 amp alternator out of a 99 dodge dakota (all the motors use the same alternator) a little bit of alteration and a pully swap.... its externally regulated so it should work... with some wiring alterations

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

found what i needed in a dodge ram 3500... $32 with core charge and tak it come to $38.84 i think i can get on with life paying the $4 core charge
uses an external voltage regulator and is 3-wire setup so wiring will be exactly the same as some of the replacement stock units (ill have to run jumper wires to the stock harness but no big)

as for mounting the alternator the rear bracket is 1/4" forward more then the stock unit being removed but it uses a pressed in bearing so there is room for modification and alteration to get it to fit perfectly.... as for the upper mount

(its only 1/4" difference in bracket placement in the rear) thanks o'rilly auto for ordering in 5 alternators

will be going with the highest factory offered amperage with the 136a option

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion