Seems like extra work to me for perfection.
The tinter in the next bay did nice flat 3 window trucks in about 1/2 an hour regular.
Crank the window down slightly.
Lay oversize film on clean wet glass leaving extra overlap at the bottom.
Slice to match the upper glass profile then raise the window as far as possible without crinkling yer upper tint edge with the window rubber seal thing.
Then use a bondo squeegee to turn down the rubber seal along the base of the glass towards the innards of the door.
From this " I\ " to this " h " (if that makes sense?)
Use yer razor to cut the lower edge of the film below the level the rubber seal will be covering when it returns to it's proper seat/sealing position.
Working out from the center with the yellow bondo spreader squeegee out the bubbles & this next step is crucial -
DO NOT ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN FOR 2 OR 3 DAYS
TO ALLOW THE MOISTURE/SOAP under the film to dry completely.
The first time you move the glass upwards the rubber will pop back into a merging looking orientation (from an overhead view) instead of the cloverleaf kind of configuration you forced it down into to get the extra margin.
I know you Luv yer truck off-Rd & you could do the whole pane in the shed or basement or garage depending & let it sit on the bench for a few days to get nice & dry before swapping out the glass in yer daily but no one will ever see the thin strip of untinted glass behind your door trim panel.
I've been pinched by window regulators enuff times to not like 'em & I wouldn't take out the glass if I didn't REALLY have to but that's just me & my $0.02
PS - Congrats on the job upgrade
