LUVTruck.com

Did anyone send out the needed parts to him yet?

yes I believe that mytmouz did.

A.j.

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Yes, I did...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

looking forward to see how this turns out. It sound pretty cool

this could be great option for those looking to upgrade away from the torsion bars and other issues. For those that take thier truck to the track it seems to me, the average guy, you could drop a few pounds of the front by switching to coilovers and this setup vs torsion bars and stock pieces.

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Tact is for people not funny enough to be sarcastic.

Im assuming the torsion bars mount directly to the lower arms on these trucks? pics anyone?

If so I will have the ones for bags or coil overs out first, then if theres a market Ill do some for torsion bars.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

I might be interested down the road on these if they work out, would LUV to get rid of my torsions, plus I am with Karl and hope they dont push the wheels out any farther.

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RIP R.J.B.

The torsion bars go right into the lower control arm on the rear with a splined end on it and a bolt on the front threading into a mounting or holding pin. Not sure of the right name for it.

According to the other swap that has been done the front wheels only set out 1/2 on each side. I don't think that would even be noticeable hardly.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
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really for A arms it wouldnt matter, the 1/2 is only add for ball joint clearance on the plates. could be perfectly centered in a aftermarket arm.

A.j.

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I got the stock parts on my front porch Friday.

Ive taken them out of the box and Ive been looking them over. From what I see this is as I suspected an Isuzu design. The uppers should be no problem. Ill be able to make some pretty easy. They will most likely look like the Nissan HB upper or Isuzu uppers on my site now. They will use an S-10 upper balljoint and as I have said before the S-10 upper and lower balljoints fit S-10 spindles obviously but also Toyota stock or drop spindles and also Mazda drop spindles. So the uppers are a done deal.

The lowers are a different issue. Im sure I can make them work fine but Im really gonna need more pics of the underside of a LUV so I can see what kind of clearance I have to work with. Id like to know how much room there is between the arms and the steering and also the arms and whatever is on the other side of the arm. I assume the LUV is a front steer. If so I would like to know how much clearance there is toward the back. Id like to eliminate the strut rods and make these an A shaped arm. If I cant do that Ill make them work with plates or tubes and plates. The good thing is if I have to use any plate I have access to AR500 and AR508 armor plate. I can make these literally bulletrpoof.

I can also make these work with stock balljoints if anyone wants that. I can make them for Mustang II spindles or dirt track spindles with screw in balljoints. Its just a matter of what the steering mounts up to best I guess.

btw heres a pic of what I completed today. I made the jig, and the arms all in one day. Its a 99-06 GM fullsize upper set thats made 1" shorter than stock. let me know what you think.



peace

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

The Mustang II spindle option sounds nice. I'll do some more pics, but some others may also need to so we have a variety of them...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

Well I was at Simleys Racing the other day and they offer a few different spindles. Most of them work with screw in balljoints.

Speedwaymotors.com also sells these and Im sure afcoracing.com and several others do as well.

The thing is that any arm can be made with any balljoints pretty much. Its a matter of what the steering will mount up to and where everything is in the end. if you have bumpsteer or not, if its rides and drives correct or not. theres several factors there to deal with. I feel that if you use an S-10 or Toyota spindle you wont be too far off. That probably goes for a Mustang II or GM metric spindle as well. But id stay away from any others if it were mine.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

MII spindles would be a good option as well due to the large amount of brake its out there for them.

I would offer to get those pictures you wanted but my chassis is missing the spindles so I would have no way of showing what you want. The steering box is in the front. Do you know if the S10 ball joint will fit the MII spindle? Thanks for being so interested in doing this.

Im not sure on the MII spindle fitting the S-10 balljoints. The thing is I can make these with pretty much any balljoints.

what I need to see on the truck is the lower arm under the truck where it meets the frame and how much clearance there is down there.

BTW heres a set of 79-95 Toyota arms I just made today. let me know what you guys think.



peace

_________________
Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

I sent you some more pics via pm...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

ok heres what I have figured so far...

first heres a pic of the stock arm with some lines on it. Forgive me I did it in the only thing I have which is paint.



I need to know the distance from where the arm bolts up out to the steering at its closest point, and in the back from where the arm mounts up back to whatever is behind it. On MYTMOUZs truck theres a tube back there, Im assuming its a header.

I need to know if theres 11" or 12" in between those two points. Id also like to know what diameter the hole is in the frame. I need to know if theres a rubber bushing in there and if the rubber bushing has an outer sleeve what diameter is the hole if it were taken out.

Now look at this pic. The orange is the frame, the pink is the threaded tube that holds the arms, and the black is the arm. the blue is the bag plate and yellow is the bolts.



If theres 11 or 12 inches in there I can make an arm like that. let me know what you think. BTW Im lining up a local truck to go look at in person.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

I could make it narrower if I had to.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

I'll try to get the dimensions for you. The orange that you have drawn out is the frame attachment point. There is nothing on the outside of the arm, so it may need to be narrower to keep from flexing, IMO.

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FIAA!

SFPP!

Im trying to get the A shaped arm so I can eliminate the strut rods. These can be pretty narrow but the tube needs to be welded in pretty solid.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

On the bottom arm wht is going to be in the middle to keep the it from moving from fron to back and wearing out if you make the tube arm that wide with the bar through the middle. Since my truck is still apart with the coil overs maybe I can get you some pics completey today since there is no motor in yet.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!