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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:08 pm 
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BlackLuv80 wrote:
Cool Thanx For The Imput

Been Also Told Something Close To Tha Same From Blue Meanie

Blue Meanie wrote:
Hi...
Im thinking that the marking reads KB30LU-P. KB series trucks were sold with Isuzu emblems all over the world. And im thinking that they were KB30 series trucks. LU would seem to stand for LUV. The P is for Pick up.
This would make sense to distinguish frame types as they go to the assy line. KB's and LUV trucks were identical vehicles except for the Chevrolet LUV emblems. General Motors had controlling stock intrest in Isuzu Motors during the 70's. Shipping them to the U.S.A. with Chevy nameplates was the norm.



Dont know about the 30 bit. They were all KB20's in the Luv body shape. The pup shape(d luv) was a 20 something right thru till 87 and the body change to TF.

The Isuzu KB's only had single headlights and the Luv's here had twins. So yeah the front grille etc was different.
They were sold here as a Chev till 76 or maybe 77.

Bob.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:20 pm 
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Hmm Mines A 80..So I Dunno

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:53 pm 
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Diving right into the conversion.....

Finally got the upper ball join out with an air hammer + a cutting wheel in my grinder at the very end.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:01 pm 
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Congrats...I Know That Alone Is A Hard Job

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:24 pm 
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this is freekin sweet blackluv!!! i do alignments at work everyday where i mechanic. i see nothing wrong with what you have goin there. especially for a drag truck which i have. only other thing you may have your cousin check since you drive on the street is SAI ( steering axis inclanation), but its not adjustable so it really doesnt matter much.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/glo ... f-748a.htm

this setup will work perfect on mine, and i found it just in time to. i maybe selling my vega this week and will be starting on my 9 inch rear swap and front 5 lug swap.

i added you to my messenger. wiked1chevy355@hotmail.com
wanna ask ya a few more things.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:10 pm 
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Thanks Again, Here Is I Guess A Very Poor Example of A Very Rough Example of SAI

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This I Know Is Nowhere Near A Exsact Angle Nore The Best Angle For A Picture I Will Try To Get A Better Pic and Idea.

But You Could Slightly Change The SAI With The SPC Performace Control Arms. They Probably Make Something That Will Work With A LUV.

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I Need To Do Some More Research But From What Jack, A Local Guy Who Is A Suspension Exspert He Says It Looks Like It Should Work "Lovely" He Doesn't Agree With Me Doing Away With The Torsin Bars. But He Seems To Like The Idea and Has Bee Working With It With Me

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 6:56 pm 
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count me in for one of those plates if it works out for ya!!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:15 am 
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I don't see any thing wrong with eliminating the torsion bars and going to coil overs.I have been thinking of the coil overs for my truck but i have built every thin around the torsion bars any way and it works good so now it would be for a little weight savings and it looks good.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:28 am 
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I am going to have read the whole post again, but!

Why could you not use the whole S-10 setup. Cross member and all. Would it require the steering setup too? steering box, collum, draglink and the other stuff too?

I guess the posts way requires less work. A mustang II steering, suspension requires most of this setup replaced IFIRC.

Richard

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:58 pm 
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PapaG wrote:

Why could you not use the whole S-10 setup. Cross member and all. Would it require the steering setup too? steering box, collum, draglink and the other stuff too?

Richard


I would say to that that you will need an absolutely flat floor to keep the LUV frame square in order to fit that into a LUV chassis and keep all geometry correct and workable.
The Upper a-arms need to be aligned appropriately to start with before you could continue fiiting it into that frame. I am not sure, yet... if the widths are proportionate to a LUV frame.
Frame off center aligment outwards towards the fender, I am not sure yet if the a-arms are too long to fit in the proper locations.
Then you'll need to consider steering components forward if that they will fit within the area given.
:?

Has an S10 front suspension ever been fitted into a LUV frame before?

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Last edited by RPOZ11 on Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:50 pm 
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Granted most of us are not master fabricators, people had to start fabricating clip-suspension swaps. There is no such thin as a perfectly flat floor. Machinist flat surfaces are big bucks.

Plenty of Mustang II swaps, other swaps. I did a 54 Chevy car into my 39 Chevy coupe. No I must admit it was mostly bolt in, it was like every thing was made to bolt on. it was mostly keeping the front and rear axles square.

It would have be tried to see if it would work. Measure, Measure and Measure. I am going to see if I can get a s10 frame and suspension from my junk yard man, or see if I can get the front and rear setups.

I doo have a front syspension from a late 70's-80''s chevy front end we cut out of a truck that was wrecked.

Don't get me wrong, this swap that has been talked about here, Just wondering out load about what may wook. I am looking to hear about the protype test.

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Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:08 pm 
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If you wanted to graph the whole set up off a s10 you could do it. It would still be fairly easy. but it would require more fabrication.

The s10 frame itself is slightly wider so they would have to be some cutting of the cross member, but I like the removable cross member of the factory luv frame, love the access to the oil pan if need be.

You would need a nearly perfect flat floor far as level and flat. plus you would want to measure the distance of your frame and other reference points from the ground to check to see if it is square.

and actually if you where going with a mustang II/pinto (rack and pinion) set up this would work perfect.

Updates:

front end is completed minus coil overs
have the brake lines, they came in the mail here the other day
have fabricated some odd and end pieces I need
have frame mounts
have solid engine and tanny mounts
have a mock up engine and tranny sitting in the truck
have the 4 link set up ready to be welded in
have trans am rear disc breaks mounted
have lever style "pull handle" parking or e-break handle
have drilled and slotted rotors ordered for front and rear
(using a duel lug pattern s10 rotor in the front and 4x4 s10 rotors in the rear)
the frame has been cleaned down and ready for paint
( which will be done once all the welding is finished)

I have some updated pics that I will try to post pretty soon

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:29 pm 
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Well hope something comes up with the whole s-10 front. I have an extra s -10 here waiting to junk or use it on my luv for the front conversion. Just not a fabricator here. I don't want to mess up my luv by cutting it up until I know what works.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:49 pm 
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Well the only cutting is the 4 holes drilled on either side on the upper control arms, and the slight clearancing on the lower control arms. You would be able (if you really wanted to) put everything back factory and the only thing noticeable is the holes on the upper control arms.

Really there is no need to be a fabricator to do this, the only fabrication was the adapter plate. The rest is pretty easy to do. Just mainly bolting and unbolting.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:07 pm 
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Interested in seeing your emergency brake setup as I had to ditch mine with the cutting of the firewall.

You have bucket seats I imagine using a pull brake

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 8:03 am 
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Hmmm would be nice to have a step by step instruction plan of an entire s 10 front swap.
So why can't you just cut the entire s 10 front frame off and narrow the crossmember and re weld it to the luv frame A arms and all.
Just not that easy I guess.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 8:16 am 
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BlackLuv, I read this thread through, and still don't know what's going on. I'm not too sharp on the whole tie-rod ball-joint stuff. I just want to ask you if you can sum it all up in plain English: What are you trying to do?

Also, most of the links to the photos don't work back on pages 3 or 4. I didn't check everything...

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 1:05 pm 
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To make a long story short I am using a s10 spindle and rotor set up to convert my luv to 5 lug and also open the door to being able to buy better after market parts for better breaking and of course s10 2" drop spindles.

I know the old links don't work I relocated most of them to organize my photo bucket. check out the bottom of page 5 in this tread for all the new links for everything.

Make any sense John?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 2:54 pm 
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Oh yes, and smart, too. I just didn't see page 5 yet :o and so you can make an improvement, that's great. I did catch the part about it still looks the same. I like that. It's not something I see myself doing but who knows? When I understand it more I might want it too. One thing is when this LUV gets going, I'm not going to want to tear it apart for a long, long time if it keeps on rolling. I know it needs to brake though, ha ha ha. I just need the transportation.

Your job looks like it would take some time. I know it's still being developed. How about an estimated installation time period. What would your kit take to install?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 6:30 pm 
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Well, Far as time you could do it in a days work easy with the aid of two jack stands and a jack.

All it consist of are.

The Two Plates
Two S10 Spindles
Two S10 Tie Rod Ends
Two S10 Upper Ball Joints
Two S10 Lower Ball Joints
Four 7/16" Tread Bolts Roughly 4" Long
Four 7/16| Tread Bolts Roughly 4 1/2 - 5" Long
and Break Lines

While I perfecting everything along the way I have also been making odd and ends such as mounts and researching and test everything. I have also been working here in the shop on customer cars so I haven't been able to put as much time as I would like to into it.

But maybe it will all pay off in the end, If not I am going with "plan B" and completely fabricating the control arms from scratch, which I hope and doubt it will come to that.

I am waiting on a friend to get here to the shop so I can use his tig to weld the 4 link up. He said he may be by monday.

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