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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:09 am 
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Ooorrr cut the bolts off close to the nuts

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 9:05 pm 
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that could be done.....but to go with the unwritten rule of 3 threads showing past the nut I think it is best to protect them somewhat. But cutting them to length installed like they are now is better than long.

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:00 pm 
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thanks- will do

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:43 pm 
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How about trying 4 inner tie rod ends (2 of each side of course) off an 67 nova. That is what I actually found out my rod ends where. I didn't know what they was off of until I ran the numbers I just knew the rest of the parts where off a S10 pickup and thats what my father claimed the rod ends where off of as well.

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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 9:49 pm 
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BlackLuv80 wrote:
How about trying 4 inner tie rod ends (2 of each side of course) off an 67 nova. That is what I actually found out my rod ends where. I didn't know what they was off of until I ran the numbers I just knew the rest of the parts where off a S10 pickup and thats what my father claimed the rod ends where off of as well.


You have a location (online ) where I can find these or can i buy cheap ones from Checker Auto parts store locally??

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 5:21 pm 
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Found them at AutoZone $18.99 each.

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 10:22 pm 
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Yes it is tight but it can mounted to the underside of the control arm and have full range of motion, However I like you idea of mounting the ball joint on the top side of the control arm. I was planning on running drop spindles however I believe this way would lower the front of my truck to the desired hight I am looking for.

As far as the whole shipping incidents I still am clueless of what happen they have been three different sets sent your way over the last couple of months and they have all gone missing apparently. However the post office claims they "all have been sent somewhere" and the little punk at the counter can tell me where they went and thats not counting the set that where sent back.

Far as the Rod ends....

Image

DIMENSION A= 4.000 in.; DIMENSION B= 5/8-18; DIMENSION C= 0.516 in.; DIMENSION D= 0.627 in.

They run between $14 - $46.99 a piece at most of your local speed shops and parts stores such as Advance, Autozone, O'rillys, Parts America and even Summit.

The sleeves weren't but $8 - $19 If you need them as well.



Far as my truck the front suspension is done. Braces welded and front core support reinstalled. Still haven't gotten to the back half. But I am ready to start doing body work and building the engine.

On another note I am getting another Luv off a buddy of mine I will be preforming the s10 swap on it as well and road test it within the next couple of weeks.

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:34 am 
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Maybe that is why it is best send stuff UPS and get a tracking number.
Want plates for mine or my s-10 is going bye bye soon rotors and all and gonna give up on a swap.

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 5:11 am 
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You can get a delivery confirmation number from the post office and track with that.

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:13 am 
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Return reciept requested . This means they have to sign for the package .


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:16 pm 
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I have sent hundreds of things through the mail for ebay. USPS Tracking and signature confirmation has been virtually problem free.

Regardless I did the dual inner Nova tie rod ends and it's a smooth fit. It will work. Pictures in a day or so.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:04 pm 
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Cool, glad things are coming around. Still would like a set of plates. Got my truck back up and running today. Now it runs good for awhile and then quits like it is out of gas but isn't. After awhile it starts again. New fuel line, filter and all. Wonder if I have a electtric problem in my distributor and gets hot and quits. It has quit on me 4 x's now and has left me stranded. Guess if it gets me down the track is all that matters.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:52 pm 
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I can make you a set of plates once my car is up and running.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:29 am 
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Litmup check the module in your dizzy as if there is no silicone grease under it it will burn up and can cause the problem you are having also check and make sure you connection to the dizzy is good and tight.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:24 am 
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Wil do. Great on the plates too.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:30 pm 
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Took the cap off and took the module out from under the rotor. Wa a lot of white silicone looking stuff but not smooth. A lot of metal spaces showing. Wonder if I should just replace it. The whole unit is a new pro comp but is a year or so old. The cap and rotor look great. Not sure about what is in the top of the cap. Didn't open it up.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:29 pm 
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I give these updates to aid anyone doing this conversion. The problems I encounter can be hurtled by the next individual doing this.

Tie rod ends. The 2 1967 Nova inside tie rod ends used in conjunction with the S10 sleeve did not work. Too short. I am leary of using a tie rod end when yuo only have 3 threads INSIDE the sleeve. :).

The solution is to use 1 S10 tie rod end and 1 67 Nova inside tie rod end with the S10 sleeve. Perfect fit. Picture tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 6:28 am 
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Way to go Hyper. Wanting them plates when ya get yours up and going.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 8:52 am 
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Pics as promised. Still need to trim down those bolts I know.

Image[/img]

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 11:20 am 
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Damn slick lookin to me. Good job

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