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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:46 am 
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demon86 wrote:
will this setup work if i only wanna upgrade to tubular a arms and coilovers and 5 lug spindles??

thanks


That is the plan. I am going to guinea pig the install on mine as soon as they are ready...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:12 am 
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man im itching for these! I cant wait!

A.j.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:02 pm 
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mytmouz wrote:
demon86 wrote:
will this setup work if i only wanna upgrade to tubular a arms and coilovers and 5 lug spindles??

thanks


That is the plan. I am going to guinea pig the install on mine as soon as they are ready...


thanks! cant wait for them to be ready...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:57 pm 
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well tonight im making the templates for the coil over mounts and also bag plates for those guys. Ill get them drawn in CAD and cut tomorrow so I can weld the coil over tabs on. Ill decide here in a bit if its going to be actual tabs or tubes.

Ill update again later tonight.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:37 am 
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well from the look and placement of the stock shock hole the best idea will be a tube mount for the coil overs. flat plates would be oddly shaped. So Ill cut and turn the tubes and go from there on these. updates as soon as I have something.

for you bag guys, I have the template made for the bag plate. Ill have it drawn and cut today probably.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:51 pm 
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hey it kyle...so what day do u think u will have them shiped out to me?? and a re you gonna have the pux of the bag mounts put up on here??

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:24 pm 
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Hey Kyle glad to see you on here. Folks Kyle is so ready for a set of these arms he preordered weeks ago. Its people like him, Shawny B and MTMZ that have pushed me to work on these instead of putting them off until I got caught up.

Anyway heres the latest info...(Kyle read on man...)

Tonight I worked out the tubes for the coil overs. The tubes from end to end will be 5" with a 1.250" gap along the arm centerline, that will hold the coilover. Thats the line from the center of the bushing to the center of the balljoint cup. anyway the bolt will be 6" long. I know thats long but thats what it will take. Heres a drawing in paint of the bushing on the end and also of the tubes for the coilover.

Image

the black is the poly bushings, the red is the bushing tube and the dark blus is the tabs that will go up to the frame. the light blue is the coil over tubes. The yellow is the stock frame bushing. heres the pic of the same arm with purple as the bag plate. the cuts across the ends will be curved in the final version. I have it in the list to be cut at work.

Image


Kyle as soon as I have the bag plates Ill get them ready. I have to finish some bushings for Shawny Bs rear independent setup and then Im taking them and these arms out to his place. I will then test fit the arm, double check the bag placement and also make templates for the tabs that will hold the end bushing (shown in red above). I will then draw the plates in CAD, get them cut and send yours to you.

MTMZ yours will be much easier. Ill just have to get the strut rod tabs cut or send some universal ones and go from there.

I will be making the match to this arm and one more set this week to satisfy the one set for Kyle and the set for MTMZ. I have others interested and anyone else thats interested let me know ASAP as Im about to order bushings for these.

Id like to build several sets at once but not until I know these are right. Now I do know they will fit the truck since I have the stock lowqer here. all I need to confirm is the camber angles being acceptable and make the bushing templates.

I dont need to test drive these on a truck because I am within parameters of the stock arms, these are stronger and I have made tube arms for many different vehicles before and know what needs to do what. ok so all that said.... any questions??

thanks for reading all this...

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:09 pm 
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I have a ? How hard is the armor plate to drill? I am going to install a stock s10 spindle per our agreement. I also have a set of Pinto spindles that are drilled to an s10 lower ball joint, top is stock. (May be easier to just ream the spindle) They look promising...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:44 am 
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armor plate cannot be drilled at all. what part are you talking about drilling? the upper balljoint plate? those can be made from mild steel.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:09 pm 
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Just kicking around using a pinto joint in the top arm after I use the S10 joint for the mock up. I can ream the pinto spindle out to the S10 joint size I guess...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:49 pm 
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S-10 balljoints as well as almost any GM balljoint has a weird taper angle. Most tapered drills are different than this taper but will work.

I can make the upper balljoint plates with reg steel and you can drill new holes or I can do the pinto balljoint cups or whatever. just decide and let me know.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:01 pm 
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do you kno if thses will allow me to lay flat out on 20"s or not?? with stock s10 spindles or will i have to go ahead and get drop spindles

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:05 pm 
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and does shawtyb have a spot whree he has the build up of his truck...im interested in seeing his set up on the rear...thought bout irs but dont kno much bout it...cause some to find out imma have to narrow my rear frame and axel down to tuck the rear tires and all...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:38 pm 
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Man Id have to ask Shawny B if he has pics. I know he had it down to the bare frame so i bet he has it somewhere.

On the arms Id have to say you will probably need a drop spindle. Theres a possibility of laying out on a stock one but Im not sure yet.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:49 pm 
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al right i was just wondering cause i have a 2000 extreme at the house that im parting out and i was gonna pull the spindles and hubs off of it for now..

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:11 pm 
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DHPmike wrote:
S-10 balljoints as well as almost any GM balljoint has a weird taper angle. Most tapered drills are different than this taper but will work.

I can make the upper balljoint plates with reg steel and you can drill new holes or I can do the pinto balljoint cups or whatever. just decide and let me know.


You can send the S10, I have a tapered reamer I got from the roundy round guys for the G body stuff...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:36 am 
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cool we are going in the right direction now.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:22 pm 
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whats the update on the bagged lowers??

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:11 pm 
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So you can check out some of my pics on dfwminis.net, and also on myspace.com/2lo4u and the luv will be in my vehics section of pictures. with doing a little cutting i do believe that you could lay on 20's but you would need to have like a 30 series tire for the front. As far as bag placement for the front i think im going to have to do some cantilever action, due to the lack of space for an air bag. well any ? just holla at me


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 pm 
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kool thank..tuesday imm going to my buddies tire shop and were bolting some 20s on the back to find out weather or not imma have to narow the frame and rear end down or not..and then as soonas the loweres get to me imma get the rockers off goa head and body drop the cab to match the bed and then start choppin the top but after the bodydrop im going back to test fit the 20s on the front i kno imma have to tub the hell outta the fire wall but ill find out soom hopefully i have some pix of the build up of my truck...

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