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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 6:52 am 
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I pulled the upper arms of a trooper today and compared the to a Luvs, allthough there not identical they perform the same function.
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Trooper left Luv right
The mounting point of trooper arm is the same as the Luvs, the ball joint is different but uses the same taper. The reason behind why im going to try fitment of theese arms to my Luv is so i can flip the ball joint an get more articulation, it also allows a better alignment if your Luv has maximum torsion bar crank.
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.ht ... acer_Howto
This explains better.

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LUVTRKR wrote:
It does have a license plate so technically it is a street truck, that sets off car alarms and makes kids cry. lol


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Fitted the Trooper top arm to the Luv today.
Image
It fits perfectly and cant see any problems. Bolted it all up and put the wheel back on and let the jack down.
Image
I noticed straight away that i now have more clearence between the arm and bumpstop. Therefor i now have more suspension travel.
Here a pic of how my Luv rides with the Luv arms, my t bars are cranked for max lift and the arms ride on the bumpstops.
Image

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LUVTRKR wrote:
It does have a license plate so technically it is a street truck, that sets off car alarms and makes kids cry. lol


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:36 pm 
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Hey that's pretty cool that you put the trooper A arms on.
Did you use the stock Ball joint or did you just the ball joint for the Trooper? Let us know if how it rides and if any more mods are needed.
:D

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:21 am 
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he would have to use the Trooper BJ's...the mounting is different from the Luv's...OZ...great work, next time I'm at the salvage yard I'll be looking for some Trooper A-arms and doing this mod myself...having the extra room should allow for a bit more lift 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 3:33 am 
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You need to use the Trooper ball joints, you need to flip the joint also to allow more travel. Bolt the b j up from underneath the arm, be sure to use high tensile bolts and lock nuts. You may want to mod the bump stop a little, ive taken the Luv bump out and used a chunk of rubber with a counter sunk bolt.

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LUVTRKR wrote:
It does have a license plate so technically it is a street truck, that sets off car alarms and makes kids cry. lol


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:14 am 
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what year trooper will work


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:27 am 
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br549 wrote:
what year trooper will work


They were all the same up till mid 87 i think.

Definately good till 84.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:32 pm 
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I'd say up until 86...the 87's we got here were a combo of old and new...some were 8bolt/10bolt, others 10bolt/10bolt...and in late 87 you had 10bolt/12bolt Troops with the 2.6 (really 88's but made and sold in 87)

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:42 am 
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rezkid wrote:
I'd say up until 86...the 87's we got here were a combo of old and new...some were 8bolt/10bolt, others 10bolt/10bolt...and in late 87 you had 10bolt/12bolt Troops with the 2.6 (really 88's but made and sold in 87)


Yeah thats it, super confusion. Along with all that the wheel tracks changed too, hence i would say different arms.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:13 pm 
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So from an 84-86 Trooper will work. Just curious to see those of you have already done it and how you like the results.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:09 pm 
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Will that work on the 2wd as well, kinda hard to find upper ball joints, and seems to be a pain to get them off.

thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:57 am 
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Dont know if the upper arms are different. I would say they are.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 6:46 am 
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Question for those who have done the max T-bar lift...


Are you using a particular shock absorber to soften the ride now?

Mine has been maxed out since I owned it, and it is rougher than a corn cob.
I am using the "recommended" Gabriel shocks front and rear.
The rear has another 2 inch Rough Country spring lift also.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:27 am 
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If you ride is bouncy, gas shocks will help. If your ride is stiff, and probably is with the t bars all the way up, then shocks won't help. The job of shocks is to slow down and stop the bouncing up and down that the springs are doing.
With the t bars cranked up tight for all the lift you can get, then your not having a bouncing problem. Your ride is stiff, with no bounce.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:13 am 
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You could try re indexing the torsion bars to reduce the spring rate.



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:35 pm 
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What about the CV axle? Will this mod put to much of an angle on it?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 11:41 pm 
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Lifting the front of any 4x4 thats not a beam axle the first problem you will run into is with the drive shafts.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:02 am 
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rodeobob wrote:
Lifting the front of any 4x4 thats not a beam axle the first problem you will run into is with the drive shafts.


bob.


This I know, that is why I asked. So to those of you who did this mod does this mod put too much angle on your CV axles?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:13 am 
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Yeah sorry, what i said was a little bit 'captain obvious'


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 5:44 pm 
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McLuvin wrote:
rodeobob wrote:
Lifting the front of any 4x4 thats not a beam axle the first problem you will run into is with the drive shafts.
bob.


This I know, that is why I asked. So to those of you who did this mod does this mod put too much angle on your CV axles?

You could have the front differental modded to lower it. I haven't done it. But heres another link
about raising a 4x4 Luv
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=16515

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