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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:36 pm 
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I am wanting a lowered stance of my Luv and need some other builders input on how to acheive it.

This is the height I would like in the rear. They owner doesn't list tire/wheel size and I am unable to contact him.

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I have a set of 15 x 8 Weld Pro Star wheels and P255-60-15 tires.

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Will this close the wheel gap or do you think I will need to drop it with blocks?

Anyone even use blocks?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:11 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Well, I might as well ask the question first. You do know that those wheels will not fit on your stock axles right?? They have a 5 lug pattern, and your stock axle has a 6 lug pattern.

That said, I have used blocks on a couple different (2x4, & 4x4) trucks with no problems.

Good luck.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:15 pm 
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Yeah. I know that. Thanks though.

I have a Chevy 7.5" 10 bolt posi rear end 3.73 gearing, 5 lug 4.75 spread.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:57 pm 
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I run a 255/60/15 on a 15x8 4" back space with stock axle width . The only change is no overload spring.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 9:42 pm 
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I have just about that stance. I run 26 x 10.5 with two inch lowering blocks I do have a 9'' but I used the stock leaf springs. I also removed the overload spring a one of the leafs.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:44 pm 
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hotrod80 wrote:
I run a 255/60/15 on a 15x8 4" back space with stock axle width . The only change is no overload spring.


Just slipping out the overload spring on each side? I'd prefer to not use blocks if that will do the trick.

Any special trick to getting the overload spring out?

My backspacing is 3.5. We'll see how it fits under the wheel well.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 5:34 pm 
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How much drop can you expect to get from removing the overload spring? How much from the overload spring and one more leaf spring removed? Also, which is the best leaf spring to remove after you've removed the bottom overload spring? Does it matter? Thanks for any info.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 4:47 pm 
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Not sure how much you will get from the leafs only. But my truck sits almost identical to the pic and I have 2'' lowering blocks. I removed the overload and the bottom spring. I also built my lowering blocks because any type that I have seen will eventually break.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:56 pm 
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This is what you need to do. :P

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:51 pm 
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How much block can you run in the rear without driveline problems?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 1:05 pm 
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I would think you could run alot. As long as you keep you pinion angle. But I would beware of lowering blocks.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:57 am 
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im doing 3in. blocks in the rear, and 17in rims, and i tuck.
but they will only be in for a month or two. till i get the time to put my c notch in, and airbags


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:27 pm 
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Ok so i have my blocks in, but when i try and drive my whole rear end moves. so my truck drive slightly sideways. anyone know how to fix that


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:32 am 
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The reason you driving sideways is the blocks are not stable on the springs and letting the rear housing move around make sure you have the axle in square then retorq the u-bolts you may have to do this two or tree times to git every thing tight enough to stay put but work at it you ore not the only one to have this problem,ask me how i know.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:15 am 
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Also Double Check To Make Sure Your Blocks Are On The Dail Pin On The Leaf Spring. Then As TJ Has Already Said, Tightening, Tightening, and Possible Re Tighten. May Be The Answer

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 4:27 pm 
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tj white what happened


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:38 pm 
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What do you mean what happened :?:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 10:57 pm 
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tj white wrote:
The reason you driving sideways is the blocks are not stable on the springs and letting the rear housing move around make sure you have the axle in square then retorq the u-bolts you may have to do this two or tree times to git every thing tight enough to stay put but work at it you ore not the only one to have this problem,ask me how i know.


Think He Was Asking How Do You Know

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 12:00 am 
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yeah


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 2:21 am 
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Its not hard to reset leaf springs to lower it properly. Blocks are a rough option.


All you need is a press to reset leaf springs.


The reason suspension places charge a fair bit to reset them is because its a time consuming job.


Once you know 100% what ride height your after I would suggest finding acess to a press and doing it properly yourself.

All you do is pull the spring pack apart and reset the curve of the springs so they are flatter to suit the lower height. Thats the simple description. Doing that makes it lower and also makes the spring a little longer.

Removing leaves will soften the back end, not to much of an issue in a non work luv.

Lowering blocks are bad because they create an extra point of potential movement. They also act as a lever to an extent.
The only good thing about them is that the std shocker is the right length for the fully extended travel.


Bob.

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