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After a long pain in the ass electrical problem with my regulator fuse that keep blowing, I bought an EZ wiring harness. The main reason I bought this brand, is that the on each wire it's labeled every 5 inches. I think I can wire most of the harness on my own, but will probably need be posting a few questions when I get to wiring in the new harness.

My first thoughts are, what will I need from the old harness to use with the new. I'm using the stock instrument panel, so that plug seems pretty unique.
I'm going to use a light tester and label all the wires on that plug. The harness does come with prewired GM plugs for the steering column. I'm wondering if any one else that's used an EZ can tell me if they are able to use all the plugs. I may either buy some new plugs or older GM plugs. I'm all for just plugging things into the harness and making it EZ.

My next few questions have to do with routing the wires. After reading the instructions (yes I actually did read them lol) EZ stated that the fuse panel was designed for the drives side wall of cab (a flat surface is a must). However I'm wondering if anyone has mounted this in the engine compartment, similar to the stock fuse panel? The next routing question is the tail light section. EZ says they designed it more to a cars route, going through the floor to the rear. I think I like the original way the wires go through the firewall and then go down to the frame. I'd like to hear your guys 2 cents on these two options.

Thanks!

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

The first bit of advise I will give you is do not throw any part of your old wiring harnas away intil you are completely done with the rewire job. I mounted by fuse box on the drivers side of the cab under the dash. I would not install it in the engine compartment, because moisture can get at it. And yes I ran my wires back out the firewall and followed the same route the factory wires took to the taillights. It worked very well. Just take your time, it's not that tough of a job.

What do you plan on doing for a alt and voltage regulator? I ask because the painless kit wont have a provision for the stock luv alt/reg.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

When you say provision do you mean just how they hook up to the harness?
I'm thinking if I had to I could get an alternative alternator, and put the pully piece of the stock and put it on the new one.
I have also know that the Luv voltage regulater comes with 2 diffrent type plugs.
Mine is a round plug, but they also came with a square type of plug.
I'd like to hear more about anyone else that has done this though. They do have a tech supporter with EZ, so I can ask them quetions too.

Most trucks have the fuse panel in the cab and the wires that need to run down the frame. a lot on new cars have the fuse panel in the engine compartment. The main concern is to keep it dry and other engine compartment crud from getting in it.

My Saturn Vue and Chevy Equinox have the fuse panels in the engine compartment.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

So I'm taking a look at the wire diagram for the instrument panel.
I see that the fuel and temp guage have one wire (or on circuit board?) that connects them
and then a sperate wire is the power or is it a ground?

The connecting wire is a common ground...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

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Is the common ground a wire or part of the circuit board? I just want to know if any of the wires that come of the instrument plug are ground wire/s.

They all go to the printed circuit board. The gauges get constant power and the oil pressure/temp sending unit supply a variable ground. The same goes for the fuel tank sending unit, E brake light etc. You will have to splice the stock plug to your new harness. I just did mine on my 76, the previous owner had a aftermarket gauge pack on it and I went back to stock, it takes time but doable. If you are not real good at reading a schematic I would advise against it. I love electrical so it is enjoyable for me. Both of my LUV's have stock wiring harnesses/fuse boxes that I modified to each truck.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

The hardest part of using the schematic is the fine print! lol I scanned both pages and then spliced the fuse box and the instrument panel section together. I see that the Y(ellow) lead looks like is the common ground. As it runs through guages and illum lights. The Y lead then runs into junctions into a few other splits in the wires, but then goes into the fuse box.
My question is the Y lead the ground? I put some small red dots to help show how the where the Y lead goes.

I think all other leads are very straight foward and I can splice the old plug wires into the harness.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

Again, the dash board is powered and what ever the light or gauge is to be working is looking for the ground from its sending unit. The Y is power. I really think the EZ harness will be tough for you to install.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I have to agree that the stock intrument panel will be a tough thing for me to wire in. I would consider going with aftermarket guage set.

With stock wiring my regulator fuse that keeps blowing, I dont' have much choice. I did have my mechanic spend a couple of hours and he coudn't find anything wrong with it.

I just cant understand why you or your mechanic cant find your short. Things like that I like to work on and fix.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Its a strange that the fuse doesnt blow right away. You have to drive it awhile and then it blows
Well I unwrapped all the electrical tape on the wires that came off that fuse to look for a short, but didnt find any. It's just not safe to drive if the fuse keeps blowing.

If anyone wants to look at more on the fuse.Here's the link to my orignal post just on the fuse blowing: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16677&start=0

If your alternator and regulator are good...you shouldn't have any problems. My truck was constantly popping the regulator fuse because the alternator was screwed up and the regulator couldn't control it's output. A quick test of my alternator at autozone told me it was shot...and I replaced the regulator just for GP. It's been running fine ever since.

Time for a new mechanic that knows what the hell he's doing with your electrical system maybe? If you were close by me - I'd fix it for ya.

Like he said if you were closer to me I would have it fixed in no time. Best of luck to you in your harness install. I still think the stock harness is the way to go, there is a problem that I would bet is not in the harness.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

To address Taz's comment first, I did put in a new voltage regulator after the fuse started blowing, and my mechanic tested the output of the altenator and it was fine.

My brother recommend a local shop that does audio and electrical work. I'm going to see if they can figure something out. If that doesn't work then I will end up using the EZ harness.