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 Post subject: Lowered the back today
PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:24 pm 
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Location: Whittier, (So). Cal.
I bought a 2" kit at Auto Zone last night and bolted it on today. I lowered the front some more to keep it even and removed the rear rubber stopers. I had already removed the front stopers a long time ago.
I measured from the ground to the fender well right up the center of the wheel. I'm at 25" on the front and 25 1/4" on the rear.

I know, it's not like dragging frame and being bagged, but it's a daily driver that can put back to stock if needed. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:28 pm 
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Sweet how much was the kit? And for the front did you jus loosen the torsion bars?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:34 pm 
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Just loosened the bars on the front. The kit was about $27. They had 1, 2 or 3" kits. The U bolts a too long and I need to cut them off for cleanliness. I just got tired of laying on my back today and left them long for now.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:44 pm 
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Location: Salem OR.
looks great.. i left mine long for the same reason , still need to cut them one day but its been 3 years :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:49 pm 
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Thanks. :lol: I almost painted them black to hide them better. Because it'll probably be 3 years for me too. :lol: :oops:


Hey Cat, What did you do with the center bolt through the leafs? I removed them, but was thinking I should get longer ones and put them in.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:18 pm 
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i left it, my block had a space there so they wouldnt hit the bolts.. had to file the nipple down to get them into the axle plate though

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:20 am 
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How does it ride? Looks great 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:56 pm 
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It's a little rough up front, and the stoppers are already out. The rear is great. I just have to slow down and cruise the lowrider now. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:03 pm 
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Looking good!

Before I bagged mine I lowered mine by cranking down on the torsion bar and it rode like a tank. After about a week of driving it I couldnt stand it so I re-indexed my torsion bars and it rode like it did before I lowered it. I would recommend it to anybody who doesnt like the harsh ride.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:47 pm 
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Looks good! I want to lower mine now! Thanks! :)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:14 pm 
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alot of the time when you get that low and take the stopper out there is a edge of metal that needs to be trimmed out for your ride to cum back i did that on mine after i slammed it and it still rides good

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:36 pm 
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make sure and weld up the bottom of the shock tower because it's connected to the upper control arm and is a structural point. I had to cut mine also and cut the lower control arm supports out alittle also, But mine is tucking 20" wheels and sporting a SBC.

Craig


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:04 pm 
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Dan wrote:
Looking good!

Before I bagged mine I lowered mine by cranking down on the torsion bar and it rode like a tank. After about a week of driving it I couldnt stand it so I re-indexed my torsion bars and it rode like it did before I lowered it. I would recommend it to anybody who doesnt like the harsh ride.


hey dan what do you mean by re-indexed your torsion bars? do you mean raised it back up?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:34 pm 
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By re-indexing I mean that the lowered stance stays the same but it rides like it did before it was lowered. If u look where the torsion bar connects to the lower control arm there are splines. What u do is make a mark on the torsion bar and the control arm and then slide it out. Once its out take the control arm and raise it up, as u do this count how many splines there are between the control arms mark and the torsion bars mark. On mine I did three or four.

When a torsion bars adjuster bolt is loosened it lowers the spring rate which makes it easier for the suspension to bottom out. So if u were to tighten it up it would raise the truck increase the spring rate and make for a harsh ride as well. So by reindexing you keep the torsion bar in the factory position but u change the position of the front suspension. You can do this to 4x4s as well u just go the opposite way. It would be easier for me to explain how I did this with pictures and I would gladly make an article for u guys if your interested?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:53 pm 
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Thanks for the info. I guess i never thought of re indexing. i thought is was more based on the weight of the truck up front. Currently my truck is lowered to were I have about 1.5" of travel left in the front suspension before I bottom out. So you are saying I can maintain that same front suspension travel and have a higher spring rate on my torsion bars and maybe not bottom out as easily if I am following you correctly......

BTW your C notching thread is great

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#1 1980 Black 2wd, #2 1980 Blue 2wd, #3 1980 Black 4x4 #4 1980 black 2wd Long bed #5 1979 black 4x4 #6 1977 red 2WD
pics
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:47 pm 
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I re-indexed mine on my drive-on rack. Just lifted the front up a littlebit, screwed the adjusters out all the way, slid the bars out, set the car down ALL THE WAY. Actually had to get a helper to lift her to get the jack out, then slid the bars back in and screwed'em down. Looks great and rides even better. Tucks the Cragers very nicely on a bump.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:59 pm 
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I'll look into the re indexing.

What reindexing will do is... give you the stock amount of spring stiffness but with the truck at the lowered stance. Same if you lift it. It will give you the stock amount of spring stiffness but with the truck lifted.

When you lower the truck, you are loosening the torsion bar. Your taking the spring pressure out of it. If this were a leaf spring set up, it's like taking leafs out. The truck lowers, but it is now much weaker of a spring.

To lift it you add leafs... or tighten the torsion bar. The truck goes up, but you are as stiff as a 1 1/2 ton instead of a 1/2 ton.

By re indexing you are putting the highth where you want, but placing the original amount of tension on the torsion bar..................................
How'd I do??? :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 3:47 am 
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gs11x wrote:
Thanks for the info. I guess i never thought of re indexing. i thought is was more based on the weight of the truck up front. Currently my truck is lowered to were I have about 1.5" of travel left in the front suspension before I bottom out. So you are saying I can maintain that same front suspension travel and have a higher spring rate on my torsion bars and maybe not bottom out as easily if I am following you correctly......

BTW your C notching thread is great

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Thanks!

Rondog yours blew my explanation out of the water lol.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 1:55 am 
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Well I did the re-indexing today. I already had the front stoppers out. I set the frame on stands, jacked up the control arm until I found the zero tension spot on the bar. Removed the bar, jacked up the control arm as high as it would go and reinserted the bar. Put the adjusting bolt back in and set the truck down. Then did some measuring and adjusting and got all 4 fender wells at 25 1/2 inches. It rides nice and does seem to have more tension on the torsion bars. I'm pleased. 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 3:19 pm 
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How much travel do you have left in your front suspension before you bottom out?

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Did a v8 conversion in 1981 on my '76 luv
Current Fleet
#1 1980 Black 2wd, #2 1980 Blue 2wd, #3 1980 Black 4x4 #4 1980 black 2wd Long bed #5 1979 black 4x4 #6 1977 red 2WD
pics
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/


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