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Ok. I threw on the 15 x 8s with the 3.5 backspacing just to guage the stance. I lowered the rear with blocks 2". No leafs taken ut. I dont think I can swing it... 1 bump and my fenders crumple.

I threw on some Lakewood traction bars and realize that they're hitting the front leaf bracket. Bracket doesnt move up and back as it's rivited to the lowest spring. Traction bar rests ON the bracket. Any idea how I can get around this?

With all that equipment on my back axle my rear end looks like FrankenLuv. I know there are only 2 lugs on the rear wheel. It's just allowing me to free up my jacks for the frot end work.

Pictures

You Will Have To Remove The Leaf and or Bracket. For The Traction Bar To Work Properly.

Far As The Bars Themselves Sometimes You May Even Have To Round The Outer Edges To Fit Larger Tires I.E. 10.5 Slicks.

Your Truck Looks Good. I Like The Looks of Them Wheels on There. You Need To Get Some With The Correct Back Spacing.

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Maybe that bolt can come out allowing the arm to swing up under load. I'll look tomorrow.

Shawn- Pulling out the front spindles now. Have one upper ball joint nut that's being stubborn. Impact wrench aint getting that nut to loosen. WD40'd it and I'll go at it in the morning again with better light.

I Used A Hammer And Chisel To Knock The Nut Around Because I Had The Same Problem. I Have Also Heard of People Blow Torching The Nuts off. Sounds Painful I Know But It Must Be Done...lol

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well all those are there for is for keepin axle wrap to a minimum for a sotck application, and a mount for the e-brake cable. and by the looks of your e brake cable, i dont think youll be needing the bracket. ive always taken it off on all the trucks ive worked on. hell i dont even have em on my stock trucks.

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

Those brake cables saw the business end of a grinder when I put in the 10 bolt. Coulndt get the plastic clip to go out of the drum so in a fit of anger i chopped them.

Yeah It Was A Pain For Me To Remove The Cable Aswell...I Actually Had To Take off The Front Shoe Just To Get the Cable out.

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I just cut it off with a torch, you want to keep the trac bar as close to the spring as possible.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

There is no problem you take the bottom leaf out and the blocks then you adjust your ride hight accordingly.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

O/T, TJ, your avatar is way too big. It push's the message over too far.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Lose either the bracket or the over load . The bushing should be under the spring eye and the larger the gap from the snubber to spring eye the more shock to the tire . A snubber against the spring will be the least violent on launch .