LUVTruck.com

Hi my name is brandon and im new to this site and i was wanting to know and tips on puting a ford 351w in a luv? its a 78 mikado

This shouldn't be to hard if you have some metal fab skills .

Tip #1 Don't do it!!!

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"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

dont put a f*$& in it!
i almost put one in mine 429 big block
get a chevy

I want to do something different than the sbc route. I had the 351w motor built for a mustang but they are everywhere.

The thread is not i bought the wrong motor for my auto shop project , it's give me some help with HIS project .

With that said , you can really move the motor back since the distributer is up front . I would thing a fox body shorty would be a good header option . You are going to fab a tranny mount anyway , so why not for an AOD or 5 speed with hydraulic clutch . These ford motor are a good base for performance upgrades . The 5.0 has a little lower deck height and they are everywhere . I saw five complete fuel injected five-O's in the local salvage yard still in the cars ( lincons , cougars , merc marquis ) . One of these days I need to measure the width on a fox mustang rear axle . These can be converted to 5 lug by using 2 ranger axles from the same short side and drums . Just my .02 . Maybe I should just be looking for a Courier .

thanks for the info hotrod i have the motor mounts done i used dirt track style mounts in it and i mocked up so mustang shorty's too im going with a c4 trans an a s10 rearend for now i had one laying around with 3.42 gears in it
if you shot me a im on the specs for those toyota hub spacers that would be helpful thanks

Read the the sticky at the start of this forum as it has all the info you will need for the toyota hub conversion.

Good luck with your project and you will enjoy the light weight and torque of the 351W. This should be one good street truck. Send pic's when you can we would like to see you progress.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Shoot me a pm with your address and i'll ship you the other set I had made . I've had no interest in them and i hate to see them go to waste . As T.J. ( who invented the toyota rotor swap ) said post some pics so we can see your progress , think of it as payment for the spacers .

pm send

sorry this is my 5th post so I can post pictures lol

now you can

testing posting pictures if it works this is it in the truck

it worked
ok heres the clearance on the balancer to the crossmember

ok heres the mustang shortys mocked up

motor mounts


whats left of the core support

Looks like the water pump is gonna give ya fts...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

why didn't you set it back farther? a sledge hammer to the tunnel will do wonders for clearance

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72 luv v-8 owned since 16!
240" rear engine dragster
traded the circle track cars for a blown 496 chevy
[color=#FF8000]
29 dodge 4 dr sedan (project)
84 ranger 2wd "tuff truck" with 350 sbc

it as far back as it can go the driver side heads is 1in away from the firewall

oh and the water pump should clear im going to run a Griffin aluminum radiator with Electric Fan and make the hood a pin on

Cool , hope everyhting works out . keep us posted .

Although I'm not a big fan of the f-word...lol, IMHO a properly built 302 or a 351 is a strong-running reliable stout engine.

Years ago, when I used to have a need for a strong built full-sized work truck, a shortbed '79 f-word flatbed with dually's is what I had with a 351w/C4 combo. The freakin' ugly beat-up old thing was built like a tank and it was reliable as hell.

There's nothing wrong with being different and using what you have. At least you picked a decent f-word engine to use. It looks like you know what you are doin' - but I don't know how well (or how long) the S-10 rearend is gonna hold up with all of that muscle under the hood though.

But it should be a real screamer when it's all done!

Nice work...welcome aboard and good luck with your project!